Mine say specifically to store at the zero set point as storing it under load may alter the calibration over timeI don't know if this is true or not important. I was told to store the click style unloaded, meaning at their zero set point.
Yes ALWAYS set to 0 after use on click style torque wrenches. Otherwise you will need to take it in to have it calibrated.I don't know if this is true or not important. I was told to store the click style unloaded, meaning at their zero set point.
Got a pic or a link? Is it the $600 one JetGray mentioned above?
I hear you, it is very expensive. But look at it this way. You will more than likely have to replace that torque wrench in a couple years anyway, or at least have it sent off to be calibrated. You buy a snap-on you never have to worry about that. In fact, I believe they even send you a new one if its out of calibration. I work on some of my own cars too, I'm not doing anything crazy but especially with my track cars, I want the torque to be right every time. I don't want to leave anything up to chance when I'm on track. Think of it as cheap insurance!Snap-on is $600. Too much, I do work on my own cars but that is probably more appropriate for a mechanic that uses it daily. About this craftsman? Up to $300 is a good price I would say don't want cheap junk either.
Hi,What torque wrenches do you all use? I'm using this guy. Just noticed it's missing a screw in the ratchet head. It's pretty old and the torque spec indentations are somewhat vague. I use it for lugs, brakes, hubs, oil filter and other random DIY maintenance. Not rebuilding engines or swapping heads. Any trusted brands or models any of you gear heads can throw my way? I'd like to invest in both a ½" and a ⅜ drive wrench.
That's still a click style. For 220 bucks I'd much rather spend 80 more dollars to get the craftsman digital torque wrench.
It will definitely be sufficient for that job! The only thing I'd hate is that when torquing the caliper bolts back on, the gauge will be very difficult to read, especially if you don't have a lift. Hence why I like my digital wrench, I set it and then I don't need to see it just wait to hear the beep!Thanks for all your help gents. I went with this set for a few reasons, quality, arrives tomorrow, price, can return it easily if it sucks, don't need to reset it to zero for storage, flexible head, can recalibrate and recommendations.
If it ends up sucking or not being good, I'm going with a digital click craftsman. I'll let all know how it works on an upcoming GT350R brake job.
It’s hard to say, since that style has been copied now, but if that’s made by Precision Instruments then you’ll be happy with them. I have the old Snap On that is that style, which was made by PI and even at 13 years old it’s still dead on. I had it checked last year just to see and it came back with a calibration card and a note saying no changes were needed.Thanks for all your help gents. I went with this set for a few reasons, quality, arrives tomorrow, price, can return it easily if it sucks, don't need to reset it to zero for storage, flexible head, can recalibrate and recommendations.
If it ends up sucking or not being good, I'm going with a digital click craftsman. I'll let all know how it works on an upcoming GT350R brake job.
They husky one is the one I have been using for years. I question the accuracy though, which is why I am going with the Craftsman digital torque wrench.
