Track Time Limited due to High CHT

[nbjeeptj]

This was the fist time I have any data from a real guage on the oil and coolant temp. At somewhere around 241-245 CHT it starts limiting max rpm which per that table would have been 285 oil temp or 244 ECT if memory serves me right. I don’t know for sure which the computer thought was that hot. I am now either convinced that it was never that hot in reality, or that all these cooling toys make a huge difference. Also my test hit on the road was as hard as I could push it on a 55mph road without risking getting a ticket so I don’t think it was building up the same heat at 6800rpm but coasting for the most part as it will on the track where it’s a full throttle under max load. The CHT got up pretty quick at that RPM but I don’t think it was building up any real heat in the engine. For the question on the transmission mine is a 6 speed manual with no cooler of any kind on it as of now, I like the looks of the one that goes in front of the wheel to the side of the radiator and may figure out a way to modify one in there for that, but so far I have not had an issue, just have been real religious about changing that and the rear diff fluid.
I will report back after Friday’s track event with some real track data. I will run the HP tuner data logger also so I can compare what the computer thinks those temps are vs what is real.

Sponsored

 

[Angrey]

thanks for chiming in. As discussed in previous posts, the pressure under the hood ie downstream of the radiator is pretty low. I have measured it, as well as the pressure upstream of the radiator. Road test at 80 mph with 2 very accurate gages in my car (plus a barometer) and 4 leads inside the various cavities. Took that data and built a 1D compressible flow model.
The reason for the lower pressure in the engine bay is because the flow is metered at the grille. That is by far the smallest area or restriction in the system. And the largest area in the system is the exit area as the flow escapes the engine bay. Roughly 65-70% of the total available dP is burned across the stock grille. The remaining ~30% occurs across the condenser, A10 HX, the radiator, fan shroud, and engine bay ... combination. So opening up the engine bay with louvers, vents, etc is small potatoes. I have done it and got a ~3 deg CHT reduction. Now if someone goes with an aftermarket grille and doesn’t seal the radiator, then the engine bay exit become a big piece. Cus now the flow is not metered at the inlet and the big leaks need to exit the system.

In summary, To improve cooling, by far the best mod is sealing the system which allows the air that actually goes through the grille to go through the radiator.

I understand that this is not the “conventional” solution and not very elegant for that matter, but it is by far the most effective. And my last Track event with 100F ambient is the support behind this. In the end, I’m just trying to help. Please don’t take offensive to what I’m saying. I’m Just trying to pass along my data and experience ... to help the GT community. Cheers.

It's your car. Do as you think is best. As referenced below, cars that make a lot more steam than yours necessitate better exiting from the engine bay (Aka GT500 and 350FP). Again, you can put a ginormous funnel on your front lawn and try to force more storm water down a drain, but if it has nowhere to go I think you'll find the efforts yield minimal results. Boxing the radiator will increase the velocity across the exchangers markedly if you open up the backside and allow the traffic jam you're creating to clear out.

Again, your car. Follow your own instincts and needs.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I’m headed to road Atlanta this weekend to test out this next round of cooling mods.

I’ve driven it around town and she definitely fights to stay cool on traffic now. At 90+f ambient it just stays under 220cht in bumper to bumper. But cruising at 80-90f ambient I don’t think the thermostat even opens.

I still believe the biggest variable to this equation is the nut behind the wheel. It’s the reason we’re seeing such a wide variety of “solutions”

I’ve found the difference between the car happily lapping for 20+ minutes and it melting down in 7-10 minutes is only 2-3 seconds delta in lap time on a 2+ mile course. I’ve found Re71r’s can kill the car a lot faster than RS4’s—both 200tw tires.

I think the nice thing is we’re compiling a list that you can chip away at until you get to your unique solution.

 

[67Fast_V]

I’m headed to road Atlanta this weekend to test out this next round of cooling mods.

I’ve driven it around town and she definitely fights to stay cool on traffic now. At 90+f ambient it just stays under 220cht in bumper to bumper. But cruising at 80-90f ambient I don’t think the thermostat even opens.

I still believe the biggest variable to this equation is the nut behind the wheel. It’s the reason we’re seeing such a wide variety of “solutions”

I’ve found the difference between the car happily lapping for 20+ minutes and it melting down in 7-10 minutes is only 2-3 seconds delta in lap time on a 2+ mile course. I’ve found Re71r’s can kill the car a lot faster than RS4’s—both 200tw tires.

