Track Day Temperatures

[Biggsy]

I use water wetter to help with temps

Sponsored

 

[Jstang23]

I think that you should be fine. I've run a similar tight track in Pitt Race at much warmer ambient temps with similar outing times and have no issues with limp mode or anything else. Park it, pop the hood, let cool down between sessions and then do the next one. I do have the Brembo's though and a friend does not. He seemed to have some braking issues in latter sessions, which I did not experience.

Great! I have decided to keep the 4 pots stock for now. I got used to the two pots on my older mustang and got pretty good at massaging the brakes for the entire day. This car is a lot heavier so we'll see. I'm not concerned about having to take it slower for a lap or two to keep my brakes okay. Also with the rotors now fixed and the vents facing the right way I'm interested to see how they hold up!

 

[1958cyclist]

Great! I have decided to keep the 4 pots stock for now. I got used to the two pots on my older mustang and got pretty good at massaging the brakes for the entire day. This car is a lot heavier so we'll see. I'm not concerned about having to take it slower for a lap or two to keep my brakes okay. Also with the rotors now fixed and the vents facing the right way I'm interested to see how they hold up!

I have another friend with a S197 four pot who just changes out to quasi, or race pads in front for track days and he's a much faster driver than I, and has no issues. I think it may be more the pads than the rotors in his case.

 

[GTP]

Hey guys!

I have my first track day this weekend with my new GT and I just wanted to ask a few questions. The car is a 2023 non-PP GT 10AT. The event is at the Atlanta Motorsports Park, which is a smaller and tighter course. Max speed will probably be around 100-110 mph if I'm pushing it hard. The ambient temperature is looking like a high of 75 degrees F. I'll be running 6 20 minute sessions. I will not be driving it flat out as this is my daily driver. I would assume 7/10ths.

1.) What cylinder head temperatures should I be okay with? 205-225? At what point should I slow down or even stop?

2.) Any advice to keep the car as cool as possible while on track?

If you drive in Novice group and with an instructor, he/she may want you to take it easy, which sounds like your 7/10 plan anyway. So you are not likely to overheat any of the systems, although it may be close.

As for the A10, you can let it auto shift in Sport or Track mode. Sometimes you have to coax it with throttle to get it to respond again if you have been following slower traffic. Or you can paddle shift all the time. When you floor it on the straights it will shift at redline. When the trans seems to be acting funny, such as going in taller/slower gears, and flashing the gear# during downshifts, that is simply the clue that your CHT is too hot.

Go to gauge setup, and choose axle, CHT, and trans, and then display the 3 gauges in the center (only if digital display).

Having said all this, I would monitor your front brake temps after each session for appearance, smell, and temp (if you have something for that). Non-PP brake pads may not hold up through the whole afternoon, and you will find out with a pucker moment going into turn 1! You probably have just enough time to receive some track-worthy pads for your 4-pots from RockAuto if you order today.

 

[Jstang23]

If you drive in Novice group and with an instructor, he/she may want you to take it easy, which sounds like your 7/10 plan anyway. So you are not likely to overheat any of the systems, although it may be close.

As for the A10, you can let it auto shift in Sport or Track mode. Sometimes you have to coax it with throttle to get it to respond again if you have been following slower traffic. Or you can paddle shift all the time. When you floor it on the straights it will shift at redline. When the trans seems to be acting funny, such as going in taller/slower gears, and flashing the gear# during downshifts, that is simply the clue that your CHT is too hot.

Go to gauge setup, and choose axle, CHT, and trans, and then display the 3 gauges in the center (only if digital display).

Having said all this, I would monitor your front brake temps after each session for appearance, smell, and temp (if you have something for that). Non-PP brake pads may not hold up through the whole afternoon, and you will find out with a pucker moment going into turn 1! You probably have just enough time to receive some track-worthy pads for your 4-pots from RockAuto if you order today.

I agree, its definitely the pads, but the fixed rotors will help them cool off faster. The plan was to leave the car fully stock for this first track day. I want to use this as a baseline and then go out and buy the right parts the first time. So if I get to the point where my brakes overheat I'll just order a set of the GT350 brembos and call it a day. Same goes with handlings upgrades and cooling upgrades!

I always drive in "manual" mode while tracking. I like to short shift during some corners to carry more speed out of the turn sometimes. I am also definitely not going balls to the walls. This is too nice of a car for me to justify going as fast as I can. Also I've got to drive home afterwards

 

[1958cyclist]

I agree, its definitely the pads, but the fixed rotors will help them cool off faster. The plan was to leave the car fully stock for this first track day. I want to use this as a baseline and then go out and buy the right parts the first time. So if I get to the point where my brakes overheat I'll just order a set of the GT350 brembos and call it a day. Same goes with handlings upgrades and cooling upgrades!

