Trickle chargers

[kilobravo]

Oh yeah, the Bluetooth Battery Sense widget and app work well, also.

KB

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[Tomster]

I saw you rigged a jumper? If you hooked the + to the fuse block and the - to the chassis, you shouldnt need a jumper.

 

[kilobravo]

If you're talking about the blue jumper Tom, that's the Powerpoint Relay jumper that Earl turned us on to. That's the only one I used. Both the charger and the smart sense are using chassis grounds at the strut tower.

KB

 

[WD Pro]

The negative lead of the battery tender needs to be connected to a chassis ground or the battery charging monitor will not know the true state of your battery.

Your car could think it jas a 3/4 full battery, when in fact it is full because the charge put on it was not monitored.

Positive lead of the battery tender lead to the battery or + lead and the negative lead to a chassis ground.

Hi,

I'm interested in the logic for this (i.e. not just trying to be argumentative)

Why would the neg go to ground rather than the battery terminal ?

The chargers are looking for small voltage increments to determine their actions. Adding extra connections and / or extended voltage paths will increase the discrepancy between the real battery voltage and the voltage that the charger sees (I accept that some compromises have to be made if you need an extension cable due to charger / car location restrictions etc).

The text from CTEK is confusing, but the diagrams are clear :

I assume 'fuel pipe' should read 'negative cable' or similar ?

What do you think ?

Cheers,

WD

 

[kilobravo]

WD: The Physics involved are long gone from the brain cells here and all I know is that connecting both the charger and the BT Battery Sense module to the same positive post at the fuse box...works, or at least APPEARS to work. Mine charged last night and when I checked first thing, Mr. CTEK gave me a thumbs up with a green light, fully-charged indication.

KB

Edit: I keep forgetting about the damn BT thing. <laughing>

Yep, Smarty Pants Smart Sense says all is well, too. Pretty darn cool I gotta say.

 

[kilobravo]

WD: Quite by accident, I noticed the CTEK printed manual was upside down on my desk and that's when I saw this graphic.

This SEEMS to indicate that either a sub-post off the battery or a chassis ground will suffice.

KB

 

[Snoopy49]

Hi,

I'm interested in the logic for this (i.e. not just trying to be argumentative)

Why would the neg go to ground rather than the battery terminal ?

The chargers are looking for small voltage increments to determine their actions. Adding extra connections and / or extended voltage paths will increase the discrepancy between the real battery voltage and the voltage that the charger sees (I accept that some compromises have to be made if you need an extension cable due to charger / car location restrictions etc).

The text from CTEK is confusing, but the diagrams are clear :



I assume 'fuel pipe' should read 'negative cable' or similar ?

What do you think ?

Cheers,

WD

Refer to post #29

For a complete explanation got to 2020 GT500 Battery Charging, Jumping and Replacement

 

[WD Pro]

@Snoopy49 - That's great info thanks

WD

 

[OH3Cobra]

Can someone pls post a pic of the ground you used? It would be much appreciate for the not so mechanical.

Mine goes into storage this weekend. My buddy with the "Ultimate Garage" is kind enough to give me two slots in the discount den (3 - 4 car lifts) Climate controlled, humidity controlled. It'll be in the high cotton.

 

[Snoopy49]

Can someone pls post a pic of the ground you used? It would be much appreciate for the not so mechanical.

Mine goes into storage this weekend. My buddy with the "Ultimate Garage" is kind enough to give me two slots in the discount den (3 - 4 car lifts) Climate controlled, humidity controlled. It'll be in the high cotton.

This is one option, black arrow.

 

[Tomster]

This is one option, black arrow.

Yes, that is the one I use as well.

 

[Tomster]

If you're talking about the blue jumper Tom, that's the Powerpoint Relay jumper that Earl turned us on to. That's the only one I used. Both the charger and the smart sense are using chassis grounds at the strut tower.

KB

You shouldn't need the powerpoint jumper unless you want your powerpoints to be hot all the time.

 

[kilobravo]

Tom: Maybe (likely) I assumed that the PP relay timer was also the timer for the audio system when the engine is shut down but the doors are not opened. If that's not the case then you are correct, I don't need the PP connections hot all the time and could restore the relay. But, if they do use the same timer, I'll leave it as is.

Do you know if the audio/nav system also uses the PP relay timer? Anyone else?

KB

 

[Snoopy49]

Tom: Maybe (likely) I assumed that the PP relay timer was also the timer for the audio system when the engine is shut down but the doors are not opened. If that's not the case then you are correct, I don't need the PP connections hot all the time and could restore the relay. But, if they do use the same timer, I'll leave it as is.

Do you know if the audio/nav system also uses the PP relay timer? Anyone else?

KB

The relay is only used by the 2 Power Points, I jumpered mine so I could charge thru the Power Points.

 

[kilobravo]

Well shice, now I have that might pretty jumper but it doesn't do what I thought. SFD!

So Earl and all you other smart folks...is the timeout for audio after engine shutdown something that can be changed with FORScan or what?

KB

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