I think the nice thing is we’re compiling a list that you can chip away at until you get to your unique solution.

Yup, the shroud mod will run warmer bumper to bumper. As mentioned, mine runs up to 201F with stop and go. About +20F from moving. Yours seem a bit worse. Not sure why. You mods seem very similar to mine. Maybe it's duration in stop-n-go. Maybe 5-10 mins for me, usually. And I agree, pushing and holding high rpm makes a big difference. Good luck at RA. Hope to run that track some day.

@nbjeeptj, thanks for the clarification. I understand now. Good to log the data and review afterwards. Curious how you do. Good luck.

@Angrey, My instincts are no good, so I need data to figure out what to do. Keeps me from running off in the wrong direction. Just remember the pinch point is the grille. ~100 sq in. stock. For reference, the stock radiator is roughly 300 sq in effective ... ~3X bigger The engine bay exit area stock is even bigger. And because of this geometry, the system flow will be "metered" at the grille (inlet) by design. Look at this way, if I have a 1' dia hose and add a 3" dia hose to the end of it vs a 4" hose at the end, does it flow anymore w/ the 4" hose? Ans: not much cus the restriction is in the 1" hose. Most all OEMs do it this way, meter at the grille. Easy knob to control. Also Ford made lots of changes on the GT500 including the grille. Haven't measured it, but it looks much bigger than the GT. Maybe 1.5-2X the GT. Makes sense. 750 hp needs more air. But its a system. Big grille + big leaks = bigger vent needed. Small grille+no leaks=smaller vent needed. Cheers.

 

[Angrey]

Yup, the shroud mod will run warmer bumper to bumper. As mentioned, mine runs up to 201F with stop and go. About +20F from moving. Yours seem a bit worse. Not sure why. You mods seem very similar to mine. Maybe it's duration in stop-n-go. Maybe 5-10 mins for me, usually. And I agree, pushing and holding high rpm makes a big difference. Good luck at RA. Hope to run that track some day.

@nbjeeptj, thanks for the clarification. I understand now. Good to log the data and review afterwards. Curious how you do. Good luck.

@Angrey, My instincts are no good, so I need data to figure out what to do. Keeps me from running off in the wrong direction. Just remember the pinch point is the grille. ~100 sq in. stock. For reference, the stock radiator is roughly 300 sq in effective ... ~3X bigger The engine bay exit area stock is even bigger. And because of this geometry, the system flow will be "metered" at the grille (inlet) by design. Look at this way, if I have a 1' dia hose and add a 3" dia hose to the end of it vs a 4" hose at the end, does it flow anymore w/ the 4" hose? Ans: not much cus the restriction is in the 1" hose. Most all OEMs do it this way, meter at the grille. Easy knob to control. Also Ford made lots of changes on the GT500 including the grille. Haven't measured it, but it looks much bigger than the GT. Maybe 1.5-2X the GT. Makes sense. 750 hp needs more air. But its a system. Big grille + big leaks = bigger vent needed. Small grille+no leaks=smaller vent needed. Cheers.

A lot of guys add the hood and side venting not primarily for the cooling but the aero. You CAN do your own research and find hard data on the front lift effects of adding hood venting.

It doesn't take a phD in fluid mechanics to grasp the concept that if adding venting in the hood reduces lift, that's a result of changing pressures on the front and above the engine bay. Those pressure changes are from change in FLOW. The more air that the car can gulp in the front mouth and process through efficiently the less air that gets routed underneath or around it. That additional air flow almost certainly has positive effects upon cooling (which lots of guys have reported anecdotally, but admittedly there isn't a lot of before/after temperature or cooling data to reference).

I love relying on my own instincts and data and I hate just assuming that form follows function and I'm not of the opinion that Ford engineers are infallible. But if the market has long offered hood venting (aftermarket adds) and if Ford bit the bullet with the GT500 and put what is naturally a big warranty, maintenance, complication and cost in the hood system and they run it on their FP350 program, then I'd make an argument that like steroids and baseball, they're doing it FOR GOOD REASONS. (I always laugh at people who argue steroids don't help baseball players).

I've gotten the sense that you're an experienced driver and pushing the car harder than most. You've installed what seems to be a bunch of instrumentation to confirm/deny approaches to modifications.

