Thinking of going coil modification (rear) which spring rate?

[Angrey]

I have the AJ Hartman conversion kit for the front that keeps magneride and it works like a charm.

Thinking of converting the rears. Currently on BMR lowering springs.

Which spring rate would closely match or equivocate the stock OEM settings? BMR spring rate settings?

AJ offers 900, 1000, 1100 and 1200.

Not looking to get too crazy, just want the flexibility to change the ride height depending on rear tire/wheel setups.

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[WItoTX]

What did AJ suggest? What are your fronts?

I have the 400s on the front of my car, and the rears are ~850. I would probably do the 900s, I feel like the rear really likes a softer spring, but there is a school of thought that more spring in the rear is better. I don't know that I agree, but I've only driven a couple S550's with 1200 lb springs in the rear. I didn't personally like it, but I also didn't get enough seat time to really get comfortable with it either.

Sorry, I realize my opinion doesn't help much.

 

[GregO]

I have the AJ Hartman conversion kit for the front that keeps magneride and it works like a charm.

Thinking of converting the rears. Currently on BMR lowering springs.

Which spring rate would closely match or equivocate the stock OEM settings? BMR spring rate settings?

AJ offers 900, 1000, 1100 and 1200.

Not looking to get too crazy, just want the flexibility to change the ride height depending on rear tire/wheel setups.

Post #1 has a spreadsheet link to all the spring rates.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/spring-rates-drops-all-in-one-thread.44925/#post-1084775

 

[JAJ]

I have the AJ Hartman conversion kit for the front that keeps magneride and it works like a charm.

Thinking of converting the rears. Currently on BMR lowering springs.

Which spring rate would closely match or equivocate the stock OEM settings? BMR spring rate settings?

AJ offers 900, 1000, 1100 and 1200.

Not looking to get too crazy, just want the flexibility to change the ride height depending on rear tire/wheel setups.

The 2015-2016 Owner's Supplement lists the factory spring rates. The stock 2016 GT350 fronts were 194 pounds per inch and the R fronts were 240. The rear springs were 914 pounds per inch on both.

What's your front spring rate now? If you're at 300 you might want to bump the rears to 1000 or even 1100 to balance the stiffer front end.

 

[GregO]

@Angrey
Have you done the rear lower control arm bearing swap ?

 

[JAJ]

@Angrey
Have you done the rear lower control arm bearing swap ?

Why? All the OP said he wanted to do was adjust the ride height.

 

[GregO]

Why? All the OP said he wanted to do was adjust the ride height.

He also asked about spring rates. The RLCA bearing changes things (for the better) so spring rates would need reevaluation if the OP did change the RLCA bearing or is considering changing it in the future.

 

[NGOT8R]

OP, are you running Magneride sensor deletes? I would think that you will need to, if changing ride heights.

I‘m on a different setup with my Magneride car, but I too have BMR rear springs (drag version) with Steeda 1/4” spacers (which only allow for 1/4 drop instead of 3/4 or more as BMR advertises). I’m also running aftermarket shocks.

FYI, if you’re thinking of going with SDE sensor deletes, I want to let you know that they didn’t work properly on my car, so I ended up making my own sensor deletes and they work perfectly. O codes at all ever since making and installing them.

 

[Angrey]

OP, are you running Magneride sensor deletes? I would think that you will need to, if changing ride heights.

I‘m on a different setup with my Magneride car, but I too have BMR rear springs (drag version) with Steeda 1/4” spacers (which only allow for 1/4 drop instead of 3/4 or more as BMR advertises). I’m also running aftermarket shocks.

FYI, if you’re thinking of going with SDE sensor deletes, I want to let you know that they didn’t work properly on my car, so I ended up making my own sensor deletes and they work perfectly. O codes at all ever since making and installing them.

I haven't had any issues with the magneride or height sensors. That's the advantage of going with the hartman kit. You get the convenience of adjustability with the coil over and it opens up the entire aftermarket for spring rate options but you still maintain the magneride.

I've been running his kit on the front for several months now with no issues.

I'm trying to run a drag pack with a larger tire in the rear and with the lowering springs, it's just too close for comfort. With the kit I'll be able to not only run different springs (one for street/track and one for drag pack set) but different heights. Obviously the height adjustability isn't infinite, both from the physical adjustment on the collars but also how much you can mess with the height before the computer wigs out. But I'm not talking inches here, more like fractions of an inch or less.

Just allows to fine tune the height (and spring rate). When I installed the whipple, obviously the additional weight on the front made it sit lower so I not only needed to go back to a taller spring, I wanted something a little stiffer to account for the additional weight on the front.

 

[Angrey]

He also asked about spring rates. The RLCA bearing changes things (for the better) so spring rates would need reevaluation if the OP did change the RLCA bearing or is considering changing it in the future.

I've changed the sway bar, end links, , springs, camber arms, etc, but nothing with the lower assembly.

 

[NGOT8R]

I haven't had any issues with the magneride or height sensors. That's the advantage of going with the hartman kit. You get the convenience of adjustability with the coil over and it opens up the entire aftermarket for spring rate options but you still maintain the magneride.

I've been running his kit on the front for several months now with no issues.

I'm trying to run a drag pack with a larger tire in the rear and with the lowering springs, it's just too close for comfort. With the kit I'll be able to not only run different springs (one for street/track and one for drag pack set) but different heights. Obviously the height adjustability isn't infinite, both from the physical adjustment on the collars but also how much you can mess with the height before the computer wigs out. But I'm not talking inches here, more like fractions of an inch or less.

Just allows to fine tune the height (and spring rate). When I installed the whipple, obviously the additional weight on the front made it sit lower so I not only needed to go back to a taller spring, I wanted something a little stiffer to account for the additional weight on the front.

Gotcha!

 

[GregO]

I've changed the sway bar, end links, , springs, camber arms, etc, but nothing with the lower assembly.

I haven’t done the RLCA bearing but I know a past member BmacIL personally and his opinion and review highly suggest installing BMR’s RLCA bearing. Lots of great posts from the early forum days about this.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...he-most-overlooked-piece-of-the-puzzle.36184/

 

[NGOT8R]

Do you have a pic of how your car sits now with the lowering springs?

Here’s mine with BMR drag springs and 1/4” Steeda spacers on 28.5 Hoosiers. I don’t have any rubbing issues (even when launching)..

 

[Angrey]

Do you have a pic of how your car sits now with the lowering springs?

Here’s mine with BMR drag springs and 1/4” Steeda spacers on 28.5 Hoosiers. I don’t have any rubbing issues (even when launching)..

 

[Angrey]

Picked up a set of forgelines that were priced too good to pass up (with MT's). I'm going to try to bring the car up a hair to not sit to low (these are 29" tall). I can also have the hub shaved about 5mm but I'd rather not do that if raising it will resolve the issue. And having the ability to swap out springs for my street/track setup and these is nice. With the coil overs, it looks like I can probably swap drag pack for street setup in about 30 minutes if I get it down and hustle.

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