Suspension Mods for a Newbie?

[Adamone92]

The guys who say the B6's are better are track rats and are now on coil overs.

I have had the opportunity to try some twin tubes and I find them to be slightly softer initially and firm up quickly.

The mono tubes are stiff and linear in response.

I'm on the fence about which I like better.

Those same people said the b6 is better at low speed than the ford performance..and more comfortable on the street.

I prefer mono but i guess that can be personal preference

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[shogun32]

Just buy both FRPP track and B6 and do your own bake off.
Left side FRPP, right side B6. What, bad idea?

 

[bnightstar]

Well, I do want to reduce some wheel hop. And I want to increase handling? Yes, I want my cake and to eat it too.

I always thought that wheel hop is problem only off the line. I definitely not feel such problem when driving my car on the road or on the track. My point is that the base car need springs and shocks more than it need hop kit. Maybe it need the strut tower+cow+the brace as well that I don't know as my car was only missing the strut tower. But in order to have a car that is not bouncy you need springs. If you are set on minimal drop springs that's fine they will do the trick. With them you don't need full blown racing shocks but you need different shocks than what you have at the moment.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Bmr handling is 300 front 980 rear and do not drop the car an inch in rear

This is old data. BMR refreshed the handling springs years back. The front rate is now around 240, and the rear is still around 980. Drop is approximately 0.75 on all four. FWIW, I have rates at 225/880 and the rear is a bit much for me on the street.

The guys who say the B6's are better are track rats and are now on coil overs.

Not completely true. I run B6s and prefer these over the fixed twin-tube that I ran for years. I don’t track my car.

If you go pro-action, get the adjustable units.

^^^ +1. Especially if you go over 200/800; solid dampers to really dial-in what you want.

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The last bit to address is Bilstein versus FRPP. Keep in mind the FRPP track kit comes with new strut mounts, shock mounts, and bump stops. Fiscally speaking, the FRPP track damper kit is an immense value in comparison.

 

[Adamone92]

I always thought that wheel hop is problem only off the line. I definitely not feel such problem when driving my car on the road or on the track. My point is that the base car need springs and shocks more than it need hop kit. Maybe it need the strut tower+cow+the brace as well that I don't know as my car was only missing the strut tower. But in order to have a car that is not bouncy you need springs. If you are set on minimal drop springs that's fine they will do the trick. With them you don't need full blown racing shocks but you need different shocks than what you have at the moment.

Agreed. Main reason i suggested irs braces is to knock it out while subframe is lowered since hes working with a shop.

 

[bnightstar]

Agreed. Main reason i suggested irs braces is to knock it out while subframe is lowered since hes working with a shop.

Ah for that reason sure make sense to prevent working twice. I'm looking into doing the IRS Starter kit as well this winter / spring.

 

[Adamone92]

This is old data. BMR refreshed the handling springs years back. The front rate is now around 240, and the rear is still around 980. Drop is approximately 0.75 on all four. FWIW, I have rates at 225/880 and the rear is a bit much for me on the street.



Not completely true. I run B6s and prefer these over the fixed twin-tube that I ran for years. I don’t track my car.



^^^ +1. Especially if you go over 200/800; solid dampers to really dial-in what you want.

——————————
The last bit to address is Bilstein versus FRPP. Keep in mind the FRPP track kit comes with new strut mounts, shock mounts, and bump stops. Fiscally speaking, the FRPP track damper kit is an immense value in comparison.

Yeah i thought new bmr springs were 250 front 980 rear then saw that and wasnt sure.

Everything ive seen says monutube is more comfortable than twin. But that could be wrong.

Ford performance is definitely a great price. If you plan on doing camber plates at some point, or your car is new..the new mounts dont mean as much imo

 

[Boxxer]

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I did a lot of number crunching and research and I think I'm going with:

FP Track struts/shocks
FP lower k-brace
Steeda Stop the Hop starter kit
Steeda minimum drop springs

But, Steeda vertical links or Steeda front sway bar links, or neither, or both but then starve for a week?

I seriously considered BMR CB005. I really like it's smaller footprint but looks like BMR isn't having any Black Friday sales.

Finally, is it normal to spend more time inside researching parts than going out driving?

 

[shogun32]

inally, is it normal to spend more time inside researching parts than going out driving?

no it isn't. kick yourself out of the house and go drive the twisty 2-lane of this great state. Try any road in the wedge between RT7 and US50 or SW of US17 all the way to US33.

Get the Bmr/Steeda/Lethal diff bolt upgrade kit.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I did a lot of number crunching and research and I think I'm going with:

FP Track struts/shocks
FP lower k-brace
Steeda Stop the Hop starter kit
Steeda minimum drop springs

But, Steeda vertical links or Steeda front sway bar links, or neither, or both but then starve for a week?

I seriously considered BMR CB005. I really like it's smaller footprint but looks like BMR isn't having any Black Friday sales.

Finally, is it normal to spend more time inside researching parts than going out driving?

Nice setup.

I’d recommend the front sway bar and endlinks over the vertical links. The resulting handling is well worth eating Ramen for a week or two.

 

[K4fxd]

Sooner or later you will bend the stock end links. Do you need them right now? Only if they are bent. Vertical links are nice but easy to replace and you won't need to drop the subframe.

I'd do the top K brace and cowl extension as they compliment the lower K.

I think you will be very happy with your choices.

 

[Adamone92]

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I did a lot of number crunching and research and I think I'm going with:

FP Track struts/shocks
FP lower k-brace
Steeda Stop the Hop starter kit
Steeda minimum drop springs

But, Steeda vertical links or Steeda front sway bar links, or neither, or both but then starve for a week?

I seriously considered BMR CB005. I really like it's smaller footprint but looks like BMR isn't having any Black Friday sales.

Finally, is it normal to spend more time inside researching parts than going out driving?

I think those are solid choices.

Sucks bmr didn't really have too much going on

Yes, i do the same thing lol

 

[bnightstar]

Sooner or later you will bend the stock end links. Do you need them right now? Only if they are bent. Vertical links are nice but easy to replace and you won't need to drop the subframe.

That's how I roll there is nothing major that could happen when you bend/brake your endlinks. Also on the softest Front SwayBar setting I don't think you are going to band them but who knows.
Other thing that no one tells you is that when you switch to stiffer front bar your rear swaybar bushings will suffer big time (learned that the hard way) good they are cheap and easy to change.

 

[Boxxer]

Sooner or later you will bend the stock end links. Do you need them right now? Only if they are bent. Vertical links are nice but easy to replace and you won't need to drop the subframe.

So those end links are one of those "don't-need-to-replace-unless-it's-broken" parts.

Other thing that no one tells you is

And that's one of the reasons why I joined this forum. You guys have been doing mods a lot longer than me and you know what works.

Sway bar will come later, but i decided to get the FP strut tower brace kit since I already pulled the trigger on the lower k-brace. I think I need to take a drive to clear my head from doing all this research!

 

[K4fxd]

Make sure you get the cowl extension with the kit. The kits I have seen do not have it and it is needed.

Panel part number FR3Z-63016A52-A

And you will need 3 of these bolts. W717964-S45OB

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