My only advice is you seem confirmation biased or resistant to the idea that some solutions may be an answer to your problems.

Yes, the GT500 creates more heat, therefore needs more cooling. That manifests itself in the changes they did to the front grille AND THE HOOD. Wouldn't it follow that if you did the SAME changes and you're creating less heat, that you'd be incorporating an overabundance of cooling (which is what you're looking for if you're flogging the car beyond the original cooling capabilities)?

 

[paulm1]

Anybody try and put a fan "switch" in run it on high on the track? I did this a long time ago on C4 corvettes (bottom feeders) and that worked very well. But the C4's have double fans.

 

[nbjeeptj]

I was able to get a little testing done this morning at the track. Only did 2 sessions due to a operator error with my HP tuner program but in the 2nd session I was able to make it think it was hot enough to take max RPM away. Looking at the real oil and coolant temps they were, oil at 232, coolant was 217 head was only at 235, and intake air was at 82, the car computer had coolant temp at 221 from HP tuner data log but the Ford algorithm had the oil temp at yellow so at the 285 mark that is the first stage of max rpm limit. Don’t have any idea what goes into the ford recipe for calculated oil temp but it appears to be way off in the case of real heavy track use.

I was trying to raise the temp limit for EOT when I updated the last file on my laptop and put that program in the car. Something was corrupted in that file and the car would not run after that. Luckily I had a backup file at the house and was able to get the car running again when I got home, but no time to get back to the track to test it. My guess is next time I won’t have the limit on RPM show up since I raised that setting to start level One with 295 then go up from there.

I would love to have that real temp data from the oil and coolant with only race louvers, that may have provided enough real cooling without all the other mods, and then just adjust the computer to keep it from limiting RPM based on made up numbers.

 

[67Fast_V]

I was able to get a little testing done this morning at the track. Only did 2 sessions due to a operator error with my HP tuner program but in the 2nd session I was able to make it think it was hot enough to take max RPM away. Looking at the real oil and coolant temps they were, oil at 232, coolant was 217 head was only at 235, and intake air was at 82, the car computer had coolant temp at 221 from HP tuner data log but the Ford algorithm had the oil temp at yellow so at the 285 mark that is the first stage of max rpm limit. Don’t have any idea what goes into the ford recipe for calculated oil temp but it appears to be way off in the case of real heavy track use.

I was trying to raise the temp limit for EOT when I updated the last file on my laptop and put that program in the car. Something was corrupted in that file and the car would not run after that. Luckily I had a backup file at the house and was able to get the car running again when I got home, but no time to get back to the track to test it. My guess is next time I won’t have the limit on RPM show up since I raised that setting to start level One with 295 then go up from there.

I would love to have that real temp data from the oil and coolant with only race louvers, that may have provided enough real cooling without all the other mods, and then just adjust the computer to keep it from limiting RPM based on made up numbers.

Thanks for the update . Looks like your independent ECT is close to the computer calc. That's good. Also 235F CHT is reasonable, but on a warmer day, it will move up. Were you pushing hard? On the oil temp, typically what I see is that the calculated oil is about 40F above CHT. So w/ 235 CHT, calc'ed oil I would expect to be 275F ... almost at the edge of green-yellow (280F). But maybe the OEM oil calc is different for different engine/trans/PP1 or not... combos.

I finished looking and analyzing my recent track data. See attached chart which I hope will help the GT track folks out there better address their cooling issues. I'll make a few quick points.

1) As mentioned previously, sealing the radiator really helped cooling but this chart makes it very easy to see. Going from ~50% sealing to ~98% sealing was worth 17F. Maybe I left 2 degs on the table with intensity, so maybe it was only 15F benefit. apples to apples. Still very significant.

2) The trend lines were created using my flow and heat transfer models, after anchoring to the max CHT point as indicated for each Track event. And if you look at the other data points, the trend lines look very reasonable.

3) You can see how ambient temp influences CHT. As expected, it's significant. I sorted of glossed over this mid way through my mods, since most of my track days were close in Tamb. But not last weeks track event (+15-20F hotter). Hence the need to generate this chart.

4) You will notice in the March data, that there are points below the curve. As forum member Never and others have pointed out, how hard you go will influence the max temps. This data shows that clearly. In the early sessions in March, I was loafing .

