Wait until after break in period to remove hydro carbon trap & switch air filter?

[Epiphany]

LMFAO.
Let's see what an actual engineer did and the results:

Since he never mentioned any cooldown with respect to his test methods...he should also have run the test by measuring output on the dyno without the carbon filter for both stock and the aftermarket filter and then added the carbon filter to each. I suspect the delta would have been greater. Then again, zero times zero is still zero. His test vehicle sucked.

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[WildHorse]

His test vehicle sucked.

it did. but, deadly consistent haha

 

[mike mahoney]

I removed mine recently at about the 200 mile mark and dropped in new filter at the same time. No issues. I also removed all the mounting tabs for the charcoal filter housing and followed that up by sanding smooth the inside of the box.

Since yours is a Mach 1, make sure you keep the insert in place so you avoid any lean condition due to unaccounted air.

18 rwhp? Not in my experience. But helping it breathe a little easier, within reason, won't hurt.

Can you share a detailed video on how to remove the trap from the tube?

 

[DRKHORS]

Can you share a detailed video on how to remove the trap from the tube?

Unfortunately, I didn't record the process and don't have a spare lid to do a video on. Here are the basic steps I took, though:

1. Using a small drill bit, and being careful not to drill too far so you don't drill through the lid, drill out the plastic mounting tabs that holds the grill in place.
2. Pull the trap loose from the lid and remove.
3. Use a combination of both cutting wheels and sanding disks with a Dremel tool, remove the mounting areas and "stands" that help support the trap. Due to the small size of the workspace, I wasn't able to get these areas completely smooth with just the Dremel, so on to the next step.
4. Use sandpaper to smooth out the remains of the mounting areas and stands inside of the upper lid.
5. Clean out as much as possible of the residual plastic debris that you have created by using compressed air. I found I wasn't able to get ALL of the debris out doing this, so I moved on to the next step.
6. Final cleaning can be done with water and, in my case a sponge, to make sure all plastic debris had been removed.
7. Ensure upper lid is completely dry before reinstalling the upper lid.

*Make sure you remove the MAF from the intake tube before doing any work, making note of it's orientation for reinstalling once all work has been completed.

Hopefully this helps!

 

[merlin803]

For the Mach 1, it's a different removal process than for the GT but it is pretty easy - no drilling or sanding necessary. Tony's Fords has some great videos about it - The Truth about 2022 & 2023 Coyote V8 Part 2 Important updated Info - YouTube

 

[BabyDoc1012]

I’ve got 400 on mine and have been wanting to remove the HC trap but wasn’t sure about waiting until I reached a 1,000 mi and if there would be any CELs. But I guess I’m gonna pull mine tomorrow.

 

[young at heart]

it did. but, deadly consistent haha

It was indeed consistent but it wasn’t a powerful V-8 Mustang. If I remember correctly it was a Subie or some such and you’d expect completely different results from that. Whole different deal.

Remember that Tony’s Fords 18 wheel hp increase was proven on a dyno. Pretty hard to dispute dyno results unless you want to dispute Tony’s methodology and I guess that’ll be next. And I don’t think Tony’s veracity has ever been called into question.

 

[young at heart]

I’ve got 400 on mine and have been wanting to remove the HC trap but wasn’t sure about waiting until I reached a 1,000 mi and if there would be any CELs. But I guess I’m gonna pull mine tomorrow.

Please let us know results.

 

[young at heart]

For the Mach 1, it's a different removal process than for the GT but it is pretty easy - no drilling or sanding necessary. Tony's Fords has some great videos about it - The Truth about 2022 & 2023 Coyote V8 Part 2 Important updated Info - YouTube

Im wondering if it might be smart to buy a whole new tube and MAF sensor, etc. to booger around with and save back the original.

 

[merlin803]

Im wondering if it might be smart to buy a whole new tube and MAF sensor, etc. to booger around with and save back the original.

I did that when I had my 22 GT but don't think it would be necessary for the Mach 1 because you are not making any permanent changes, the filter will pop out and if you ever want to just put it back in, you can.

 

[Rapid Red]

it did. but, deadly consistent haha

vert funny

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

I pulled my trap the day I brought the mach 1 home, it went right in the trash. Anything upstream of the MAF will not effect the tune or emissions because the air is unmetered at that point. It's when you change something after the MAF that will mess things up.

 

[Jjmoberg]

I really dont understand all the worry about pulling these filters. Its a restriction in front of the maf. Take it out. Dont take it out. Its not a big deal either way. I highly doubt any warranty work will ever be denied for just that. And as far as removing it before break in, why would that matter? The car isnt gonna throw a code inside of 1000 miles it wouldnt throw after 1000 miles. I dont know of one person that had trouble from removing the hydrocarbon filter in a M1 or a GT.

 

[Rapid Red]

I really dont understand all the worry about pulling these filters. Its a restriction in front of the maf. Take it out. Dont take it out. Its not a big deal either way. I highly doubt any warranty work will ever be denied for just that. And as far as removing it before break in, why would that matter? The car isnt gonna throw a code inside of 1000 miles it wouldnt throw after 1000 miles. I dont know of one person that had trouble from removing the hydrocarbon filter in a M1 or a GT.

Even then, it's a sure bet it would never be noticed.

 

[Gnatsum21]

I ripped mine out right away, and floored it. No "break-in" time for me. After roughly 2k miles it had a super charger anyway. Keeps the bbq tick away..

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