Thermostat question

[kris5597]

If you want higher CHTs and think that higher temps is going to give you better performance

I'm not saying the higher temps will result in better performance, I am on board saying that the cooler temps could result in better performance as previously discussed. I'm just saying if cooler temps are what everyone is after, perhaps the thermostat is not the fix. I'll sure admit if I am wrong, I am just trying to provide some valid information to this discussion.

Kris

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[evo8904]

I'm not saying the higher temps will result in better performance, I am on board saying that the cooler temps could result in better performance as previously discussed. I'm just saying if cooler temps are what everyone is after, perhaps the thermostat is not the fix. I'll sure admit if I am wrong, I am just trying to provide some valid information to this discussion.

Kris

It probably is most beneficial on either heavily modified cars or if you plan to track your car a lot.

 

[GSLSE20B]

I used the 170 just for the stability . My CHTs were all over the place 190-215 . They are now between 189-190. After a hard run I've seen 198 ..

 

[Higgs Boson]

Here is my argument with the lower temp thermostat. It's only going to allow the opening point of the thermostat to be lower, but not actually make the engine run cooler during medium to higher load, at this point, it is up to the cooling system to regulate this, not the thermostat.

If you are beating on an engine the ECTs will reach a certain point until the coolant system, by design, takes control and keeps it below a certain temperature, at this point, most thermostats are already open and a lower temp stat is doing nothing at this point. Now if you are driving around normally, with low load on the engine, the lower temp thermostat will in fact keep the ECTs cooler than with a higher temperature thermostat. So the initial hit and first time you floor it, the ECTs will be cooler, for how long, I do not know, but I don't see it being a very long time until the ECTs shoot back up to what the coolant system will regulate it at.

What ECTs are you guys seeing after WOT pulls and during WOT pulls with the lower temp stats and with the factory stats?

This is a pretty decent read btw.

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/

Kris

This is incorrect.

A 195 thermostat opens gradually over 15-20 degrees and is fully open at 210-215.

A 170 opens gradually from 170-185. This means the low temps stat is flowing fully open maximum volume before the 195 is even open.....this constant max volume flow is going to prevent the temps from rising more unless you are putting real heat into the motor like a 30 minute road course race....at that point, yes the radiator is most likely the weak point then.

For normal driving and quick hits a thermostat makes a big difference....just look at the hundreds or (thousands?) of people running around 30-35 degrees cooler than they were with stock thermostats (and that is going from the stock 180 to the Reische 170)......the results speak for themselves, all theories aside.

 

[kris5597]

This is incorrect.

A 195 thermostat opens gradually over 15-20 degrees and is fully open at 210-215.

A 170 opens gradually from 170-185. This means the low temps stat is flowing fully open maximum volume before the 195 is even open.....this constant max volume flow is going to prevent the temps from rising more unless you are putting real heat into the motor like a 30 minute road course race....at that point, yes the radiator is most likely the weak point then.

For normal driving and quick hits a thermostat makes a big difference....just look at the hundreds or (thousands?) of people running around 30-35 degrees cooler than they were with stock thermostats (and that is going from the stock 180 to the Reische 170)......the results speak for themselves, all theories aside.

Ah I see. Perhaps my understanding of thermostat function was incorrect. The temperature rating on the thermostat is the starting temperature at which the thermostat will start to open, as you previously stated, the thermostat will gradually open more as more heat is introduced until it has reach maximum opening distance, which could be 15-20 degrees more than the original temperature. Makes sense.

Also, the hundreds (thousands) of people running thermostats are only doing it because someone else said to do it saying it WILL make more power. 90% of the people running a lower temperature thermostat perhaps don't truly understand and know why.

Kris

 

[1crazymach]

Stupid question. Have a rough blower 670hp Roush tuned I want to change to the 170 will the car have to be retuned? I only have 220ish miles but have seen my temperature from 190-214 normal driving. Any input will be great

 

[Higgs Boson]

Ah I see. Perhaps my understanding of thermostat function was incorrect. The temperature rating on the thermostat is the starting temperature at which the thermostat will start to open, as you previously stated, the thermostat will gradually open more as more heat is introduced until it has reach maximum opening distance, which could be 15-20 degrees more than the original temperature. Makes sense.

Also, the hundreds (thousands) of people running thermostats are only doing it because someone else said to do it saying it WILL make more power. 90% of the people running a lower temperature thermostat perhaps don't truly understand and know why.

Kris

I think Heat = Bad is enough reason.

 

[Higgs Boson]

Stupid question. Have a rough blower 670hp Roush tuned I want to change to the 170 will the car have to be retuned? I only have 220ish miles but have seen my temperature from 190-214 normal driving. Any input will be great

Just throw it in there and see what happens, you should notice a big difference without retuning it.

 

[Evolvd]

Ah I see. Perhaps my understanding of thermostat function was incorrect. The temperature rating on the thermostat is the starting temperature at which the thermostat will start to open, as you previously stated, the thermostat will gradually open more as more heat is introduced until it has reach maximum opening distance, which could be 15-20 degrees more than the original temperature. Makes sense.

Also, the hundreds (thousands) of people running thermostats are only doing it because someone else said to do it saying it WILL make more power. 90% of the people running a lower temperature thermostat perhaps don't truly understand and know why.

Kris

Or because their tuner recommended it...aka Lund.

 

[SD_GT]

So, after reading this thread, I fully intend to buy a Reisch 170 T-Stat. But how would I know if I've done any damage to my engine already from the heat? I'm tuned with bolt-ons if it makes a difference.

 

[Higgs Boson]

So, after reading this thread, I fully intend to buy a Reisch 170 T-Stat. But how would I know if I've done any damage to my engine already from the heat? I'm tuned with bolt-ons if it makes a difference.

stock temps won't damage anything.

 

[evo8904]

So, after reading this thread, I fully intend to buy a Reisch 170 T-Stat. But how would I know if I've done any damage to my engine already from the heat? I'm tuned with bolt-ons if it makes a difference.

Like Higgs said. Also, it is a super easy install. No need to drain the radiator, just use a hose clamp. Takes about 30 mins to install.

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[markmurfie]

You want the lower thermostat before you upgrade the radiator. Not only is it 65$ vs 500+$. Using the stock thermostat will not allow any radiator to achieve lower ect temps. That's the goal lower ects.

 

[Doctor Fishtail]

You want the lower thermostat before you upgrade the radiator. Not only is it 65$ vs 500+$. Using the stock thermostat will not allow any radiator to achieve lower ect temps. That's the goal lower ects.

I could be wrong but does the GT PP already have the bigger radiator?

 

[markmurfie]

I could be wrong but does the GT PP already have the bigger radiator?

Yes. The base radiator seems to do fine for stock tune and engine. I've held the rpms above 4k(majority of the time) with the 170 for over 30 min and did not see more than 195* cht unless I was going up a long hill.I'm sure a pp car would do even better.

As for IAT I find they get high in stop and go traffic. Once you start moving again they can remain high for a while. The way to correct this is stay in lower gears longer to open the throttle and get more air flowing through the tube. When you do that they drop very quickly.

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