5) As discussed previously, my next mod is the grille. I needed to decide how much rework was required to reach the goal of 235F. Max rework or something less. As can be seen, I need the max. Target of 235F CHT reached on a 98F day. Anything hotter will exceed. Also note the grille mod is worth 10F in CHT. Decent improvement.

@nbjeept, your 235F CHT is right in the middle between 50% & 98% sealing curves (82 inlet - 5F = 77F Tamb). This tells me that you could do more sealing and get some additional improvement. Good luck. Cheers.

 

[Angrey]

Just for gits and shiggles, now that you have a very good control baseline, you should do a session with removing the entire hood. Would be interesting to see the data and with a friend it's not that difficult to remove and reinstall.

 

[GTP]

Velocity across a heat exchanger will improve it's thermal efficiency. The benefits are particularly beneficial at low values.

However, the system is also constrained by the total amount of ambient air that passes through the entire heat generating area.

As posted above, smashing more air into a smaller area isn't going to produce much benefit if the back side is already backed up and not able to flow properly (i.e. squirting a pressure washer at a coffee straw will have similar outcomes as a water hose at it if the back side is already constricted).

This is where I think improving backside flow (i.e. hood venting) will yield much more impactful results. Not only does opening up the hood allow less flow to get traffic jammed on the back side of the exchangers, it helps very much in both keeping under hood temps (and therefore intake temps) lower, but also to actually air cool the entire motor (reducing the load and delta T of the heat exchangers).

By trying to "box in" the the footprint of the radiator, it does indeed increase (to diminishing effect) the velocity across the exchangers, however, the rest of the air that's now disallowed goes over the car and under it (rather than contributing to the overall cooling of the front engine bay area).

At low speeds, this is particularly an issue, for a couple reasons. 1) the fans are most effectual at low speed so the with or without the boxing out, they're pulling air through and 2) at low speeds is where you want to flow as much ambient air through the bay as possible.

This all gets very complicated because under most conditions, low speeds is low engine loading, higher speeds (track speeds) is where the motor is loading most and generating most heat (but there's most flow).

I think if you want to observe some of the practical testing, look at the GT500 development and what they did (vs the GT350). They attempted to reduce fluid friction losses through the grill (narrowing the grill material thickness) and also increasing the size of the mouth to get more flow, recognizing the car will generate more heat. This combined with a large vent above the motor greatly increases the thermal exchange.

I don't think boxing will help under all conditions and without corresponding improvements to the flow of the back side of the exchangers (i.e. the exit paths out of the engine compartment) it may actually be detrimental in some conditions.

In summary, the heat exchangers are important but they're not the only aspect in cooling the hot areas of the car/motor. Air cooling and swap out can and do contribute so the entire system needs to be considered and not just one aspect.

This post is exactly my thinking. I was about to post similar comments, but Angrey has just about covered them all.

As for boxing, I am still not sure about it, but I won't dispute anyone's before/after temp measurement improvement after boxing. The reason I am a little skeptical is because of how fans work.

Flow into a fan is dependent more on incoming area and less on the "shape" of the area. Outlet flow depends more on the shape. Incoming flow is slower. because it has not been accelerated by the fan.

Volumetric flowrate is volume x velocity. Inlet side velocity is slower, so the flowrate can be the same with higher volume, and that means higher area on the inlet side of the radiator. IOW, without boxing you have more area of the ambient air.

The question is does boxing prevent all the air behind the grille from escaping to other areas and not going through the grille? If so, then boxing is a good idea. And it is possible that if closing off those "leakage" areas, but still with as large of area as possible, then more ambient air is available ahead of the radiator.

It is hard for me to describe this simply.

 

[67Fast_V]

This post is exactly my thinking. I was about to post similar comments, but Angrey has just about covered them all.

As for boxing, I am still not sure about it, but I won't dispute anyone's before/after temp measurement improvement after boxing. The reason I am a little skeptical is because of how fans work.

Flow into a fan is dependent more on incoming area and less on the "shape" of the area. Outlet flow depends more on the shape. Incoming flow is slower. because it has not been accelerated by the fan.

Volumetric flowrate is volume x velocity. Inlet side velocity is slower, so the flowrate can be the same with higher volume, and that means higher area on the inlet side of the radiator. IOW, without boxing you have more area of the ambient air.

The question is does boxing prevent all the air behind the grille from escaping to other areas and letnot going through the grille? If so, then boxing is a good idea. And it is possible that if closing off those "leakage" areas, but still with as large of area as possible, then more ambient air is available ahead of the radiator.

