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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

TicTocTach

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Got her back from the body shop… all smooth and shiny again!

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Weyland-Yutani

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Yeah I tried that too but it didn't work out. Spent a lot of time fitting and cutting the heat wrap. But it wouldn't stay stuck to the plastic, especially during a track day. I gave up on it.
Air is a poor conductor of heat. Plus, even at idle, I'm guessing you're flowing around 60 cfm or so. That air isn't hanging around in the intake long enough for any of that to matter.
 

Keithfro

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Installed AirDesign hood vents from ford. These look way more aggressive than stock and install was super easy. I have to say the most satisfying part was cleaning out from under the stock vents. There were fine pebbles, road debris, and tons of dirt.

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ice445

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Installed AirDesign hood vents from ford. These look way more aggressive than stock and install was super easy. I have to say the most satisfying part was cleaning out from under the stock vents. There were fine pebbles, road debris, and tons of dirt.

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How hard is it to remove the stock ones?
 

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Keithfro

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How hard is it to remove the stock ones?
Very easy! You have to remove the hood insulation with plastic clip puller, then 4 9mm nuts from each vent. There was some double sided tape that holds the plastic piece to the underside of the hood but I just crammed the clip puller in there to separate it. The whole process took 15 minutes.
 

GTP

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Air is a poor conductor of heat. Plus, even at idle, I'm guessing you're flowing around 60 cfm or so. That air isn't hanging around in the intake long enough for any of that to matter.
Uh .. we're talking about how hot is the entire engine bay on a track day.
The heat wrap I had just was not sticky enough IMO. Add the high heat, and it just let go and laid underneath the airbox, lol.
 
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GTP

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Sulked a little … :frown:

Can you spot anything missing ?

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Well, it’s only half missing - but I think that’s worse … :

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WD :like:
You may already know that there is a long thread about the diff bolts breaking. There is some shear stress across the threaded area in the OEM design. It is more likely to happen from drag racing launches.

In my car, I added aluminum sleeves to take up the 2mm gap, plus Steeda black support inserts. This leverages the strength of the solid shank area of the OEM bolt. I did not want to go full monty with drilled bosses and a through-bolt solution.

Sorry for your loss.
 

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fmc_smt

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Some photos of last weekends Grand Tour ..... Mor3can be seen at 21stcenturycarshow.org
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RazzaRossa

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$500 but ordered. Better than the 2x8 I use currently. I’m tired of finding it half way down the street each time it rains. What’s the over under on days till some scumbag thief poaches it? It is 200lbs and 12’ long bolted together so that my slow a kid on a bike down.
Good, but it is pricey, but so are chin spoilers. Maybe drill for some of those long blue Tapcons with fender washers added, paint 'em black. At least it will really slow a would be thief down, they hate hanging around crime scenes for very long.
 

Prodigal

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Very easy! You have to remove the hood insulation with plastic clip puller, then 4 9mm nuts from each vent. There was some double sided tape that holds the plastic piece to the underside of the hood but I just crammed the clip puller in there to separate it. The whole process took 15 minutes.
Assuming these are only asthetic and not functional? They do look good.
 

ice445

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Sulked a little … :frown:

Can you spot anything missing ?

1662205793153.jpeg


Well, it’s only half missing - but I think that’s worse … :

1662205842679.jpeg


WD :like:
Wow, I've never seen someone break one on a stock car before. Must have been a faulty bolt. The crappy design doesn't help either. It's a lot of work to replace it with a "through bolt" kit but it's probably worth doing, since the dealer will probably take 200 years to repair that under warranty.
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