Track Day Temperatures

[Jstang23]

You need at a minimum an R12/R10 combo for the track this is bare minimum to not kill yourself on a race track. Especially if you step out of a TW300 tires to anything even remotely fast. I currently run AR-1's with R12/R8 combo and the heat that the pads is facing are way over that 750 degrees though my track is very brake intensive. However there is a lot of time to be had with the better pads and fluid so I suggest you follow the advice here. Not only that but Hawk are way more aggressive to the brake disks so your consumables for disks will go up. It's inevitable for consumables to go up with speed but a good set of pads like GLoc will make a huge difference in your pads budget. Believe me I went through like 4 sets of oem pads before making the change and now on my second set of GLoc front pads since the R10's (800 degrees) were not enough to not overheat and believe me you don't want overheated brake pads on the track with that rock hard pedal.

I think that's a bit extreme... I agree if your track is brake intensive then it would be worth the money for dedicated track pads, but my track is not and has a lot of elevation change to allow me down naturally. I also learned how to race in spec miata, where if you were using your brakes too much you were losing, lol! My driving style in the mustang is pretty similar, so I think they will be alright.

I am also okay with slowing down, I am not there to break records or keep up with Porsches. If I feel my brakes on the edge I'll just slow down. I'll definitely keep you all updated on how they hold up!

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[RagmopInKona]

Has anyone done a test to see if removing the under hood insulation pad made any difference over a run?
Or on a tight track that you don't get past 100 mph much if removing the belly pans, helps get the heat out from under the car and transmission on a stock factory built gt?

 

[Jstang23]

Has anyone done a test to see if removing the under hood insulation pad made any difference over a run?
Or on a tight track that you don't get past 100 mph much if removing the belly pans, helps get the heat out from under the car and transmission on a stock factory built gt?

I have not, but I would be worried that removing the belly pans would screw up the aerodynamics of the car, or create low pressure zones where they shouldn't be.

 

[RagmopInKona]

I have not, but I would be worried that removing the belly pans would screw up the aerodynamics of the car, or create low pressure zones where they shouldn't be.

100 mph, MEH. You are not racing for a purse(money) more time on track = more seat time, I'd take a loss of top speed aerodynamics , To run longer without having to park it.
A base gt's belly pans are more for mpg than any performance gains.

 

[Jstang23]

100 mph, MEH. You are not racing for a purse(money) more time on track = more seat time, I'd take a loss of top speed aerodynamics , To run longer without having to park it.
A base gt's belly pans are more for mpg than any performance gains.

I hear you. But if it does create low pressure zones where there shouldn't be it will trap the hot air in and not let it out and end up making it worse.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I think that's a bit extreme... I agree if your track is brake intensive then it would be worth the money for dedicated track pads, but my track is not and has a lot of elevation change to allow me down naturally. I also learned how to race in spec miata, where if you were using your brakes too much you were losing, lol! My driving style in the mustang is pretty similar, so I think they will be alright.

I am also okay with slowing down, I am not there to break records or keep up with Porsches. If I feel my brakes on the edge I'll just slow down. I'll definitely keep you all updated on how they hold up!

If you're truly experienced in racing in SM then you will have a S550 PP into diff limp mode in ~5-8 minutes. After adding a diff cooler, it'll be reducing power due to CHT in ~10-12 minutes on track. You will destroy the brakes--even using "light braking" techniques--particularly the rear brakes. Yes, even attempting to run at 8-9/10ths.

 

[Jstang23]

If you're truly experienced in racing in SM then you will have a S550 PP into diff limp mode in ~5-8 minutes. After adding a diff cooler, it'll be reducing power due to CHT in ~10-12 minutes on track. You will destroy the brakes--even using "light braking" techniques--particularly the rear brakes. Yes, even attempting to run at 8-9/10ths.

I shifted at 6k rpms every time so I actually never really ran into any heat issues with CHT. With the 10 speed its got plenty of power that I don't really ever need passing anyone. I also never once overheated my diff in the 6 20 min sessions I had during the day. I have the 3.15 rear end which, if I'm not mistaken, is housed in aluminum compared to steel. So, it cools faster than its steel counterpart. I was racing at Atlanta Motorsports Park and was lapping consistent mid 1:36s. I did reach the limit of my brakes towards the end of the day, yes but they were stock and with stock brake fluid. You can absolutely race at a good pace without destroying pads with a 750 degree limit.

Again, not setting any lap records here, nor am I trying to push the absolute limits of this car. If I were I would absolutely buy race pads and rotors. The pads will be more than sufficient, especially once I add all the ducting for extra brake cooling!

Cheers!

 

[GTP]

@Jstang23 if you have PP front control arms then you can bolt on my brake air deflector vanes. They drop your front rotor temp ~100deg. They have been found to be more effective than ducting. No risk of tangled duct tubes. Easy install too. Check my sig.

 

[Biggsy]

Just want to say GTP’s brake vanes are the truth. I overheated my GLOC R12s at Summit Point. Added the cooling vanes and it was never an issue again.

 

[Jstang23]

I did not buy the performance package unfortunately. But my car has some parts on it that are definitely from the PP package. I had a thread about this earlier and we came to the conclusion that ford was using some parts from the new 24 model on the later production 23 models. I'll check!

 

[GTP]

Look for the 3 tapped bosses on the control arm.

If missing then I can send you a set that has holes for U-bolts.

 

[GTP]

Yesterday I tried to do a 45 minute run at a members-only open track day. I was the only car on track for the second half of that run. At the 38min mark I got the "axle over temp" message for the first time ever.

Guess I've put off the diff cooling mod long enough.

 

[Ewheels]

Yesterday I tried to do a 45 minute run at a members-only open track day. I was the only car on track for the second half of that run. At the 38min mark I got the "axle over temp" message for the first time ever.

Guess I've put off the diff cooling mod long enough.

How often are you really going to be doing 40 min sessions though? If it's not a problem for the standard 20 minutes, you probably could pass on the extra expense and weight of a diff cooler.

Unless you plan on doing actual endurance racing, I'd say there is little need for one.

 

[GTP]

I think you're right.
Unless some 95F ambient track day triggers it before the 30min mark.

And there is something to be said about not overheating the diff oil anyway. Changing every 6 events probably mitigates that.

BTW I park over a battery shop fan next to the diff in between sessions. Works great.

 

[GTP]

I reviewed the RaceChrono data and it showed that I overheated at around 31 minutes.

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