It is hard for me to describe this simply.

Fans don't provide any real cooling while on the track except in the event that there are low speed turns (<40 mph). Above about 40-50 mph, the fans don't add any cooling since the moving car produces more airflow than the fans can generate. What the fans do on a race track is impede the flow through the radiator, hence it's best to not have them or reduce the restriction ... hence my fan shroud mod.

The benefit of the "boxing" is to simplify the geometry from the grille to the radiator to allow the system to be seal more easily (hence reduce the leaks). There is also some straightening of the air going into the radiator to reduce the loses through the radiator but this benefit is minor.

I have zero "boxing" and only sealing. Sealing reduced my temps by 17F, as evidenced by the chart. And it was essentially free, except for 2 days of my labor.

Basic flow schematic: The inlet to the system is the grille. Once flow comes through the grille, it can either go to the radiator (1st through the condenser of course and then through the radiator), or the flow can go to the engine inlet, or the flow can go out an opening into the engine bay (aka ... a leak.) 1 inlet, 3 outlets.

The engine will draw air based on rpm and throttle position. So that is fixed. The rest of the air goes through the radiator or a leak.

Say you have 100 lb/s of air that goes through the grille. Say 10 goes to the engine and the other 90 will go to the radiator and the leaks. Plug the leak and more of that 90 will go through the radiator. It's that simple. The split of that 90 depends on the area of the radiator and the area of the leaks.

Flow In = Flow Out. Continuity eqn for SS flow. The volume of space upstream of the radiator (grille to radiator) makes no differences (as long as it's not too small and becomes a restriction ... which it's not and will never be, baring some major modification). The min area of the system is always going to be the grille unless you remove the grille. Under that situation, it changes the dynamics of the system as noted in previous posts.

I hope this helps.

@Angrey, on your idea of removing the hood, ... car goes to fast. Would not want to expose all the equipment under the hood to those kinds speeds. Plus the aero hit would be on the ugly side. Cheers.

 

[GTP]

This thread is getting kinda long. Maybe OP can edited post #1 as a summary and less of a question.
And even that post can be edited again as we progress.

 

[GTP]

Fans don't provide any real cooling while on the track except in the event that there are low speed turns (<40 mph). Above about 40-50 mph, the fans don't add any cooling since the moving car produces more airflow than the fans can generate. What the fans do on a race track is impede the flow through the radiator, hence it's best to not have them or reduce the restriction ... hence my fan shroud mod.

The benefit of the "boxing" is to simplify the geometry from the grille to the radiator to allow the system to be seal more easily (hence reduce the leaks). There is also some straightening of the air going into the radiator to reduce the loses through the radiator but this benefit is minor.

I have zero "boxing" and only sealing. Sealing reduced my temps by 17F, as evidenced by the chart. And it was essentially free, except for 2 days of my labor.

Basic flow schematic: The inlet to the system is the grille. Once flow comes through the grille, it can either go to the radiator (1st through the condenser of course and then through the radiator), or the flow can go to the engine inlet, or the flow can go out an opening into the engine bay (aka ... a leak.) 1 inlet, 3 outlets.

The engine will draw air based on rpm and throttle position. So that is fixed. The rest of the air goes through the radiator or a leak.

Say you have 100 lb/s of air that goes through the grille. Say 10 goes to the engine and the other 90 will go to the radiator and the leaks. Plug the leak and more of that 90 will go through the radiator. It's that simple. The split of that 90 depends on the area of the radiator and the area of the leaks.

Flow In = Flow Out. Continuity eqn for SS flow. The volume of space upstream of the radiator (grille to radiator) makes no differences (as long as it's not too small and becomes a restriction ... which it's not and will never be, baring some major modification). The min area of the system is always going to be the grille unless you remove the grille. Under that situation, it changes the dynamics of the system as noted in previous posts.

I hope this helps.

It does, thanks. And I mistook sealing and boxing to be equivalent.

I should think sealing is less of a project than boxing, but you spent 2 days on it??

Thanks for your scientific method and data collection, BTW. If sealing is worth 17F then I'll get right on that. Tips and photos?

Meanwhile my track day at Gingerman Monday caused me to slow down briefly a couple times. I was practicing paddle shifting more this event and because of this thread I shifted mostly at 6000 room.

