speedracer67
New Member
what is the link to BMR?
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Well, you're getting a lot of great technical advice from some pros, but let me just relate to you that way back in the early 70s I had a 68 Fiat Spyder that had an engine about as powerful as a sewing machine, but it was incredibly low to the ground, and cornering was a delight. I have never driven a Miata but suspect it is a similar experience in this regard - plus about three times more HP. So here you are with, what, 250% more HP than your Miata? That must be exhilarating, to say the least. I bought a 2015 GT convertible a couple years ago and did what my "performance artist" suggested - which included lowering it about 1.5 inches. It makes a HUGE difference in handling. So, your money will be well spent dropping it down a bit. But as some of the experts have already said, you can throw a lot of money at this "issue" without necessarily getting an appropriate return. Have fun.I'm new here and have 2019 Mustang GT base with 301A. My first mustang and it's my daily driver and I don't think I can go back. I was coming from a Miata and miss cornering, spirited driving on the backroads with twisties. I don't have a place to install the parts myself so I figured I might as well as get these parts installed by a shop at one time, since they'll have to lower the subframe anyway.
Steeda minimum drop lowering springs
Steeda vertical links
Steeda subframe alignment & subframe bushings kit (or does BMR SCB766 & CB010 do the same thing?)
Steeda sway bar end links (front and rear)
I'll get a K-brace would be later down the road since that's an easy bolt-on. Sway bars would be even further down the road.
Not sure if getting Steeda subframe braces or BMR CB005 will help or be overkill for a street car.
But do you recommend the differential bushing or is that overkill? Anything that I should consider getting installed first? Any of the above not necessary for my needs?
Thanks!
You are SO right! I learned that FIAT stood for "Fix It Again, Tony" soon enough.That spyder was also about 2000 Lbs lighter than the GT
The first Dealer I worked at sold them, yes they were a fun car, when they worked.
I had 79 MGB that was a blast to drive until the Lucas electronics became a pain to deal with. The Miata was a great little car too but it didn't have A/C or other comforts; plus it literally became a rag top.I had a 68 Fiat Spyder that had an engine about as powerful as a sewing machine,
Weight was one reason I got a Mustang. Driving a Miata high up the Appalachian mountains on a strong windy day wasn't a good feeling. When I took the Mustang on same route on a similar windy day, it was like "what wind?" As a daily, I don't the Mustang as fast as I did the Miata; I think I drive slower not because I'm getting older, but so I can hear more of that Coyote growl.About 1500 pounds of reasons.
I have a pp1 gt and it came with the tower braces. I put a Vmp Odin on my car. I can Honestly say I wish I could put a brace on it again. I miss it. So the best way is to buy a steeda k brace or bmr for underneath the vehicle around the same area below the vehicle. Get lowest weight for the best price always!!Thanks for the replies!
Music to my ears!
I thought about the tower brace. Some say it tightens up the front end while others say it doesn't do that much but it still looks good and wouldn't hurt. I like it and I can install it easily out on the parking log. Just focused on those parts that need a bay and lift/jack stands since a shop will do the install.
From what I’ve learned the highest possible back spring rate for the back. For weight transfer and to put the power to the road+Grip!! Grip is the most important thing right after power!!Why wait to upgrade dampers and pay for labor twice? The Steeda springs are GT350 rates in the front and halfway between GT and GT350 rates in the rear - they will be better matched to the Ford Performance dampers than the stock GT ones. BMR CB005 for the rear cradle and call it a day.
I agree. Not all springs are similar. I think H&R sport springs are about the best to buy. Only thing sucks is there spring rates are classified. But boy do they work! Extremely well!! Everything ride weight. Comfort. And performance. I just want to kno the rates. Those damn Germans are really good at what they do!! Porsche 911 turbo S anyone??Hey man..there are about a million springs out there. Ive been studying this stuff non stop the past month or so, otherwise i wouldn't remember any of them either probably lol. Completely understand.
Can’t u get the ford performance track struts as mono tube? From what I’ve experienced, they are really good for the price. There’s a reason why they are always out of stock!! They have very good original Valving!!!Those same people said the b6 is better at low speed than the ford performance..and more comfortable on the street.
I prefer mono but i guess that can be personal preference
H&R Front and rear sway bars are better built then and other sway bar!! Plus they come with a proprietary sway bar bushings with specifically designed grease.. Rhey are amazing!Lower a PP car, while keeping the front bar’s sticky bushings, and the OEM end-links will bend for sure. Farewell to the bar’s bushings too.
Aftermarket end-links also give mounting options; I ran mine on the inside of my Steeda bar for more clearance.
This is totally not the case. Higher spring rates in the back past some point will make the car oversteer on corners exit and throttle applications. This is very dangerous combining with a lot of power.From what I’ve learned the highest possible back spring rate for the back. For weight transfer and to put the power to the road+Grip!! Grip is the most important thing right after power!!
I’m on my third spring set… What do I know?.. The stiffer rear spring has been the best with my current setup. Every setup is different. I can only speak to mine..This is totally not the case. Higher spring rates in the back past some point will make the car oversteer on corners exit and throttle applications. This is very dangerous combining with a lot of power.