thermostat

D3adch1ld

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read post #243
The only time I had cold shocked my tstat was because I had an overly efficient rad and by the time that the factory tstat would finish cycling the lower en of the rad was 70°. I drilled holes in it to address the issue, but in drastic changing temperature, the tstat would no longer allow the engine to heat up. I ended up with a 143° on that engine and that did the trick. Holes on your tstat isn't the best solution, at least not for an street car. A properly matched radiator and fans working at the correct threshold are the trick.

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Ramen

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After first installing the tstat and going for a drive - double check your coolant level.
 

gsxr1300

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Thats how the 160 operates its built that way.
 

gsxr1300

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Mine is perfect now 185 coolant 198 cylinder head temp.
 

Livernois Motorsports

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"A hot-side thermostat can function in a cold-side setup to a large degree but there are some drawbacks: When the thermostat opens some of the chilled coolant will mix in and expose the heat motor to cooler temps then it should be seeing to operate properly. Cooler temps then force the thermostat to start closing prematurely and once this happens, the hot bypass coolant will then start to make it open back up... and the cycle repeats. Another issue is the thermostat will always struggle to stay fully open because as soon as the bypass is completely shut off, the heat motor will no longer be exposed to hot coolant, forcing it to close again. The LMS/Even Flo thermostat attempts to address this by placing 4 holes in the bypass valve but then you always have a good amount of coolant recirculating through the bypass instead of being directed through the radiator as it should be."

Doesnt this explain why it may run hotter?
actually no. If you think about the way a thermostat operates, they all operate in this fashion. when they open, cold water eventually comes through and cools them off causing them to close. If anything, a 160 would be less impacted by this than a 170. The directional flow of the cooling system is the same. Now, if you were saying that we sold a completely reengineered cooling system that reversed the flow of the coolant, then yes, it would have a dramatic impact on the cooling systems performance.

However, that is not what is happening here. I think people are wanting and hoping for some crazy magic and voodoo to be going on, but there isn't.

The factory stat is ~178F, so again, when thinking logically, how are people reporting a thermostat that is only 8 degrees cooler than stock dropping temps in such a disproportionate number. 30-40 degree drops with an 8* change in stat rating (and verified, measured opening temp). The answer was in the post we made just before this. Something is letting coolant flow before the designed opening temp.

Now, for those running ours saying the temps had very little change, and especially those saying that they see coolant temps drop on decel. This is a telltale sign that the system is not burped properly. Yes, a vacuum system helps reduce the chance of air being trapped, but it does not guarantee air free systems. Remember, we install products as well as make and sell them, so we know the troubles of burping these systems. Even with a vacuum system there is burping that needs to take place on almost every late model vehicle we work on, but especially the EcoBoost and Coyote platforms.

We have tested every thermostat that we have ever gotten back as suspect, and they have all opened properly, and even installed them in our own cars to test them in the car. When burped properly, they do exactly what they are engineered to do.
 

gsxr1300

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I have 2 that you can have back.
paypal a refund to [email protected]

Maybe its just the the 170 burps easier.



I drained radiator, removed Tstat installed 170, filled coolant tank, started engine, opened tank. drive for last 2 weeks and 15 degrees cooler temps no special burping needed.
 
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evo8904

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actually no. If you think about the way a thermostat operates, they all operate in this fashion. when they open, cold water eventually comes through and cools them off causing them to close. If anything, a 160 would be less impacted by this than a 170. The directional flow of the cooling system is the same. Now, if you were saying that we sold a completely reengineered cooling system that reversed the flow of the coolant, then yes, it would have a dramatic impact on the cooling systems performance.

However, that is not what is happening here. I think people are wanting and hoping for some crazy magic and voodoo to be going on, but there isn't.

The factory stat is ~178F, so again, when thinking logically, how are people reporting a thermostat that is only 8 degrees cooler than stock dropping temps in such a disproportionate number. 30-40 degree drops with an 8* change in stat rating (and verified, measured opening temp). The answer was in the post we made just before this. Something is letting coolant flow before the designed opening temp.

Now, for those running ours saying the temps had very little change, and especially those saying that they see coolant temps drop on decel. This is a telltale sign that the system is not burped properly. Yes, a vacuum system helps reduce the chance of air being trapped, but it does not guarantee air free systems. Remember, we install products as well as make and sell them, so we know the troubles of burping these systems. Even with a vacuum system there is burping that needs to take place on almost every late model vehicle we work on, but especially the EcoBoost and Coyote platforms.

We have tested every thermostat that we have ever gotten back as suspect, and they have all opened properly, and even installed them in our own cars to test them in the car. When burped properly, they do exactly what they are engineered to do.
I'm surprised that you are still trying to defend the Evenflo. There are more than enough examples in this thread to show that it does not lower the temps as low as the Reische. Maybe the Evenflo should be change to the Evenflo 175 because saying that it is 160 is just flat out misleading.

