WD Pro
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You may already know that there is a long thread about the diff bolts breaking. There is some shear stress across the threaded area in the OEM design. It is more likely to happen from drag racing launches.
In my car, I added aluminum sleeves to take up the 2mm gap, plus Steeda black support inserts. This leverages the strength of the solid shank area of the OEM bolt. I did not want to go full monty with drilled bosses and a through-bolt solution.
Sorry for your loss.
Thanks bothWow, I've never seen someone break one on a stock car before. Must have been a faulty bolt. The crappy design doesn't help either. It's a lot of work to replace it with a "through bolt" kit but it's probably worth doing, since the dealer will probably take 200 years to repair that under warranty.
I already have the bolt sleeves and the Steeda inserts, I just hadn’t fitted them yet …
It might actually be a blessing in disguise that I had delayed fitment. I’m pretty sure that bolt was loose from new, probably already weakened and probably would have broken trying to remove it - then I would have been left with the issue rather than ford.
I’ve already spoken to the master tech and the service team and I have a date to take the car in.
They are pretty good and will work with me so I’m trying to make the best out of a bad situation :
- Whilst the exhaust is off - chop it for the H pipe.
- Strip the exhaust back to stainless (rather than the black crap we get on the euros).
- Whilst the cradle is dropped - Steeda red bushes.
- Stainless bolt sleeves.
- Steeda subframe supports.
- Steeda subframe alignment.
I don’t think I can swing it to drill for though bolts, but I don’t know if I want to and I suspect I won’t need them anyway.
I’m suspecting an alignment will be needed afterwards so depending on who they use, maybe I could pay an upgrade to get a fancy (rather than basic) job done.
I’m just going to have to see how this all pans out and keep my fingers crossed …
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