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Sway bars

Jaymar

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Figured I'd ask here rather than start a new thread although its a necro, Have been reading up more on sway bars and I think I'm slightly confusing myself more than learning, 2019 PP1 on FP Track suspension with BMR SP083 springs, Was thinking a BMR bar in the front and leaving the original PP rear, also will have Steeda front end links. Any advice would be appreciated!
I can't speak with firsthand experience myself as suspension modifications keep falling into my someday category but that combination seems to be where a lot of people here on the various suspension threads end up. BMR SP083 at 250/980 F/R, your choice of high quality shocks FP monotube or Bilstein and a GT350 or BMR front sway bar with the factory PP rear. This gets you in the same ballpark as the pre-magneride GT350 but with some of your rear roll resistance transferred away from the bar and onto slightly stiffer springs. There are many old threads you can read up on containing the wisdom of many folks far more educated than me such as @BmacIL @Norm Peterson and @Roadway 5.0. Of course, you should design the suspension to perform for the car you want to drive but this setup is close to what Ford was willing to sell OEM on a GT350 so perhaps use that as your mental marker for what you are willing to tolerate.
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BlownGP

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Figured I'd ask here rather than start a new thread although its a necro, Have been reading up more on sway bars and I think I'm slightly confusing myself more than learning, 2019 PP1 on FP Track suspension with BMR SP083 springs, Was thinking a BMR bar in the front and leaving the original PP rear, also will have Steeda front end links. Any advice would be appreciated!
I never gave a update.

I did the BMR minimum drop springs with PP1 sturts in the front and Steeda pro action shocks in the rear. Put on the PP2 rear sway bar and BMR lock out.

Handles fine for me, haven't been on any track or anything but it handles great.
I will be honest, I think the BMR lock out is the best suspension mod ever. I actually feel safe going WOT in the car now. I love it.
 

KingBowser

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I never gave a update.

I did the BMR minimum drop springs with PP1 sturts in the front and Steeda pro action shocks in the rear. Put on the PP2 rear sway bar and BMR lock out.

Handles fine for me, haven't been on any track or anything but it handles great.
I will be honest, I think the BMR lock out is the best suspension mod ever. I actually feel safe going WOT in the car now. I love it.
Nice! Im starting to want to get into more roadcourse and autox more, probably autox as events are closer to me. @BmacIL with the information you laid out, Im assuming the bmr front bar and stock rear PP bar should be good with my setup? Thanks in advace
 

BlownGP

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Nice! Im starting to want to get into more roadcourse and autox more, probably autox as events are closer to me. @BmacIL with the information you laid out, Im assuming the bmr front bar and stock rear PP bar should be good with my setup? Thanks in advace

I really always wanted to do it. I love taking curves fast. I just don't want to pay for all the tires. lol
 

baazooka

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I put together a chart that shows the bar rates (published and tested), and the effective wheel rate of the bars. You can add those wheel rates to the spring wheel rates published on Page 8 of the Spring rates sticky thread. This will allow you to see total roll stiffness and bar stiffness contribution to the total. I do not have Steeda front bar rates yet. View attachment 351548

Link to the spring rates:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...s-all-in-one-thread.44925/page-8#post-1637308

upload_2019-4-9_10-27-46.png
Excellent info, does anyone know base GT rates? Apologies if this has been posted already.
 

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Redeemer

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I gotta say am loving this thread and hope it keeps going. The science behind it, plue the S550 specific objective and subjective input is awesome.

Here's where I'm at. I did the front and rear BMR bars on the middle setting years ago when I first bought the car. Stock end links, springs and shocks. It was definitely an improvement as the PP suspension at stock had a feel I could only describe as "Sponge-slop". The difference could be felt immediately and the car gained a very neutral feel.

For those with no experience with sway bars, it is the single most significant change you can make to your suspension, for usually the lowest price. Whether that change is an improvement or not, depends largely on your driving style and the inherent characteristics of the car. A lot of the conventional "wisdom" goes out the window on our cars due to the weight, weight distribution, McPherson strut setup and tire selection. What I can say is whether you choose the wrong or right setup, regardless of brand, you should feel a difference in cornering.

So after a number of years I decided to replace my factory PP shocks and struts with the Steeda pro action non adjustable, and the endlinks with BMR adjustables. Looks like I bent the front passenger side factory link as expected. The mechanic, who owns 3 mustangs including an S550 recommended moving the front bar from middle to soft, and the rear bar from middle to firm to give me better rotation through the corners. He does a lot of autocross with a mixed type of vehicles including some FWD ricers as well as RWD V8's. My first thought is this is a recipe for oversteer disaster but, I am gonna give it a try and see how far the car wants to push before the ass end breaks. It won't be hard to adjust the stiffness. <ay you all wish me Godspeed.
 

NightmareMoon

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Stiif on the BMR rear swaybar is probably way too much. Be careful, but experimentation is good. For a street car too much rotation can be … disconcerting.

FWIW I run a BMR front bar on soft and something akin to the rear bar on soft and autox quite a bit. I have adjustable shocks tho so I have some other tools to induce oversteer balance w/o reducing rear grip with a lot of rear bar.
 

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baazooka

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Excellent info, does anyone know base GT rates? Apologies if this has been posted already.
After some digging on here, it seems as though the front GT bar is the same as a PP bar, but the bushings are not bonded.
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