To Coilover Or Not

[EFI]

wouldn't bother me to toss it and find something better. I guess I'll put my focus on cooling and braking. Are the stock 6 pistons holding up well on track?

I got my Mishimoto radiator for under $400 new on black friday. Not sure how much you paid for your PP one, but keep an eye out for those types of deals.

The 6 piston brakes with good fluid and cooling (PP bellypan and deflectors) will be solid, you won't have an issue with anytime soon. I went with the GT350 calipers and the Caliperfexion studs and was still cheaper than the GTPP setup. Odd, but for some reason those calipers cost more.

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[bnightstar]

If I were you I would go past the PP radiator and into something like fluidyne/Kenny Brown 3 pass radiator much better then the OEM PP radiator which is having problems cooling even the stock motor (mine is having problems). For the 305 tires you only need Camber Plates and better springs/shocks (which you already has) maybe change springs for BMR083 springs but overall no need for expensive coilovers. You do need to adress this front brakes though look for 6 piston brembos + master cylinder of a PP1 in order to improve your braking. So with that in Mind here is what i would do if I were you:

1. 6 piston Brembos + PP1 Master cylinder (best bet is to look for a kit from Shelby America they often sell them cheap).
2. Fluidyne / Kenny Brown radiator (you need this to protect your motor)
3. Camber Plates (Vorshlag, MM or Steeda)
4. If needed BMR 083 springs

This are like 2000$ mods which will make your car much more capable then before especially with 305/30 tires all around and you will have a lot of fun with it. After you see where the limit is (and with 700 hp this limit will be really hard to reach) start addressing other issues as they come like wheel hubs, lug nuts and brake pads

 

[shogun32]

Steeda mentioned 250 or 275 pound but that seemed too light, I was considering 350 or 375. It's not my daily so I don't mind a little harsher ride. I believe my current rate is around 300 and it rolls a little more than I'd like in a hard turn, part of why I'm considering the swap to coilovers.

of the two 275 is the correct answer. 350 is their dual-rate territory. The rebound valving in the Steeda coil-over (it's just the same Koni-derivative with a different spring mount) can handle that, just.

The ride isn't harsh at all actually (I have the dual-rates) it's just VERY firm and kicks the car around more than it should and the smaller 'wavy' bumps the car hobby-horses over instead of the wheels moving and leaving the chassis unaffected. You get used to it but for DD I find it still annoying.

I do not particularly like the LACK of chassis tilt in cornering with the Steeda front bar. I don't subscribe to the flat-ride theory. True you don't want so much that you drag parts and unweight the opposite corner excessively...

You should pull a @EmCel and drive up here to NoVA and take my car for a spin and see for yourself.

I'm working with Fortune Auto (Richmond VA) to put together a 3-way adjustable setup for the S550. Though if you want a tried and true setup today, MCS or JRI is the right answer.

 

[Dana Pants]

yeah the prices on the good coilover options is why I'm still on normal springs over cheaper shocks

I'm kicking ass with just Koni yellows and the Steeda Ultimate Dual Rate springs (350# front rate). Ride on the street is a lot busier than my friends car with expensive custom coilovers and stiffer 500# front springs, but he paid 2x what I paid for his setup.

I’m surprised that you like the dual rates. Every time I’ve autocrossed a dual rate setup it felt like the suspension was broken. Super floaty I’m the middle followed by “hitting a wall” when you get into the higher rate.

 

[shogun32]

Super floaty I’m the middle followed by “hitting a wall” when you get into the higher rate.

what were your rebound settings?

 

[Dana Pants]

what were your rebound settings?

not my cars, so I can’t really comment. You point seems valid that lots of rebound reduces the issue.

 

[shogun32]

not my cars, so I can’t really comment. You point seems valid that lots of rebound reduces the issue.

I had to crank the ProActions up to 1/8 to 1/4 turn from fully closed at the rear and 1/2 turn from fully closed on the front. There's not near enough rebound valving on those shocks for the DR springs

 

[Flyhalf]

So I started autocrossing my Fiesta ST last year and want to get into some HPDE and autocross events with my Mustang. I already have some suspension upgrades (Steeda sway bars, eibach pro kit springs, koni special active struts/shocks, a bunch of other little things) and now I'm getting ready to put a 305 square setup on it. I need camber plates but now I'm wondering if I should just replace my springs with Steeda coilovers. Is it worth it? If so, which spring rate is best for a balance between street (mountain roads) and occasional track?

