On the side lovers you’ll want to cut out the bottom support (it won’t be used anymore.
Protect it from what? Its insulation, its edges aren't treated in any special way from factory. In my case its been years and its not like disintegrating or anything.
It is riveted to the top of the airbox cover. Just unscrew the airbox top and remove to access the air filer element
Do you have a part number for the kit you mentioned? I looked around on Levittown and was not able to zero in on it. Thanks.
Yes, Yes and Yes!....so, slice off the rubber and rivet the clear cover to the flange? The base diameter of the OEM filter diameter interferes at that flange height but the Blue AirRaid (Ford Performance) filter works? Thanks.
If you do the hood vents…The cover solution was made because a lot of track guys have vents on their cars & blocking water, as mentioned above, & avoiding suffocating the filter was the prime objective.
Your 'concept' is solid, but the reality is that (especially on the newer 2015+ Mustangs) hood vents are designed (in no particular order) to 1) remove hot air from engine bay; 2) increase radiator effectiveness (above) & 3) to (possibly) decrease lift. I have run my Mustang thru basic drive-thru car washes (where the pressure is high & direction varies w/the nozzle) & NEVER had an issue w/the water getting into my open air filter (Steeda, but pretty much what the original poster has). My 2018 has (roughly) 8x3 inch hood vents ... but the under-hood insulation is only cut (roughly) 3x1 inches. Makes ya kinda wonder if Ford didn't have an "oh, crap" moment when someone discovered they had a 'hole' in the hood & no corresponding 'hole' in the insulation!!! PS: Make sure that you drill a small hole in the bottom of the (after-market) air box to insure that any incoming (top &/or front) water does not build up under the filter. Not all aftermarket air boxes have this.
Thanks Nightmare, I will also look into the GT500 assssembly. I was thinking about cutting the insulation towards back and only leaving the front half to protect the vents from rain and filter housing area. I did that for my 2021 ROUSH stage 3 car when i installed the german SHROPP strut tower brace that everyone stated couldnt be done via blower. It worked. I gotta find pics for you guys.
After cutting the hood insulation, i have utilized black spray paint on those open edges which hardens them and removes the sensitivuity to water. Gotta spray and paint by hand w a brush like 10X, I did same on my roush car w strut tower brace and it worked.
Thank you, that was what I was looking for. I tried black duct tape and it is slowly removing itself from the heat. I had considered paint or some form of undercoating to close up the fiber where exposed. So far, barring any other good ideas, I think that will be the direction that I take.
Where it has been cut there is a lot of material that is not crushed and sealed like the edges of the original piece. Water will be absorbed here and the edge will continue to deteriorate and consequently look worse over time. Just looks unfinished and like it was done by a hack. I believe that I have it figured out and will report on the success or failure.
This all appears fine. However, I cut the factory blanket and reinstalled it. It’s the edges around where it is cut out that I am asking what others are doing to improve the appearance and stop water intrusion into the blanket.On the side lovers you’ll want to cut out the bottom support (it won’t be used anymore.
The center is a non issue
