This GD False Knock...

[Ultrakla$$ic]

When it's in the negatives you car is adding timing(atleast thats what I understand it as) so negatives are a GOOD thing. When it's above zero is when you are having issue and the car's not making the power it should. Either from Detonation, Shitty fuel, oil blow-by or false knock from exhaust rubbing etc.

Thanks! Gonna check mine now.

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[Ultrakla$$ic]

What's the exact PID I should be looking at??

KNOCKR??

 

[markmurfie]

After tuning out the knock did you feel any difference in the car?

 

[Obsol3te]

What's the exact PID I should be looking at??

KNOCKR??

Not sure, i dont have an NGuage. I used my sct x4. my datalog and programmer(while in car) just says Knock and shows current knock and min/max values. I can look at the entire datalog once i hook up the laptop

 

[Obsol3te]

After tuning out the knock did you feel any difference in the car?

It's cold man, and the pirelli's dont hook regardless. I broke loose having fun on the way home on the 3-4 shift in 43º weather. Literally went sideways for a second until it hooked going like 90...(or whatever it is at the top of 3rd) Can't really mess around with the car too much until it warms up a little. Trying to make the shitty stock pirelli's last.

 

[markmurfie]

It's cold man, and the pirelli's dont hook regardless. I broke loose having fun on the way home on the 3-4 shift in 43º weather. Literally went sideways for a second until it hooked going like 90...(or whatever it is at the top of 3rd) Can't really mess around with the car too much until it warms up a little. Trying to make the shitty stock pirelli's last.

Ah gotcha I get spoiled living in the tropics.

 

[Obsol3te]

Ah gotcha I get spoiled living in the tropics.

must be nice. The car felt strong before. But it wasnt making power on the dyno(I KNOW... ITS JUST A NUMBER) but it is a tool to monitor mods etc. I looked into why it was only making X amount of power and found a reason behind it. I guess for the time being i could throw it back on the dyno and see if theres a difference. Hopefully i'll have some track times this year as well.

 

[markmurfie]

must be nice. The car felt strong before. But it wasnt making power on the dyno(I KNOW... ITS JUST A NUMBER) but it is a tool to monitor mods etc. I looked into why it was only making X amount of power and found a reason behind it. I guess for the time being i could throw it back on the dyno and see if theres a difference. Hopefully i'll have some track times this year as well.

I have no problem with dyno numbers. Its a measurement nothing wrong with that. Just have to understand not all dynos use the same scale. doesnt make the before and after measurement less accurate on the same dyno. Any actual dyno will be better than a butt dyno. Just wondered if you had knock and you re-tuned it to have less knock are you actually making it perform better or just making the numbers in the ECU happier. Either way KNOCK is bad but whats causing the knock can have a big difference or no difference in the end result when you figure out what makes the knock go away.

 

[highvoltage]

You consider 3.02 knock at 6800rpm bad? Thats nothing. My 5.0 in my f150 stock saw higher.

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[markmurfie]

You consider 3.02 knock at 6800rpm bad? Thats nothing. My 5.0 in my f150 stock saw higher.

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I consider any knock bad. It means the ECU is pulling x* from the total timing. I dont know how accurate this is but i once heard 1* can be as much as 10hp. get enough of that and you will feel a difference.

 

[highvoltage]

Well youre misinformed! A bit of positive knock is fine. And without it you leave power on the table!!

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[markmurfie]

Spoken just like a truly bad tuner.

 

[highvoltage]

You have no clue wtf your talking about buddy! Good luck missing out on power.

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[markmurfie]

Hmm okay. I'm going to try to explain the serious side of #YDBT Yolo douche bag tuning if you are not familiar. Let's say you have two cars one you tune and say start at 23* and push up till the knock sensors activate. The other you say just try to get to 29* and run all the time with 2-3* knock retard. When both cars get to 25,26,27* there is n no difference. Here is the thing tho after a year goes by and the knock sensors accrue the inherent error that electronic sensors all have. One car will just be making a little less power the other car will be forcing the engine to knock more. So if you are happy with the extra power you probably can't even register on a dyno between runs today. YOLO.

 

[highvoltage]

Let me put it in easy terms for you! You dont know what your talking about! But whatever helps you sleep at night!

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