Vibration between 50 & 70 mph

[2007GT500]

Sounds like you need to find a new dealer. A dealer that has invested in the equipment recommended by the manufacturer to perform an accurate diagnosis.

Ford released an SSM (Special Service Message) for this issue quite a while ago. Engineering found that the issue was attributed to imbalance on the 2 piece driveshafts; it had nothing to do with "bean counters" or any other conspiracy theories. In order to correct the concern, the driveshaft needs to be balanced with the MasterTech MTS 4000 vibration analyzer. So once again, if the dealer doesn't have this tool or doesn't know how to use it, find a new dealer.

The process did not fix the issue in my case:frusty:. They tried to balance the original DS as you mentioned but it did not fix the problem. They replaced the DS and it still vibrated. The car shook so bad I just got rid of it. Ford is aware of the problem but has no fix for the issue.

I am a diehard Ford fan and have owned 16 Mustangs. I bought another Mustang after getting rid of the first S550. The second one did not vibrate at all on my test drive so I bought it. The car now has 3,000 miles on it and is starting to vibrate between 50-60. No where near as bad as the first one. It's not a conspiracy theory it is a fact. There is a vibration issue with the S550 and Ford keeps selling the car with no fix.

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[Alan2955]

Finally drove a good one!

The process did not fix the issue in my case:frusty:. They tried to balance the original DS as you mentioned but it did not fix the problem. They replaced the DS and it still vibrated. The car shook so bad I just got rid of it. Ford is aware of the problem but has no fix for the issue.

I am a diehard Ford fan and have owned 16 Mustangs. I bought another Mustang after getting rid of the first S550. The second one did not vibrate at all on my test drive so I bought it. The car now has 3,000 miles on it and is starting to vibrate between 50-60. No where near as bad as the first one. It's not a conspiracy theory it is a fact. There is a vibration issue with the S550 and Ford keeps selling the car with no fix.

Lurker here for past year. I own a 2014 V6 Premium Automatic Convertible. Bought it at one year old after first test driving a 2015 that vibrated badly, but at the time I chalked it up to flat spotted tires. My cheapness made me grab the 2014. It has always ran smoothly. About a year ago I rented a 2016 eco boost with about 3000 miles on it. It vibrated like hell. A month later I rented another one. Same story, bad vibrations between 50 and 70. Now I just rented a May build 2016 eco boost convertible with about 23k on it. Amazingly it's pretty damn good. Maybe a very tiny vibe in the 50 to 60 range, but I'm very picky and it wouldn't bother me. The other 2 I would have been ready to kill someone at Ford. So I guess there are good ones out there. I'd love to trade my 14 in for the newer body style, but I'm not about do it until I'm convinced Ford has fixed this issue! I'll just keep tabs on this forum and see how it progresses.

 

[Befuddled Canuck]

With all due respect,,,,,FordTechOne
I have had all you have described performed by a competent and one of Ontario's leading dealerships. Ford owners from miles around, including commercial fleets, bring there vehicles to them for servicing! Like I said (Please don't take this as gospel) it is how I feel. I am 55 years old and had several Ford products over the years and never been so disappointed. I am not a conspiracy theorist. I find it quite disturbing that an after market company manufactured a line of products in anticipating the release of a redesigned car that they have had ties with the manufacturer and racing division going back to Henry Ford days (1910).
I also understand deadlines and the requirement to release a new vehicle and then handle the damage control (warranty) as required. The problem is,,, IT'S NOT!!! for so many. This is why there are programs like LEMON LAWS to protect the consumer.
A question to ponder,,, why was FORD the only company of the BIG 3 that didn't require assistance from the government several years ago? HMMM,,,BEAN COUNTERS.
I think you should reflect on your loyalties with a company that is not being completely forthright.

 

[69mach1-395]

I'm just glad that mine does not have this issue.

 

[Dailydragger]

My vibration returned after 300 miles. It has been at the dealer all week and the Ford engineer has said that the vibration is still within spec. So looks like after a new driveshaft and the hose clamp balance, they have given up.

 

[Dominant1]

I love how they tell you what's acceptable especially after you dropped 40k on the car! Such arrogance!!!!

 

[shahram72]

I love how they tell you what's acceptable especially after you dropped 40k on the car! Such arrogance!!!!

Yeah, it's acceptable for a $40K car but my $800 1976 Datsun 280Z (also IRS) did not do this. Nor any 80's Corvette. Nor my 97 Lincoln Mark VIII. I would have upgraded to a GT but no way now. Just keep mine till warranty is up. A real shame cause I really love the car.

 

[Alan2955]

My vibration returned after 300 miles. It has been at the dealer all week and the Ford engineer has said that the vibration is still within spec. So looks like after a new driveshaft and the hose clamp balance, they have given up.

I wonder what they think is ok? The one I'm renting definitely has a vibe between 50 and 60, but it's not that bad as to ruin the car. Still could and should be better though. Shame on Ford! That's why I just bought a Toyota Highlander for my daily driver. I don't trust Ford quality, nor their willingness to fix their mistakes! Fortunately my 2014 Mustang has been decent excepting the air ciondtioner is weak compared to other vehicles I've owned. Not a biggie since I usually have the top down.

 

[GTRacerX.]

