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Torsen vs. Trac-Lock

mikeyjobu

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So there is much discussion about this gear ratio versus that - I don't see anyone discussing the merits of the Torsen differential verson the standard LSD (I assume it's a Traction LOC?). Both are LSD's -- so what gives, gears notwithstanding? I've been reading up here on wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsen

What type of torsen is the torsen, and is the standard LSD in fact also some kind of torsen? Other than all the other durability and brake upgrades in the GT PP, why wouldn't someone just do a gear swap with the standard differential? Is it just another durability upgrade plus the swap of the gearset?

Please discuss...
Thanks!
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Mountain376

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The "standard" LSD that comes in the Mustangs is a clutch type, called "Trac-Lok". A clutch type LSD is very versatile: more than sufficient for daily driving, good off-roading and, arguably, O.K. For track use. Their locking characteristics are adjustable through the type (material) clutches used, clutch preload and differential lubrication. However, the clutches eventually wear and they generally don't do as good of a job torque-basing as a gear type LSD.

The Torsen is a gear type LSD and is, based off the previous Mustangs Torsen, a derivative of the Torsen T2, just beefed up for durability. A gear type LSD is slightly less versatile, but has some very nice qualities: they are great for daily driving, they don't wear out like the clutch types (it takes a long time to wear them out unless your car is a race car), they do a better job of torque-basing (so, they work seamless with traction and stability control and provide better traction when one wheel is able to slip more than the other) and they can allow your differential to run slightly cooler since you don't have the constant clutch slip. Their locking characteristics are design in to the gear design, but lubrication can provide minor adjustments. The down sides of them is they can be less robust than a clutch type (the Mustang version is completely fine - I'd be surprised if you broke it), they can be a tad more noises (almost negligible) and they are worthless if at least one wheel has zero force load (basically, if one wheel goes airborne and other doesn't; not really an issue unless you go off-roading).
 

Mountain376

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By the way, I've had both. My current car has a True-Trac (gear type) and I'd never go back to a clutch type. Works better on gravely pavement, in the rain and in the little snow the car sees. It also allows you to apply more throttle coming out of turns on the track and, from what I've found, makes the car easier to handle when the rear gets squirrely.
 
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mikeyjobu

mikeyjobu

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Mountain - thanks so much - very informative!
 

Murdered Out Pony

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Thanks for the posts Mountain
 

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Mountain376

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No problem.
 

Bahndvr

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Is the 2015 Mustang Torsen 3:1?
 

Stuntman

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The stock "clutch type" traction-LoK is very weak and IMO not strong enough for a 5.0. They can die within a day or two of track use which is why if you're into performance driving atall, the torsen alone makes the perfoamance package worth it. Although the 6piston calipers are also a nice addition.

The traction-lok is nowhere near as good as a proper (Salisbury) clutch type diff with ramps that squeeze the clutch plates as load increases -which is what pretty much all racecars use due to their performance and tuneability.

A good torsen is hard to beat for a street car. The T2R and Eaton TruTrak are great units that have been proven over the years, but I'm not sure how the factory torsen stacks up. Either way, while the traction-lok works well at first, it wears out very quickly and becomes an open diff.

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