Suspension Upgrades Suggestion

[MidwayJ]

I didn't get any add'l harshness from the PP arms. Anything to give the steering a bit more immediacy and feedback is a must with these cars IMO.

I just replaced my non PP1 control arms with the PP1 arms, and I didn't get any additional harshness, either. What I did get was more responsive steering and a sense of greater stability over bumps and in turns. I was surprised at how much better the car feels. I suspect the bushings on the old control arms were more worn than I realized.

I also have Bilstein B6 struts and shocks with BMR minimum drop springs. Clearly stiffer than stock over harsh bumps but more controlled in most situations. One thing to watch with B6 rear shocks is the bump stops. I didn't trim them enough initially.

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[omiga]

Thank you so much. Other than the IRS support probably, the rest are going to be like that, though I have been recommended by many to stick with the FP track pack as much as possible.

 

[omiga]

I just replaced my non PP1 control arms with the PP1 arms, and I didn't get any additional harshness, either. What I did get was more responsive steering and a sense of greater stability over bumps and in turns. I was surprised at how much better the car feels. I suspect the bushings on the old control arms were more worn than I realized.

I also have Bilstein B6 struts and shocks with BMR minimum drop springs. Clearly stiffer than stock over harsh bumps but more controlled in most situations. One thing to watch with B6 rear shocks is the bump stops. I didn't trim them enough initially.

My worry about the PP control arm is its bearing, which will contribute to NVH. Other than that, it seems they're similar to stock one, so it's longevity vs. NVH, to my understanding.

 

[MidwayJ]

My worry about the PP control arm is its bearing, which will contribute to NVH. Other than that, it seems they're similar to stock one, so it's longevity vs. NVH, to my understanding.

The PP1 cars come with those control arms from the factory. I don't see complaints about additional NVH in the PP1 cars.

 

[Virnman]

My roads are hit & miss here. They’ve been re-paving some of the main roads around me which is great. I have Steeda min drop springs in my convertible with stock dampers & 19” lighter rims wrapped in meats. Car drives awesome compared to stock. The .75” drop really kills the wheel gap too

 

[S550HPP]

The PP1 cars come with those control arms from the factory. I don't see complaints about additional NVH in the PP1 cars.

Yeah I know I drove PP vert before bought HPP one and it was solid....have to look into it more

 

[TonyT930]

Thanks for your time and notes. It has been answered, but each time I look into it, I see many nuances that change over time as well. However, if you have a final direct message recently addressed to all of these, I would be grateful if you could direct me there.

It can be precious if someone lists final thoughts on these issues every 6 months or a year.

Back to your comments, doesn't the convertible not need that stop-the-hop kit? I remember that at some point, I read that they have reinforcements on the bottom.

In addition, while I don't have the Brembo brakes, why should I change to an FP control arm? I wanted to change them simultaneously, but only with a new pair, not an FP pack.

I can do camber plating, but the question is if it's of any use at all. Remember, I'll never use it on the track, so the only reason for upgrading to camber plating is if it has any advantage for driving the car daily.

But from your notes, I think I should get the FP shock/strut pack with sway bars, control arms, and springs from Steeda. Is there anything I'm missing? What about rear shock-reinforced mounts?

It's funny that you mention the convertible and bot needing the stop the hop kit. I have a 2017 convertible and I have never had a hop problem at all no matter how hard I've pushed the car. Like you, I was thinking the same thing.

 

[omiga]

The PP1 cars come with those control arms from the factory. I don't see complaints about additional NVH in the PP1 cars.

I have heard it, and the shop was thinking the same way. I understand it's plastic vs. metal bearing, which is the NVH source. But I might be wrong, I will ask a couple more shops to see what they think before executing the upgrade.

 

[omiga]

It's funny that you mention the convertible and bot needing the stop the hop kit. I have a 2017 convertible and I have never had a hop problem at all no matter how hard I've pushed the car. Like you, I was thinking the same thing.

I heard that it doesn't need it. If you look deep into the forum, you should find a picture of the bottom of the convertible, which has extra braces compared to the nonconvertible one.

Even if you get the package the braces from top the hop kit doesn't fit to convertible.

 

[Bluemustang]

I have heard it, and the shop was thinking the same way. I understand it's plastic vs. metal bearing, which is the NVH source. But I might be wrong, I will ask a couple more shops to see what they think before executing the upgrade.

There won't be any NVH associated with that.

 

[Bluemustang]

I need to upgrade my suspension, and after an extended reading, I decided to get Bilstein shocks and struts with Steeda minimum-drop linear springs. I'm a daily driver with a 2020 convertible GT that never gets onto the track, so I prefer to minimize the drop, as we have horrible streets in South California.

What else do you guys recommend I do in addition to upgrading these pars? Should I upgrade the sway bars as well? Do I need camber plating, or is it completely unnecessary? What about getting a Ford performance pack shock, struts along the sway bar, and combining it with Steeda minimum drop?

In addition, I found that it would be more expensive if I ordered valved shocks and spring packs from Steeda. Can anyone guide me if that is extra worth it, or will the shop that will do the suspension spring also do the valving?

In my experience, this type of threads end up turning into a shitshow. Lol

And you're going to get lots of people that think they know, and beyond that, ride quality and suspension mods are very much a subjective thing.

I always try to ask: what is your goal with the car? What do you want it do that it can't do now?

On the face of it, Bilsteins and minimum drop springs sound like a good idea. I can recommend some other parts to complement it depending on what your goals are.

 

[Bluemustang]

One thing I have noticed here with all the posts I have read through:

I see too many folks here who seem to think the Mustang should drive like a Lexus. Lol. I kid but I am actually being dead serious.

You can't fundamentally change what the car is. It's a Mustang. It's low to the ground even stock, and it's ride and chassis design is unrefined. But it's not without its positives. If you go into it knowing that, you have a chance at modifying it to your preference and being satisfied.

I see too many people trying to modify their cars and they live in a place with the worst roads in the country. AND they want the best handling possible. There's almost no way of doing that and being happy. But they do it anyway, and they're upset with the result. Maybe they should buy a different car. A soft SUV. So, then they tell everyone that modifying their car is a bad idea, etc. etc. Everyone's preferences and use cases are different. Just my two cents.

 

[omiga]

In my experience, this type of threads end up turning into a shitshow. Lol

And you're going to get lots of people that think they know, and beyond that, ride quality and suspension mods are very much a subjective thing.

I always try to ask: what is your goal with the car? What do you want it do that it can't do now?

On the face of it, Bilsteins and minimum drop springs sound like a good idea. I can recommend some other parts to complement it depending on what your goals are.

I totally get your points in these posts. It's a coupe designed for racing, not a comfortable, luxurious car that doesn't feel street bumps, cracks, or potholes.

However, on the other hand, many parts can be upgraded, especially regarding the stock package. From my other thread, where I work on the audio, I can tell you that with the same amount of power usage, you can get much better sound, as the distortion level of the parts on the amplifier is horrible. The stock amplifier doesn't have any noise-canceling mechanism. For example, B&O has it, which will significantly help car audio, especially if you're forced to talk with someone while driving, etc...

Having said that, I'm an EE, so I can easily work on those; I'm curious if I can do the same thing on the mechanic side when I need to replace parts because of their age. That was the source of the problem I made this topic to understand suggestions.

Although you're right, the suggestion often will put the car on the side of a racing car rather than a street car, which I will also try to avoid.

 

[Must_Billy]

With PP you don't need control arms.

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