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Swapping 2018 GT Thermostat

Sighlense

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So 15+ degree cooler CHT and over all lower system temps on my 15GT with Lund tune with fan settings for the 170* were imaginary?
Yeah, I am more than happy with my Lund tune and lower CHT’s with the 170.
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millhouse

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A couple negatives with running a cooler thermostat.

1) The engines tolerance were designed with a particular oil temperature in mind. Cooler coolant means cooler oil which means more engine wear.

2) In order for water (condensation) to adequately evaporate out of the oil you need heat. The less heat you have, the longer you must run your engine to eliminate the contaminants....which again means more wear. With E85, this get's worse.

These cars aren't going to overheat on the road or the drag-strip (and most will never overheat at the track either). If you're worried about horsepower, run 93 octane and keep the air as cold as possible...and stop worrying about a thermostat.
 

EFI

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No they weren't, but you're only seeing CHT improvement at idle and light cruising. Once you get on it hard and for extended period of times, your CHTs will climb right back up to the same level as they would with your stock thermostat because at that point it's all about your radiator's cooling ability to keep temps in check not when the thermostat opens.


If you drive your car hard, it doesn't matter if you have a 140* or 180* thermostat, your CHTs will be at the same level an that is dictated by the cooling system. On the street however you would see a big drop in temps but at that point you're probably doing more harm than good to run your engine at 180* CHT vs 200* CHT.



So 15+ degree cooler CHT and over all lower system temps on my 15GT with Lund tune with fan settings for the 170* were imaginary?
 

sigintel

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Dont forget the Reische 170 also opens a larger valve and can simply flow higher volume once opened.
You can add/drill 4-6 perimeter holes in a stock tstat to increase max flow.
 

1MeanZ

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Dont forget the Reische 170 also opens a larger valve and can simply flow higher volume once opened.
Digging this up from the dead because this is incorrect information. Here is the correct info direct from Reische..

This Reische 170° thermostat is custom made with the same size diaphragm and bypass control as the OEM units. This provides proper bypass control, which means maximum efficiency from your Mustang's cooling system. Each of these thermostats is carefully modified by hand, using only U.S. made parts and then quality inspected to ensure reliable and consistent opening temperatures.
 

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Elp_jc

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A related question: What temp thermostat does my PP1 2019 Bullitt has? It'd be nice if it's 180 indeed, but it was my understanding manufacturers are using 185 as a minimum, with some using even 195. Thank you.
 

barron64

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A related question: What temp thermostat does my PP1 2019 Bullitt has? It'd be nice if it's 180 indeed, but it was my understanding manufacturers are using 185 as a minimum, with some using even 195. Thank you.
I believe they come with a 190 degree thermostat stock. My 18 warms up to 190 first thing in the morning under normal driving to work.
 

sigintel

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Digging this up from the dead because this is incorrect information. Here is the correct info direct from Reische..

This Reische 170° thermostat is custom made with the same size diaphragm and bypass control as the OEM units. This provides proper bypass control, which means maximum efficiency from your Mustang's cooling system. Each of these thermostats is carefully modified by hand, using only U.S. made parts and then quality inspected to ensure reliable and consistent opening temperatures.
Not sure what part you mean is incorrect?
My englush language skills or Reische performance?

The flow capability is a function of the opening distance and the opening diameter.
Obviously cracking a 50mm valve only 1 mm open gets you very low flow.

Reische 170 looks like 42mm diameter and is 0mm open at room temp 70F.

Get yourself a pan of hot water at 175 and the stock, 160, and Reische 170 tstats. let us know what opening distance you measure while burning your hands like I did. lol. JJ

I only heated mine in pot to verify all my stats were working properly since boiling water is usually simple enough to do while white boy wasted.

Measure in the hot water since the instant you pull them out they change very quickly.
I just used IR gun to shoot the temp of the water at 175F and then use a chopstick to poke the thermostats until you get them lined up side by side and eyeball them. Hard to take a cell phone picture of steaming water, but if you can manage and post back that would be cool addition to the thread. Wish I had been cool enough to share that. If your Reische isn't opened any larger than the other two tstats, maybe just RMA it?

IMG_6450.jpg
 
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Sins550

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Lots of back and forth here so I guess my simple question is, would I need/benefit from a 170 degree thermostat? Im in GA with a top mount Hellion TT kit.
 