Short answer. No. U don't need them.
A coilovers won't make you faster. Will allow u to improve the car with aero.
Yes. Little better valving so you can " feel it?" Maybe. A good coilover is 3-4 grand. If you really wanna get faster...use racers360.com.
Onlime coaching where a professional driver or coach analize your run and help you to improve. It works. A lot.
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So ifmyou really want to spend 3000$ do 30 coaching session.

 

[NightmareMoon]

not my cars, so I can’t really comment. You point seems valid that lots of rebound reduces the issue.

Strange. Dana, had you tried the Steeda 'ultimate' dual rates (whatever they're calling them) or some other dual rates?

I'd compare them more to a linear stiff spring with a helper spring, which isn't uncommon for a coilover setup.

I wouldn't describe these as floaty at all. Maybe I'm just used to it. Its not perfect. Sometimes it feels a little bit floppy when driving hard at 10/10ths, but I really blame the tired abused Koni shocks, and the floppyness doesn't seem to overload the tires so I keep driving it. Car is getting great results at events, even with codrivers unfamiliar with the chassis. I've had 8 other drivers in the car in the last year or so and people haven't really complained much, almost to a person they seem to be able to put down pretty good times in it (sometimes to my frustration).

I keep the shocks a little bit stiffer in the front than the rear, just a little biased. Of course swaybars are in there to help transfer weight quickly.

 

[Dana Pants]

Strange. Dana, had you tried the Steeda 'ultimate' dual rates (whatever they're calling them) or some other dual rates?

they weren’t Steeda I am sure, so I wouldn’t dig into it too much deeper. If your springs work for you and co-drivers, that’s great, enjoy it.

 

[Jackson1320]

I have a set of sr coilovers I got them as a open box deal from A/M for $299.00 and now I know why. Regular price $1100 I would really be pist if I paid that . with front springs 448lb rear springs 470lb. I also have some progressive springs front 375-550 rear 400-600 but no matter what I did they are garbage

 

[shogun32]

I have a set of sr coilovers I got them as a open box deal from A/M for $299.00 ... but no matter what I did they are garbage

What brand? You can have them rebuilt with Bilstein internals and use a divorced spring in the rear. So they aren't completely worthless.

 

[qtrracer]

I run the KW v3s on my s550, and Bilstein HDs on my 86 CAM-C car. In my experience, adjustables can be a pain. You really have to understand rebound/compression graphs. I kept a record on my KW settings for a whole season of A/X and OT time. The problem with both is that there wasn't enough time after an A/X run to take tire temps and reset the dampers if needed. Ultimately, I found two settings I liked for street and A/X, and just moved them as necessary. Then I changed tires and we had to do this all over again. Not worth it to me unless you are going for national wins. Moreover, "inexpensive" C/Os adjustables do not have enough resolution to be effective for a novice driver, and "expensive" ones tend to have so much resolution actually feeling the difference is difficult. This latter problem I have with the KWs.

Generally, A/X at the novice level is not where one should spend resources on suspension tuning. The car is pretty good as it sits. A good set of HD Bils (I guess there are the B6s for s550s) are more than fine at the novice level. Spend your time and resources in the seat pushing the car to its limits (BTW, the car will find your limits first). Believe me when I say your s550 is way more capable in stock trim than your skill level even if you're a budding talent.

 

[TeeLew]

...it's just VERY firm and kicks the car around more than it should and the smaller 'wavy' bumps the car hobby-horses over instead of the wheels moving and leaving the chassis unaffected. You get used to it but for DD I find it still annoying.

what were your rebound settings?

 

[3rdRGR]

I've got coil overs with a slight drop and no magnaride. I just started getting a "noise" in my front right corner. I only really hear it when I go over a speed bump which I take at really low speeds anyway, but that's when it's really noticeable. Almost a creaky sound. Nothing really feels loose driving, even at high speeds, it just started on me and I know this is really a stab in the dark, but wondering if anyone has any ideas on where to start. Even though I've got a Ford Extended Warranty (I'm over 36 months), I think I'm on my own due to it being a Roush suspension. So any ideas would be appreciated.

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