I always drive in "manual" mode while tracking. I like to short shift during some corners to carry more speed out of the turn sometimes. I am also definitely not going balls to the walls. This is too nice of a car for me to justify going as fast as I can. Also I've got to drive home afterwards

I've approached upgrades in a similar fashion, big wheels and tires, then stiffer, lower springs, camber plates, and finally sway bars. Like anything else, one can take this as far as one wants to, but like you, I wanted to keep the car as close to stock in appearance at least as possible, and I think I'm there. The rest is driver skill, which I liken to a dating process.

Increasing speed as one feels comfortable doing over time. A good way to do this is to first learn the track and how the car reacts to it, then gradually increase speeds as you become more comfortable with how the car responds. Having a good instructor is also very well worth the extra $$$. They can provide at provide valuable feedback.

I still recall my first track day, when learning how to brake...yes brake...was task number one. How often in a road driving environment does one threshold brake...the answer...almost never. So how would this experience be something that bring to your first track day? Plus, with the Brembos, and I'll say it now, these are fantastic brakes, one has no idea what they're capable of...but it's sure amazing to find out!

Have fun and enjoy. It's a fantastic learning experience. You'll learn more about yourself and your car than you will in any other environment.

 

[Jstang23]

This will actually be my 23rd track day Spent time in spec miata and formula 1600 so I'm not sure how much I'll learn about myself but definitely learn how to drive this heavy car!

 

[Egparson202]

This will actually be my 23rd track day Spent time in spec miata and formula 1600 so I'm not sure how much I'll learn about myself but definitely learn how to drive this heavy car!

I was in a similar situation having a lot of laps in a lighter/less powerful car. Adjustments in braking and throttle application were definitely in order. Enjoy!

 

[Jstang23]

Hey guys I'd like to post an update after I finished my first HPDE in the GT. Again to restate this is a 2023, 4 pot brakes, 3.15 rear end, 10AT. The track I went to is the Atlanta Motorsports Park, which is a 2 mile, very technical course. Only one place to really open her up and I hit a top speed of 112 on the main straight.

I had a few rules for myself. Don't exceed 225 CHT. Don't exceed 215 TOT. Shift at 6.5k rpms.

Good:

1.) The transmission never overheated. In fact, it never got above 201 degrees. I was very happy with this!

2.) The oil never overheated. I was on the upper end of the green but not touching the yellow.

3.) The performance pack wheels with MPS4S offered a lot of front end grip, only got sideways one time and that's because my tires heated to 40 PSI!

Bad:

1.) The CHT was annoying. During the morning sessions where the ambient was at 70 degrees and cloudy I held a steady 215 degrees. But during the afternoon sessions where the ambient was 79 and sunny I would slowly creep up to 223 and I'd have to let off and cool back down for a half lap. I would open up the hood after each session and it cooled off rather nicely each time.

2.) The 4 pot brakes got hot. I never boiled the fluid or actually lost any braking power but I could smell them. I was definitely riding the edge of their capability and was my biggest limiting factor. At the end of the main straight I was nervous to threshold brake as I was not confident in them. I feel like you could definitely do several rounds of that and be fine, but they weren't confidence inspiring, so I'll likely be buying some track pads and dedicated rotors.

Okay:

1.) The suspension was definitely floaty. On a mountain road or even autocross the suspension is great but carrying all that weight with that much speed on a track you notice it real quick.

Last thoughts:

I was probably going 7-8/10ths most of the day. I ended up getting moved to Blue group after my second session (wanted the instruction so I can get good at this track). I feel like my first upgrade will be dedicated track pads and rotors. Then, a strut and cowl brace and maybe a set of the track pack coilovers. I feel like my cooling was overall pretty good and with better brakes and better suspension I'll be able to carry more speed into the turns so I don't have to rely on my engine to get me back up to speed, increasing heat.

This is also never going to be a full track car. It is my daily driver and I will never drive it flat out. As always the goal of the day is to come home with a functioning car and body!

 

[slowdown]

Hey guys I'd like to post an update after I finished my first HPDE in the GT. Again to restate this is a 2023, 4 pot brakes, 3.15 rear end, 10AT. The track I went to is the Atlanta Motorsports Park, which is a 2 mile, very technical course. Only one place to really open her up and I hit a top speed of 112 on the main straight.

I had a few rules for myself. Don't exceed 225 CHT. Don't exceed 215 TOT. Shift at 6.5k rpms.

Good:

1.) The transmission never overheated. In fact, it never got above 201 degrees. I was very happy with this!