I prefer to install a turnkey aftermarket oil cooler or copy someone else's known good DIY solution (if not too involved). Seems the Mishimoto is viable.

My max temps:

 

[Cobra Jet]

I'm sure everyone has seen this, but I'll post it here anyways for the reference:

it's unclear from pictures, but it seems that the rads are reasonably ducted. of course there is this hood vent for heat extraction. ultimately, it seems that #6 and #7 are really critical for this last bit of cooling, after ducting and venting are solved.

@Twizzty , you have a beautiful car and ultimate track weapon. pricewise, it's a no-brainer for the track duty, and I agree with you regarding mach 1 pricing - it's crazy. here in Canada, base Mach 1 with handling package and cloth recaros is $14k CAD over 1SS 1LE. In fact, this mach 1 is almost the same price as base ZL1, and Premium Mach 1 is tapping into ZL1 1LE territory. the problem at least for me is in that camaro design. I prefer to look at the mustang so much more, both inside and outside. and since my car is also my garage queen, weekend toy and daily driver during warm weather, I do want to try to make it work with doing the mods.

I keep seeing the images posted on here in various threads of the above GT500 electric fan. But what I don’t see or can’t find are the specs on it.

Does anyone know what the CFM (cubic feet per minute) is of that fan - and is the CFM based on the high or low speed?

CFM’s are also key to keeping any rad core cool. The higher the CFM, the cooler you can keep the rad core.

The other important thing with any electric fan shroud is that a high quality fan will have the integrated “flaps” as seen on the GT500 shroud. Those flaps allow air pass through at certain speeds to reduce the pressure around the system.

Just as an example, on my 94 Cobra I have the SPAL dual 11” fan setup, where the shroud also has integrated flaps. This fan is rated at 2720 CFM (some specs show 2780), which is more than enough for a street application. I also have wired it into a aftermarket fan controller (but tapped into factory harnesses so it operates exactly as the stock unit did), but when the fans do come on, I also wired it so they come on at “high speed” even though the unit can do the gradient low to high operation.

I am very interested in the GT500 fan but am very curious as to it’s specs - can anyone get the CFM of that unit?

If some are having cooling difficulties, despite upgrading other components, changing t-stat, etc., look into upgrading the electric fan and compare CFM ratings, higher CFM is best and it may help.

 

[67Fast_V]

It does, thanks. And I mistook sealing and boxing to be equivalent.

I should think sealing is less of a project than boxing, but you spent 2 days on it??

Thanks for your scientific method and data collection, BTW. If sealing is worth 17F then I'll get right on that. Tips and photos?

Meanwhile my track day at Gingerman Monday caused me to slow down briefly a couple times. I was practicing paddle shifting more this event and because of this thread I shifted mostly at 6000 room.

I prefer to install a turnkey aftermarket oil cooler or copy someone else's known good DIY solution (if not too involved). Seems the Mishimoto is viable.

My max temps:

Glad it makes sense and is helpful. On the tips for sealing, go to post #96. That should get you started. The only thing I would change is the part A = 50% and part B is 50%. After I sealed the front and instrumented the system, it turned out that the front leaks are bigger than I originally thought. So instead of 30% of the total leak, it's more like 50%. To complete A+B, is 2 days. It's very tedious and takes time. There are leaks all over this system.

As far as the length of this thread, yes, I agree it's very long. I started in Oct 2021 with a question cus I was clueless on how a brand new GT w/ PP1 package could overheat really in only 3 mins on the track. Now 8 months later, there are answers.

After some advice from the Forum, inspections of the OEM cooling system, analysis, mods, and track time, I now have the cause and solution ... which is outline in the simplest possible form in post #278. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

Took 8 months to have enough data, mod time, and analysis to be able to make that chart ... and a lot of interesting discussion and additional data from other members along the way in this thread.

So whoever is reading this now and wants the bottom line (cause & solution for post 1), go to post #278. On long threads, I usually start at the end and back up.

Let me add this ... are there other solutions .... yes, absolutely. But none more effective in my opinion from a cost, weight, and simplicity perspective for the non-competition track focus. Now the wheel to wheel guys, they will need more than post #278.

On your temps, they don't look too bad. 240F CHT. But as you hammer it and as ambient changes, they will be increasing. Good Luck and have fun driving the car. I wanted that gauge cluster but couldn't afford. Cudos. Cheers.

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