One Piece Drive Shaft

My 2016 MT-82 GT had the same issue around 70-75 ish. I took it in and they replaced the driveshaft, but it still vibrated. So they used the vibration analyzer and found the new one to be out of balance. They balanced it with hose clamps and it reduced the vibration to almost nothing. Its still there if you really focus in on it.

Would seem to be a solution also - if you get a quality one.
Plus Steeda Mustang Ultimate IRS 'Stop the Hop' Package (15-17 All)

 

[ABS550]

Still following the thread and wondering....

I have been following this thread since May 2016 when I got my new 2015 GT manual with a vibe.

The posts I made with my tests and fix are found on pages 118 and 119 of the thread. (2-hose clamps worked like a charm)

What I am wondering is this. I balanced the rear drive-shaft (as it is of course a 2-piece) and it fixed my problem. Where I did the balancing was basically the only easily accessible place to do the balance. Maybe I was lucky and found the part that needed to be balanced.
Perhaps some people have an imbalanced shaft in the front "half" of the driveshaft. In order to balance anything but the rear-most section of the rear-most shaft, you would have to remove the entire exhaust system and run the car (in the air) without it. How many dealerships would remove the whole exhaust system and run the car in the air, in an effort to work on the front half of the driveshaft?
I don't think I would have done that in my garage either.

Just food for thought.

Blake

 

[Gurjit]

just got a brand new driveline installed and the vibration is slightly better, but I can still feel is from 80-110 km/hr, worse around 80-90 km/hr
now I can feel it in the floor and steering wheel a whole lot more
and around 135 km/hr the shifter rattles like crazy
rhythmic vibrations

 

[Dominant1]

just got a brand new driveline installed and the vibration is slightly better, but I can still feel is from 80-110 km/hr, worse around 80-90 km/hr
now I can feel it in the floor and steering wheel a whole lot more
and around 135 km/hr the shifter rattles like crazy
rhythmic vibrations

Thats not good, you should try the crossmember shims !!!!

 

[Cruizer40]

I CURED MY VIBRATION!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's what did it and the method I used:

1) Installed Steeda cradle bushing supports and diff bushings (red). This made it better, but not completely eliminated.
2) Did a DIY on-car balance of my driveshaft. Below I'll explain the background and method for what I did...

As a home shop machinist, I often have need to balance grinding wheels for my surface grinder. The grinding wheel hubs have two movable balance weights that can be used to adjust both the location AND the magnitude of the counterbalance. I used a similar method on my driveshaft using two hose clamps as counterweights.

Use only premium quality hose clamps: US made, Stainless Steel. Unfortunately I don't remember what size I used. But that's easy for you to figure out on your own.

1) Safely raise the back end of the car so the rear wheels can spin freely. Safely is the key word here...
2) Turn traction control off and slowly increase speed until your hear/feel peak vibration. Note the speed at which this occurs.
3) Now, install one of the two hose clamps onto the driveshaft back by the pinion flange.
4) Repeat step 2, the vibration will likely be worse.
5) Turn off the car and loosen the clamp and rotate it about 30 degrees.
6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you get minimum vibration at the same speed.
7) Now fine tune the position with very small movements. Once done, you will have located the light side of the driveshaft and the screw assembly on the clamp is acting as a counterweight. If the vibration is gone, you're done: tighten the clamp securely and grab a beer.
8) Now install a second hose clamp next to the first one lined up exactly the same. The screws should both be facing the same way.
9) Using a permanent marker, create a match mark between both hose clamps and the driveshaft. Just draw a straight line crossing the band portion of the clamps and the driveshaft.
10) The next step will be to adjust the amount of counterweight needed to achieve no vibration (assuming two hose clamps are enough). Again run the car on jack stands and note the vibration. If the vibration is gone, you're done: tighten the clamp securely and grab a beer.
11) Loosen both clamps and rotate them slightly in opposite directions so that each is moved by the same amount: this is important. Use the mark on the driveshaft you made in 9 as a reference. The lines on each clamp band should always be symmetrical about the line on the driveshaft.
12) Run the car and note vibration.
13) Repeat steps 11 and 12 rotating each clamp a little at a time until the vibration is eliminated...

Now, don't fret about hose clamps on your driveshaft. They will stay put. Furthermore, if Ford uses their analyzer to do an on car balance, they will use hose clamps. As an added measure, you can always stake them with epoxy...

Cheers!
John

I have a 2016 CS auto transmission and I took my car to the dealer with the infamous vibration. We swapped tires did all the usual then sent both halfs of the driveline out for testing. It came back with a new paint job and a note saying it was within spec. It vibrated as much as it ever did when I got it back from the dealer.
I'm not sure where the problem lies however the vibration has all but disappeared using the above method from John.

The bigger question: Is if the driveline was indeed within spec before I put the hose clamp on then why would the clamp make a difference at all? What would the root source of the vibration be? Something with the differential?

 

[Dominant1]

Great explanation of what you did to eliminate your vibration, however others have done the clamp solution only to have the vibes return some months later, hope yours is permanent, we will see!

 

[Cruizer40]

Great explanation of what you did to eliminate your vibration, however others have done the clamp solution only to have the vibes return some months later, hope yours is permanent, we will see!

Yes that's my point, if it's not truley the driveline but yet the hose clamp fixes the vibration on a temp bases, then what is the true culprit?

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