Theres something wrong with my battery or electrical system.

[RPDBlueMoon]

Haven't had any problems with the car until a few days ago and today.

When I start it up I'll get these messages and all of the electrical systems will turn off (including the power steering) but the engine remains running, with the battery light on and the infotainment constantly reseting itself. It's very weird.

The first time it happened I almost crashed backing out because I didn't think that the steering wheel could actually turn off like that while I drive. I started it on and off, until the errors when away, the steering wheel worked so I backed out and then the errors came on again. Drove around the neighborhood slow, turned car off and on (closed door so that everything was off) and when I started it up everything went away. It didn't give me problems for the rest if the day so I thought it was just a fluke.

Today it did the same thing again so its not a fluke. I couldn't get it to return to normal. I checked the owners manual and it said that the battery light doesn't mean that the battery needs to be replaced, it may cut systems off so that it can charge. In another part it said to take it to get serviced. I haven't checked the battery yet, in the dash screen menu it says that the voltage is 15.5v-16v which seems normal.

I have been driving when I can during the winter once every two weeks, and more so in March so it's not like it's been sitting in storage all winter. So I'm not sure why suddenly it's happening now.

I don't mind taking it to the dealership to have them look at it, I was going to do it anyways soon for my oil change, but I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. Its like the whole electrical system is fucked.

I don't mind driving with the battery light on, I just don't want the electrical steering to suddenly cut out or have it not start up when I go somewhere and be stranded lol.

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[pilotgore]

Haven't had any problems with the car until a few days ago and today.

When I start it up I'll get these messages and all of the electrical systems will turn off (including the power steering) but the engine remains running, with the battery light on and the infotainment constantly reseting itself. It's very weird.

The first time it happened I almost crashed backing out because I didn't think that the steering wheel could actually turn off like that while I drive. I started it on and off, until the errors when away, the steering wheel worked so I backed out and then the errors came on again. Drove around the neighborhood slow, turned car off and on (closed door so that everything was off) and when I started it up everything went away. It didn't give me problems for the rest if the day so I thought it was a fluke.

Today it did the same thing again so its not a fluke. I couldn't get it to return to normal. I checked the owners manual and it said that the battery light doesn't mean that the battery needs to be replaced, it may cut systems off so that it can charge. In another part it said to take it to get serviced. I haven't checked the battery yet, in the dash screen menu it says that the voltage is 15.5v-16v which seems normal.

I have been driving when I can during the winter, and more so in March so it's not like it's been sitting in storage all winter. So I'm not sure why suddenly it's happening now.

I don't mind taking it to the dealership to have them look at it but I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. Its like the whole electrical system is fucked.

Do you keep it on a battery tender when not driving it? Have you tried charging the battery at home to see if it makes the problems temporarily go away? My bet is on a bad battery causing insufficient amps, causing the car the freak out. I’d definitely schedule a dealership appointment sooner than later, especially since you’re still within the 12 month consumables warranty.

 

[RPDBlueMoon]

Do you keep it on a battery tender when not driving it? Have you tried charging the battery at home to see if it makes the problems temporarily go away? My bet is on a bad battery causing insufficient amps, causing the car the freak out. I’d definitely schedule a dealership appointment sooner than later, especially since you’re still within the 12 month consumables warranty.

I don't keep the battery tender on it, since I was able to drive it once a week or once every two weeks when it was winter I thought I didn't need it, and by winter I mean December through January. I took it out often in February and March. I made sure to go on a long drive so that everything gets up to temp and give it time for the alternator to charge up the battery.

I'll throw the tender on it today and for the weekend and see what happens. I'll take it in on Tuesday. Thanks

 

[pilotgore]

I don't keep the battery tender on it, since I was able to drive it once a week or once every two weeks when it was winter I thought I didn't need it, and by winter I mean December through January. I took it out often in February and March. I made sure to go on a long drive so that everything gets up to temp and give it time for the alternator to charge up the battery.

I'll throw the tender on it today for the weekend and see what happens. I'll take it in on Tuesday. Thanks

It seems like it’s the most common issue across all years of the gt350.

My first indication that these things have weak batteries came in the first month of ownership, where the car wouldn’t start after sitting for 2 weeks. Since then I keep the battery plugged in if I won’t be driving for more than a day.

Keep us posted on how it acts after a trickle charge.

 

[RareBreed]

especially since you’re still within the 12 month consumables warranty

The batteries are covered under the 3/36 base warranty. However, if you have the battery replaced say six months before the 3/36 expires, there is no warranty period after the base warranty expires. Ford has also recently changed their warranties on customer pay batteries. They carry a 3 year free replacement with no pro-rate. So, for example, if you buy a battery and it fails in two years, the replacement is free but you only have one year warranty remaining on it.

 

[pilotgore]

The batteries are covered under the 3/36 base warranty. However, if you have the battery replaced say six months before the 3/36 expires, there is no warranty period after the base warranty expires. Ford has also recently changed their warranties on customer pay batteries. They carry a 3 year free replacement with no pro-rate. So, for example, if you buy a battery and it fails in two years, the replacement is free but you only have one year warranty remaining on it.

Good info, I didn’t know that!

 

[lunatect]

you need a new battery

 

[Postal Bob]

I made sure to go on a long drive so that everything gets up to temp and give it time for the alternator to charge up the battery.

It definitely sounds likea weak battery, and the BMS is shutting down all unecessary functions. Though I never heard of it affecting the steering. Did you have the steering mode in someting other than "normal"?

Even after driving it all day, or on a long drive, when I come home I attach it to a tender. And it's sometimes a few hours before the tender says the battery is at complete charge, and now in maintenance mode. And this with a 5 amp tender. Seems these cars really draw on the battery, even when driving. And even when off. For that reason, if the car is going to sit for a few days, it goes on the tender.

 

[StangTime]

Check your battery terminals for corrosion too. I don't know how old your car is but some batteries start leaking at the post and the corrosion ends up eating right through the terminal clamp.

 

[jdwass]

I ended up having two different alternators installed. Might wanna check that out with the dealer. I had similar symptoms. I lost power steering while driving.

 

[Demonic]

As mentioned, the first thing I'd check is the battery. The 15V+ doesn't indicate the battery is ok; it suggests the alternator is ok. If in the guage screen you individually select voltage screen, you may see the indicator needle for voltage jumping around. As the battery goes bad it can't load shed and stabilize the voltage, so you see constant fluctuations.

 

[milner_7]

I just went through this as well, you need a new battery

 

[mustangdriver]

15 volts is too high, should never go over 14.6

 

[Demonic]

15 volts is too high, should never go over 14.6

On the GT350 electronics they can definitely go to 15v in normal operation.

 

[Zuess765]

The batteries in these cars are very very small for weight and space savings, and from my experiences if they are not kept on a tender, especially during winter with cold winter temperatures and your leaving the car for two weeks without using it, its going to become a problem.

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