Suspension Settings

[1QwkEcoBoost]

Hello,

I need a little advice/direction. So I’ve added a lot of adjustability to my suspension with mainly Steeda parts. Front camber plates with the strut tower opened up. Upgraded control arms, tensions links and bump steer kit on Steeda pro action adjustable struts F/R. Steeda sway bars, front and rear. Rear has Steeda adjustable camber arms and toe links. Track wheels are Apex 18x10 square setup on Brembo brakes up front.

This is a car I plan on tracking 5-10x a year on road courses. I barely drive it 3k miles a year.

I’m getting the car aligned Saturday and I’m not sure what settings to use for street driving and then tracking it on the weekends. I don’t really want to change the front or rear camber at the track. Is there a setting in between to allow the car to be streetable without wearing the tires out too soon?

I appreciate any advice, TIA!

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[shogun32]

2.5 up to 3 up front. About 1.7 rear. Do a few days and revisit.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Yeah, 2-5 to 3 camber front is pretty good. 3 will be better for track tire wear.

I’d go a little more rear camber (1.9).

Front toe zero, rear toe slightly toe in (like 0.25 total)

Set the rear swaybar on soft, front on soft or medium.

Adjustable ahocks should be pretty stiiff front, but maybe not maxed out. Rears probably a couple quarter turns softer (for track settings). For street run whatever feels comfortable.

 

[1QwkEcoBoost]

Yeah, 2-5 to 3 camber front is pretty good. 3 will be better for track tire wear.

I’d go a little more rear camber (1.9).

Front toe zero, rear toe slightly toe in (like 0.25 total)

Set the rear swaybar on soft, front on soft or medium.

Adjustable ahocks should be pretty stiiff front, but maybe not maxed out. Rears probably a couple quarter turns softer (for track settings). For street run whatever feels comfortable.

Thank you for the detailed settings. That gives me a good baseline to start with and then fine tune it as I go.

 

[Bridgie]

Just had my GT alignment setup.. (Aggressive)

A track focused car, although still road registered.. full adjustability front and rear achieved these numbers..
Some fast maybe stretching speed limit back road cornering on the way home from the shop, gave a precise turn in, great straight line braking from 1@@+ with no wagging tail.

Not on track until Feb at the earliest. It’s going to be a tough 6 wks.

 

[VictorH]

Just had my GT alignment setup.. (Aggressive)

A track focused car, although still road registered.. full adjustability front and rear achieved these numbers..
Some fast maybe stretching speed limit back road cornering on the way home from the shop, gave a precise turn in, great straight line braking from 1@@+ with no wagging tail.

Not on track until Feb at the earliest. It’s going to be a tough 6 wks.

What camber plates are you running? Did you have to cut the strut tower tops for extra negative camber?

 

[Bridgie]

What camber plates are you running? Did you have to cut the strut tower tops for extra negative camber?

I have Vorshlag plates with opened tower holes….

 

[VictorH]

Are you at max neg camber? If not, what is your possible max neg?
Other question, how much toe change is there from stock (-1.5 neg) to -3.0? It should toe out a bit but wondering if you know how much (approx).

 

[Bridgie]

With the Vorshlag and SPC rear arms I hear -4 is possible.. but that’s a lot for a DE car. Maybe some extra one side for CW or CCW specific tracks..

Adjustments to get Zero Toe up front have been made during the alignment. I don’t have a preference of under or oversteer to which toe would contribute.

Now I have the laser alignment, I will calibrate my own alignment plates and devices to help with home setup.

A bit more room available..!

This is what -3 looks like.

 

[Radiation Joe]

If you run any of the camber plates with indexed settings on them (Ground Control), you can set reasonable camber and toe setting for the street (try -1.8 camber with +.10 toe) and max out the camber for track days. Toe will go to zero or slightly negative which will give you more responsive steering at the expense of stability for track days. Afterward, reset camber to -1.8 and your toe will come back into line for reasonable tire wear.

 

[Scootsmcgreggor]

If you run any of the camber plates with indexed settings on them (Ground Control), you can set reasonable camber and toe setting for the street (try -1.8 camber with +.10 toe) and max out the camber for track days. Toe will go to zero or slightly negative which will give you more responsive steering at the expense of stability for track days. Afterward, reset camber to -1.8 and your toe will come back into line for reasonable tire wear.

I tried this with -2.8 front camber and zero toe for street setting and marked the camber plates for -3.5 track. First time I slammed the camber plates inwards at the track the toe change from -2.8 to -3.5 was more than expected and made braking very nervous from triple digit speeds. I did one session like that and then zero’d the toe out.

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