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Suspension Question

paulm1

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the differfence between a PP and base GT is... significant.
also, these aren't muscle cars either.
maybe, but not worth the $6500 price tag. I spent half that so far on my base GT and I'll put it up against any PP1 / 2 /mach1 on a road course.
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maybe, but not worth the $6500 price tag. I spent half that so far on my base GT and I'll put it up against any PP1 / 2 /mach1 on a road course.
to me it was. i guess it depends on how much your time is worth.

part of the PP1+ cars is a more lenient ABS/traction control program. what did that cost you?
 

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to me it was. i guess it depends on how much your time is worth.

part of the PP1+ cars is a more lenient ABS/traction control program. what did that cost you?
No doubt that the pp1 package is not anymore the bargain that it was at the beginning
Still, to duplicate it, even beside the ā€œimpossible to do programming ā€œ a lot of parts (and therefore time or $ labor) need to be added
From the top of my mind;
Both sway bars
Struts
Springs
Brakes
Radiator
Engine bay bracing
Lower bracing
Belly pan
Splitter
Center gauges
And Iā€™m sure Iā€™m forgetting a few
So all together still a worthy package
 

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No doubt that the pp1 package is not anymore the bargain that it was at the beginning
Still, to duplicate it, even beside the ā€œimpossible to do programming ā€œ a lot of parts (and therefore time or $ labor) need to be added
From the top of my mind;
Both sway bars
Struts
...
that's my point exactly. the only reason i'd not go with this would be to curate a less performance oriented experience or you want a more hardcore experience. its just a good value for the guy who doesn't want to build a car. for about 45K a PP1 base mustang is still a bargain.
 

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The tire setup is going to be 275/40/19 front and 315/40/19 rear
those rears seem like a REALLY bad choice, and minimal selection. But if you're going to be touring and far-afield from home, the only setup I would recommend is square. How many days are you willing to wait by the side of the road for a 315/40/19 to be delivered to you? When you could trivially put a square wheel where it's needed and limp to the next town for a patch/replacement in 255-275 size?
 

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those rears seem like a REALLY bad choice, and minimal selection. But if you're going to be touring and far-afield from home, the only setup I would recommend is square. How many days are you willing to wait by the side of the road for a 315/40/19 to be delivered to you? When you could trivially put a square wheel where it's needed and limp to the next town for a patch/replacement in 255-275 size?
This was a trial set up. I wanted an old school look to the car. Putting on another set of tires, letā€™s say a 305/35/19 wonā€™t be an issue. There has been no work done to the suspension to accommodate this set up. Itā€˜s on stock springs and suspension. Your observation, while valid, doesnā€™t really pertain, because if need be, I can have both tires switched out to a normal size tire at any tire shop nationwide. I have a 10 day out of country trip here in a few days, and we wonā€™t start the tour of the US till late May early June. Maybe by then Iā€™ll have another set of tires on and the car lowered to accommodate the next set up. I appreciate your concerns and input.
 

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to me it was. i guess it depends on how much your time is worth.

part of the PP1+ cars is a more lenient ABS/traction control program. what did that cost you?
I toggle the traction control off and the drive mode to track. came with car, no extra cost.
 

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I toggle the traction control off and the drive mode to track. came with car, no extra cost.
PP1 cars, according to ford, have a more relaxed setup from the factory. this was one of the motivating factors behind my pp1 purchase, you can't just bolt that on.

so you can't get that and its worth something to me.
 

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PP1 cars, according to ford, have a more relaxed setup from the factory. this was one of the motivating factors behind my pp1 purchase, you can't just bolt that on.

so you can't get that and its worth something to me.
okay, i get it. at the same time though, how many posts are there on this forum from guys with PP!/2 cars that swap out rims/tires, springs, struts, sway bars, etc? After spending the $6500 for the option.
 

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okay, i get it. at the same time though, how many posts are there on this forum from guys with PP!/2 cars that swap out rims/tires, springs, struts, sway bars, etc? After spending the $6500 for the option.
My Car was a PP1 car. I changed the front swaybar for Steeda SwayBar, the Suspension for Ohlins R&T and the wheels for Apex SM-10 19x11 for track use though for the street still drive on the PP1 wheels. Overall I did all of that because I track the car. For a street car 200/800 lbs preferably minimum drop steeda + Some Shocks + Camber Plates + Sway Bar should be enough to have very capable canyon carver and not annoying ride.
 

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okay, i get it. at the same time though, how many posts are there on this forum from guys with PP!/2 cars that swap out rims/tires, springs, struts, sway bars, etc? After spending the $6500 for the option.
i will probably, at some point, swap out springs and shocks and get a square setup of wheels. i'll probably also eventually get everything BMR has for the rear.

the performance pack was just a really good start. there are 3 reasons to not get the PP

1. you can't afford it
2. you want a more comfortable ride
3. you want a more hardcore ride
 
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i will probably, at some point, swap out springs and shocks and get a square setup of wheels. i'll probably also eventually get everything BMR has for the rear.

the performance pack was just a really good start. there are 3 reasons to not get the PP

1. you can't afford it
2. you want a more comfortable ride
3. you want a more hardcore ride
I also think, some folks are smart enough, to not pay Ford for a cookie cutter stock upgraded suspension. Then take that money and put on a truly competitive suspension system. This is a normal occurrence with guys who track their cars more often than not.
 

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I also think, some folks are smart enough, to not pay Ford for a cookie cutter stock upgraded suspension. Then take that money and put on a truly competitive suspension system. This is a normal occurrence with guys who track their cars more often than not.
see option number 3.
 

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I also think, some folks are smart enough, to not pay Ford for a cookie cutter stock upgraded suspension. Then take that money and put on a truly competitive suspension system. This is a normal occurrence with guys who track their cars more often than not.
Yup, prior to buying the car a year ago i signed on here and did some research. My goal with the car was to have a daily driver that i could track over the summer. Had the opportunity to buy a pp1 or base new. Drove both, could not justify the $6500. So far spent about $500 on front & rear chassis bracing, this car really benefits from stiffening up the chassis IMO, cheap and very effective. Before upgrading the susp you have to fix the chassis flex. Or how do you know what susp upgrades you really need? $800 on gt350 front brake swap. $900 on gt350 rims & tires. Cant wait to get it back on the track.
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