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1MeanZ

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Not sure what part you mean is incorrect?
My englush language skills or Reische performance?

The flow capability is a function of the opening distance and the opening diameter.
Obviously cracking a 50mm valve only 1 mm open gets you very low flow.

Reische 170 looks like 42mm diameter and is 0mm open at room temp 70F.

Get yourself a pan of hot water at 175 and the stock, 160, and Reische 170 tstats. let us know what opening distance you measure while burning your hands like I did. lol. JJ

I only heated mine in pot to verify all my stats were working properly since boiling water is usually simple enough to do while white boy wasted.

Measure in the hot water since the instant you pull them out they change very quickly.
I just used IR gun to shoot the temp of the water at 175F and then use a chopstick to poke the thermostats until you get them lined up side by side and eyeball them. Hard to take a cell phone picture of steaming water, but if you can manage and post back that would be cool addition to the thread. Wish I had been cool enough to share that. If your Reische isn't opened any larger than the other two tstats, maybe just RMA it?

IMG_6450.jpg
Reische specifically says their thermostats have the same size diaphragm and bypass as the OEM units, so I don't know why it would flow more when fully open vs the stock thermostat. Obviously at 180 degree water temp the Reische is going to be open further than the stock one, but when both thermostats are fully open, the flow should be the same.
 

sigintel

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Reische specifically says their thermostats have the same size diaphragm and bypass as the OEM units, so I don't know why it would flow more when fully open vs the stock thermostat. Obviously at 180 degree water temp the Reische is going to be open further than the stock one, but when both thermostats are fully open, the flow should be the same.
I am just sharing my experiences having tracked (road courses) a Whippled 2015 in Texas where it gets hot. MSRH, TWS (now closed RIP), HarrisHill, etc.
I can tell you 100% there is no way to keep the head temps below 245 even with the Whipple turned down to 8psi with a 4.0 pulley using the stock tstat.
I can manage 235-245 at 98F ambient with the Reische.

Keep in mind both should be "fully open" by 210 anyway. There must be some flow difference.
If you watch a tstat in a pan of hot water, you may find that its not a 100% binary device. Its a spring; a very analog device.
As temperature changes, the amount of force changes resulting in motion of the movable parts to reach a new equilibrium to balance the spring forces.
Is the motion a pure single motion and then it doesnt move any further?

If someone sends me a stock tstat, I guess I could try and do a pan or oven test slowly increasing from 160 to 260.
I can mail somebody a Reische 170. if they gots the Youtube skillz? Dunno.
 

Chris Barnes

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I'm running a Reiche 170 stat in my 2018 GT with a Stage II Procharger. I'm in Phoenix, and the CHT's routinely hit 225-228 driving normally in traffic and on the freeway when it's above 110 deg ambient. Jon Lund told me to go back to the stock stat since he's seen a lot of the Reiche 170 stats stick which may be my issue? He said to drill a few 5/16 holes in the diaphragm to simulate a Reiche 170. I'm not convinced since I'm pretty sure the Reiche is all the way open above 210 CHT anyhow. I'm about to install a Mishimoto oil cooler to try to take some load off the radiator and see what happens. I'm not too thrilled to do this since the heat exchanger will be directly in front of the top of the intercooler.
 

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I'm running a Reiche 170 stat in my 2018 GT with a Stage II Procharger. I'm in Phoenix, and the CHT's routinely hit 225-228 driving normally in traffic and on the freeway when it's above 110 deg ambient. Jon Lund told me to go back to the stock stat since he's seen a lot of the Reiche 170 stats stick which may be my issue? He said to drill a few 5/16 holes in the diaphragm to simulate a Reiche 170. I'm not convinced since I'm pretty sure the Reiche is all the way open above 210 CHT anyhow. I'm about to install a Mishimoto oil cooler to try to take some load off the radiator and see what happens. I'm not too thrilled to do this since the heat exchanger will be directly in front of the top of the intercooler.
I am assuming the auto routes the transmission cooling through the radiator like pretty much all cars do? Being if that is the case, may want to look into a trans cooler as well. Radiator size is the most important part of keeping the temps down. Not sure how the gen3 radiator compares to the gen 2 PP/NonPP? If there is a larger unit like the PP on gen 2 had, it would likely be a very worthwhile investment for your high temp area.
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