Trickle chargers

[Snoopy49]

What about this?

NOCO GC012 X-Connect OBD-II Adapter Accessory For NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers

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[WD Pro]

Here’s what I did :

WD

 

[kilobravo]

Earl: Wire gauge for your fuse box jumper? Stranded? #12?

 

[Cobra99]

NOCO GC012 X-Connect OBD-II Adapter Accessory For NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers

Have you used it? I want to order but am hesitant.

 

[Snoopy49]

Earl: Wire gauge for your fuse box jumper? Stranded? #12?

I used 10 ga stranded automotive wire, but 12 or 14 ga should be okay. The wire needs to be able to handle 40 amps. It feeds two 20 amp circuits. I used 10 ga because that is what I had available.

 

[kilobravo]

Thanks, Earl. I think I have some #10 stranded but if not, I'll go with #12. As you say, that should handle the current.

 

[Snoopy49]

Thanks, Earl. I think I have some #10 stranded but if not, I'll go with #12. As you say, that should handle the current.

I have been looking at 40 amp fused wiring requirements in the 2014 Mustang Service Manual and 12 ga wire is the common wire size for 40 amps, so go with the 12 ga.

 

[kilobravo]

Ah, my poor fingers thank you, Earl, I wasn't relishing twisting that #10 into that tiny loop.

Thanks, bro.

KB

 

[kilobravo]

Got the jumper made today, Earl and like you, what I had laying around and readily available was stranded #10 so that's what I used. Gonna do the charger tomorrow but I'm not sure where to mount the smart connect. Unlike Mark's install, my power will come from the front. I suppose using the same location would work just as well with the CTEK extension cable.

I'll find that out tamarra...

KB

 

[kilobravo]

As perfect as Mark's CTEK monitoring box install is, because I need the connection in front, I've decided that I'm just going to route it up towards the front right and cable tie the CTEK connector to one of the open holes in the frame, out of the way.

Don't see any way to do this well and, be able to close the hood, so I'm going to plan on just having it down to the first click but not latched and I'm guessing this is what many folks do. Therefive, I can run the extension cable over the headlight and into the compartment and still be able to let the hood down to the first latch.

That's the plan anyway, I'll know by this time tomorrow.

At least it's still plenty warm down this way and garage work isn't too bad. Another bonus to the warmer temps is that we can still take showers outside. :-) One of my better eye deers over the yeers. :-) Love that thing (but no "organic echo" unfortunately.) <grin>

KB

 

[Warpath]

I use a battery tender. I hooked it up this way :

There is the negative connection

The positive connection attaches to the nut that holds the positive cable to the terminal.

It looks like this. Yellow highlight shows how I tucked the charging cable next to the battery negative lead.

Tuck the cable next to the battery and install the cover.

I zip tied the charging cable to the negative cable. Now plug into the battery tender extension cable and your charging the battery.

here a picture of the connection:

Which battery tender did you go with? i'm thinking about the 12v 5 amp # 022-0186G-DL-WH

 

[gfcobra04]

Which battery tender did you go with? i'm thinking about the 12v 5 amp # 022-0186G-DL-WH

This one:

I also added the 25’ extensions

 

[Tomster]

The negative lead of the battery tender needs to be connected to a chassis ground or the battery charging monitor will not know the true state of your battery.

Your car could think it jas a 3/4 full battery, when in fact it is full because the charge put on it was not monitored.

Positive lead of the battery tender lead to the battery or + lead and the negative lead to a chassis ground.

 

[Tomster]

^^^ The problem is that the car monitors the battery state. Its a good thing and a bad thing......

The car keeps track of the state of the battery and commands the alternator to charge when needed. If the battery state is not equal to what the car thinks it is, then you have a disageement. This leads to electrical issues.

If you were to replace the battery, you would have to reset the battery state with a scan tool or forscan. If you don't, the system will be confused and you will have problems.

So, if you are using a battery tender, negative lead to a chassis ground and the positive to the (positive) connection of your choice. I use the main + feed to the hood fuse block.

 

[kilobravo]

Got the CTEK maintainer rig and accoutrements installed this afternoon. Surprisingly, it was a 1X job for a change. Didn't go operating room "sano" as Mark and others have done but, <grin> it's inconspicuous, out of the way, and easy to use.

NOW, if I can just REMEMBER to disconnect the cable AND latch the hood before I take her out next time! <laughing> Seems simple, I know, but more often than not, it isn't por moi.

Oh yeah Tom, I lubed da pins, too. My chidt didn't have a nifty spout on the bottle so I had to use a workbench brush to smear it around up in there and then the quarter extension to exercise the spring. I figured I'm good for the duration now. <smile>

KB

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