Or, is there another reason behind the defense of this Evenflo....
 

ifly680g

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actually no. If you think about the way a thermostat operates, they all operate in this fashion. when they open, cold water eventually comes through and cools them off causing them to close. If anything, a 160 would be less impacted by this than a 170. The directional flow of the cooling system is the same. Now, if you were saying that we sold a completely reengineered cooling system that reversed the flow of the coolant, then yes, it would have a dramatic impact on the cooling systems performance.

However, that is not what is happening here. I think people are wanting and hoping for some crazy magic and voodoo to be going on, but there isn't.

The factory stat is ~178F, so again, when thinking logically, how are people reporting a thermostat that is only 8 degrees cooler than stock dropping temps in such a disproportionate number. 30-40 degree drops with an 8* change in stat rating (and verified, measured opening temp). The answer was in the post we made just before this. Something is letting coolant flow before the designed opening temp.

Now, for those running ours saying the temps had very little change, and especially those saying that they see coolant temps drop on decel. This is a telltale sign that the system is not burped properly. Yes, a vacuum system helps reduce the chance of air being trapped, but it does not guarantee air free systems. Remember, we install products as well as make and sell them, so we know the troubles of burping these systems. Even with a vacuum system there is burping that needs to take place on almost every late model vehicle we work on, but especially the EcoBoost and Coyote platforms.

We have tested every thermostat that we have ever gotten back as suspect, and they have all opened properly, and even installed them in our own cars to test them in the car. When burped properly, they do exactly what they are engineered to do.
Attached is the original TStat out of my 15 Mustang GT as you can see you are incorrect about it being a 178 it is clearly marked 180. I know it is only 2 degrees but if your coming here as an expert you should at least have your stats correct.
IMG_2448.jpg
 

evo8904

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Attached is the original TStat out of my 15 Mustang GT as you can see you are incorrect about it being a 178 it is clearly marked 180. I know it is only 2 degrees but if your coming here as an expert you should at least have your stats correct.
Wow, thanks for posting the pic. I had a shop install my whipple and just assumed that they didn't install the 160 thermostat that came with the kit since my cht temps were around 210 with normal driving. The thermostat that I pulled out when I installed the Reische looked completely different. I posted pics at the begging of the tread.
 

mustang_guy

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The radiator is responsible for maintaining the fluid temp, the thermostat just allows that fluid to travel to the rad. That's not overthinking it, that's system knowledge.
I believe as a master tech i know how stuff works. :crazy: you're over thinking this a bunch.
 

Mikeg4572

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I have the evenflow 160 and it works perfectly as described.
 

ifly680g

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Wow, thanks for posting the pic. I had a shop install my whipple and just assumed that they didn't install the 160 thermostat that came with the kit since my cht temps were around 210 with normal driving. The thermostat that I pulled out when I installed the Reische looked completely different. I posted pics at the begging of the tread.
Here is a pic of the Even Flo 160 it has 4 holes on the bottom and the design of the bottom is completely different than that of the stock TStat or the 170. the stock TStat has a spring loaded bottom and the Even Flo is rigid from top to bottom. When I say rigid from top to bottom I mean the copper colored part is rigid but the outer ring is spring loaded on the Even Flo. Stock has a two piece inner part that moves. Hope that makes sense.
IMG_2449.JPG
IMG_2450.JPG
 

Evolvd

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I believe as a master tech i know how stuff works. :crazy: you're over thinking this a bunch.
Ok master tech please explain how swapping a tstat makes more power... you're making the claim as if you're the expert here right? I see plenty of folks saying "it just does" but no one has put any science to it. Here's some research I've found...

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1001-colder-thermostat-increase-power/

Has anyone here dyno'd their car after swapping their tstat and not messing with fan cycle?
 

mustang_guy

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Ok master tech please explain how swapping a tstat makes more power... you're making the claim as if you're the expert here right? I see plenty of folks saying "it just does" but no one has put any science to it. Here's some research I've found...

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/impp-1001-colder-thermostat-increase-power/

Has anyone here dyno'd their car after swapping their tstat and not messing with fan cycle?
Well condescending smartass, you can find your own answers now. Btw no one is saying it gives more power. People do these to keep from the ecu pulling timing. Which is what i said the first time but you wanted to insist its not correct.Which these cars are sensitive with. :tsk: so keep looking for your answer you wont find. Big hint here. No one cares. They just want to keep it as low as possible to stop from pulling timing.
 

Jmeo

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On that note I'm pulling out of this thread.

I will be installing my 170° and removing the 160°.

Bottom line the Reische nets cooler temps than the EvenFlow. Cooler temps mean less timing removed by PCM which means better power not to mention cooler is safer for the engine.

It's not rocket science lol
 

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