Autox and daily driver...alignment settings?

[Renner]

Lowered my moo with Steeda springs and going in tomorrow for alignment...any Autox guy who also daily their car have suggestions on alignment settings?

Was thinking:

-2.0 camber in front(If i can get it)
Zero toe Front
Rear -1.6 camber
Zero toe rear

This is based on autox buddies of mine suggestions

Thoughts?

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[Grimace427]

I would start there. I've seen S197 guys run -2.5-3.5 camber up front.

 

[murphyslaww]

I'm running the Maximum motorsports Camber plates, so disregard if that's something you don't want to do.

I run in CAM-C or ESP which allow them. I'm also on eibach sportlines, which may be a lower drop than yours.

With those plates, I get right around -3 on 19x9.5 wheels, square in the front with the plates maxed out.

If I bring it all the way back, I'm right in stock territory, -1.2 - -1.5, so it makes it pretty easy for me to adjust.

The rear is the same, I show around -2.8 to -3.0 with the slotted arm maxed out, and then around -1.0 when I bring it all the way back, but it's a bit of a pain in the butt to adjust, and I probably don't need -3 in the rear for Autocross, maybe -1.5 - -2.0, so without better measurement equipment for camber, I'm just leaving it at around -1.0 for now.

 

[Renner]

I would start there. I've seen S197 guys run -2.5-3.5 camber up front.

yah I need to make sure its good for daily driving also, 2000 miles a month ...I think my original settings above would be good start also. Thanks for your input

 

[Renner]

I'm running the Maximum motorsports Camber plates, so disregard if that's something you don't want to do.

I run in CAM-C or ESP which allow them. I'm also on eibach sportlines, which may be a lower drop than yours.

With those plates, I get right around -3 on 19x9.5 wheels, square in the front with the plates maxed out.

If I bring it all the way back, I'm right in stock territory, -1.2 - -1.5, so it makes it pretty easy for me to adjust.

The rear is the same, I show around -2.8 to -3.0 with the slotted arm maxed out, and then around -1.0 when I bring it all the way back, but it's a bit of a pain in the butt to adjust, and I probably don't need -3 in the rear for Autocross, maybe -1.5 - -2.0, so without better measurement equipment for camber, I'm just leaving it at around -1.0 for now.

I have not looked into camber plates yet...need to keep it good for daily driving tire wear besides autox...but thanks for the input

 

[Budwise]

The stock GT PP specs should be pretty good imo. Going much further will wear your tires pretty fast but thats up to you. OEM specifies a little toe in on the rear for added stability as well.

 

[Grimace427]

yah I need to make sure its good for daily driving also, 2000 miles a month ...I think my original settings above would be good start also. Thanks for your input

I DD with -1.8 degrees up front with perfectly even tread wear.

 

[dabears2322]

Noob quedtion, but do you need camber plates/bolts for them to be able to get back to factory specs after lowering an inch?

 

[BmacIL]

Lowered my moo with Steeda springs and going in tomorrow for alignment...any Autox guy who also daily their car have suggestions on alignment settings?

Was thinking:

-2.0 camber in front(If i can get it)
Zero toe Front
Rear -1.6 camber
Zero toe rear

This is based on autox buddies of mine suggestions

Thoughts?

Pretty much right on. I'd probably go to 1.6-1.7 in the front from 2, but it won't be too bad for the DD/auto-x compromise.

 

[snowman4us]

The stock GT PP specs should be pretty good imo. Going much further will wear your tires pretty fast but thats up to you. OEM specifies a little toe in on the rear for added stability as well.

Not really. I run a stock GTPP in FS and the outside of front tires are getting chewed up quite bad.
The front end will benefit greatly from additional camber.
Unfortunate I cant add any front camber due to class regulations due to no from factory camber adjustment.

 

[Renner]

Well...can't find a local alignment shop that will even touch my car due to the fact they will not take liability if they scratch the wheels. 3 shops I went to and all 3 said I need to sign off on liability release due to the black factory wheels. Found a race shop from a buddy of mine that does string alignments on race cars and he said he will do mine next week. Guess I gotta wait.

 

[Renner]

Lol...I'm a dumb ass. Never thought about swapping to my winter wheels and bringing the car in before..did that today and alignment done.

 

[2Cool]

Not really. I run a stock GTPP in FS and the outside of front tires are getting chewed up quite bad.
The front end will benefit greatly from additional camber.
Unfortunate I cant add any front camber due to class regulations due to no from factory camber adjustment.

You can always do camber bolts (aka crash bolts) or egging out the top strut bolt hole.

 

[snowman4us]

You can always do camber bolts (aka crash bolts) or egging out the top strut bolt hole.

Bolts are not legal for stock class. Only stock alignment adjustemnts are allowed, so if Ford does not list a way in the FSM then you cant do it in SCCA stock class.

 

[tyshenry]

The stock GT PP specs should be pretty good imo. Going much further will wear your tires pretty fast but thats up to you. OEM specifies a little toe in on the rear for added stability as well.

Simply not true. Stock PP settings are not nearly aggressive enough to eliminate low speed understeer.

Also, camber does not wear out your tires fast, toe does. I used to DD my WRX with almost -3* of camber and my tires wore almost completely even. Now, other peoples MMV, depending on how hard you drive your car. But, the point remains, negative camber isn't just going to eat your tires up like people would lead you to believe.

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