Torsen diff. vs. Track-Loc

[TeeLew]

I hate to hijack this thread but I have a dumb question about the Track-Loc LSD. Do the track-loc diff clutches wear out from just normal daily driving (no hotrodding or spinning of wheels)? Or do they only wear out when you do powerslides, burnouts, hard accel in turns, etc? I'm just wondering what the life of a Track-Loc is when it's driven gently.

It'll last forever if you don't use it. They measure the life in 'traction events.' If you get big inside rear wheelspin, that's a traction event. If you do that maybe 20-30 times, it starts to wear the friction material on the plate faces and we lose the preload in the diff. Once the preload is out, then the wheelspin starts to turn into a self-propagating problem.

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[TeeLew]

Thank you. I had a trutrac in my 03 cobra a few years back and it was awesome. Launched the heck out of it off a 2 step and slicks and it never skipped a beat, also super quiet on the street.

I think Eaton makes some good stuff. They have a ramp-style diff that'd be great to try, but it's not made for us.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I hate to hijack this thread but I have a dumb question about the Track-Loc LSD. Do the track-loc diff clutches wear out from just normal daily driving (no hotrodding or spinning of wheels)? Or do they only wear out when you do powerslides, burnouts, hard accel in turns, etc? I'm just wondering what the life of a Track-Loc is when it's driven gently.

They wear out a bit every time you go round a corner, no matter how gently.

 

[Vlad Soare]

How hard is it to replace the factory Trac-lok with a Torsen, assuming you don't intend to change anything else (i.e. keep the same final ratio and all)? Is it a straight, plug & play fit? Just open up the differential housing, take out the old diff, insert the new one, the end? Or is it more involved than that? What parts would be needed besides the differential itself?

 

[RagmopInKona]

How hard is it to replace the factory Trac-lok with a Torsen, assuming you don't intend to change anything else (i.e. keep the same final ratio and all)? Is it a straight, plug & play fit? Just open up the differential housing, take out the old diff, insert the new one, the end? Or is it more involved than that? What parts would be needed besides the differential itself?

I'd assume you'd have to set up the diff , just like anyother, gear backlash, etc. but never worked on this rear, mostly 9" Fords and !2 bolt Chevies.

 

[WD Pro]

It'll last forever if you don't use it. They measure the life in 'traction events.' If you get big inside rear wheelspin, that's a traction event. If you do that maybe 20-30 times, it starts to wear the friction material on the plate faces and we lose the preload in the diff. Once the preload is out, then the wheelspin starts to turn into a self-propagating problem.

I cleaned up my plugs and there was actually a lot more crap on them than I expected as the magnet is recessed, this is 2.5k of reasonably enthusiastic road miles :

How hard is it to replace the factory Trac-lok with a Torsen, assuming you don't intend to change anything else (i.e. keep the same final ratio and all)? Is it a straight, plug & play fit? Just open up the differential housing, take out the old diff, insert the new one, the end? Or is it more involved than that? What parts would be needed besides the differential itself?

There is a fitting / rebuild kit (that contains shims and the crush sleeve) :

I'm not sure it could be done without that as the exact tolerance of the carrier couldn't be guaranteed from one unit to another (therefore affecting the gear meshing).

WD

 

[Vlad Soare]

There is a fitting / rebuild kit (that contains shims and the crush sleeve) :

Where can I get this kit from? Does Ford sell it? Do you happen to have a part number?

 

[WD Pro]

Where can I get this kit from? Does Ford sell it? Do you happen to have a part number?

You might be able to get this stuff separately, but this is what I got :

WD

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