2.) The oil never overheated. I was on the upper end of the green but not touching the yellow.

3.) The performance pack wheels with MPS4S offered a lot of front end grip, only got sideways one time and that's because my tires heated to 40 PSI!

Bad:

1.) The CHT was annoying. During the morning sessions where the ambient was at 70 degrees and cloudy I held a steady 215 degrees. But during the afternoon sessions where the ambient was 79 and sunny I would slowly creep up to 223 and I'd have to let off and cool back down for a half lap. I would open up the hood after each session and it cooled off rather nicely each time.

2.) The 4 pot brakes got hot. I never boiled the fluid or actually lost any braking power but I could smell them. I was definitely riding the edge of their capability and was my biggest limiting factor. At the end of the main straight I was nervous to threshold brake as I was not confident in them. I feel like you could definitely do several rounds of that and be fine, but they weren't confidence inspiring, so I'll likely be buying some track pads and dedicated rotors.

Okay:

1.) The suspension was definitely floaty. On a mountain road or even autocross the suspension is great but carrying all that weight with that much speed on a track you notice it real quick.

Last thoughts:

I was probably going 7-8/10ths most of the day. I ended up getting moved to Blue group after my second session (wanted the instruction so I can get good at this track). I feel like my first upgrade will be dedicated track pads and rotors. Then, a strut and cowl brace and maybe a set of the track pack coilovers. I feel like my cooling was overall pretty good and with better brakes and better suspension I'll be able to carry more speed into the turns so I don't have to rely on my engine to get me back up to speed, increasing heat.

This is also never going to be a full track car. It is my daily driver and I will never drive it flat out. As always the goal of the day is to come home with a functioning car and body!

There's a reason I see a lot of Mustangs at the track that are not "tracked out". You can have a blast with them in any configuration as long as you are sensible about what the car can and cannot do based on how it's set up. I still say if you are going to do occasional track days with the car after updating pads, brake fluid and rotors is to just pick up a second set of wheels with tires for the track to swap out for track days from your DD street setup.

 

[Jstang23]

There's a reason I see a lot of Mustangs at the track that are not "tracked out". You can have a blast with them in any configuration as long as you are sensible about what the car can and cannot do based on how it's set up. I still say if you are going to do occasional track days with the car after updating pads, brake fluid and rotors is to just pick up a second set of wheels with tires for the track to swap out for track days from your DD street setup.

I'd actually like to give a little update to that information!

I ended up slightly boiling the stock brake fluid. I realized this two days after the track day when my brake pedal still felt spongy. I replaced the stock brake fluid with RBF660. I have decided to keep the stock rotors and get a good set of hybrid pads, either Hawk HPS 5.0 or a carbotech variant. In addition, I will be getting a set of stainless steel brake lines. I feel more than confident this will be enough for what I want to accomplish (just for fun) and will not set me back a ton of money and time replacing the brakes after each day.

As for the wheels and tires, after I run through this set of MPS4S I will be upgrading my wheels to M1 reps 19x10 and run a 295 square set up. This should give me plenty of grip, again for what I want to do with the car!

Cheers

 

[slowdown]

Cool man. Just keep in mind when you go 295 with good tires up front that bigger footprint means more heat under heavy braking as the front tires have more grip. I looked up those Hawk pads and the operating range tops out at 750F (550F optimal) which is a little low IMO. That's even low for a good autocross pad.

 

[Jstang23]

Cool man. Just keep in mind when you go 295 with good tires up front that bigger footprint means more heat under heavy braking as the front tires have more grip. I looked up those Hawk pads and the operating range tops out at 750F (550F optimal) which is a little low IMO. That's even low for a good autocross pad.

True!

If you have any other recommendations for a hybrid pad that would be better please let me know! I've looked into the full track pad set and I just don't have the time to switch them after every session.

 

[Biggsy]

I would recommend going with GLOC GS1 and any R compound of your choice. They can be used on same rotors. Then you get the new hammer free race brake hardware Tim at OP Mustang sells. All you would need to change pads is a 13mm wrench for the cross bolt. Can literally change both sides in 10 minutes

Just my thoughts

 

[slowdown]

True!

If you have any other recommendations for a hybrid pad that would be better please let me know! I've looked into the full track pad set and I just don't have the time to switch them after every session.

Ah man that's a rabbit hole. Maybe check out the GS1 Street Pads by GLoc

https://www.g-locbrakes.com/products/brake-compounds/

I would trust their ambient operating temp ratings more than Hawk (They are rated 250F more than the pads you mentioned). Note: they say these are not track pads but either way they are far superior to OEM.

Sponsored