Subwoofer

[Evolvd]

Already hooked them up and punched out the holes. if I fade it slightly rearward it does sound a lot “more full” but still lacks power in the rear.

The stock amp just doesn’t have enough power to put to the rear. And don’t be bothered by people who say to remove them (I’m surprised it hasn’t happened yet). I like rear fill too.

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[Tecronix]

Here’s my personal experience and opinion if you want it. Sound deadening. Adding sound treatment to the doors makes a significant difference in the OEM system. The 6.5” mid bass have more punch and and provides a deeper sound. If budget is a concern just doing this alone makes a huge difference and can be done at home by amateurs.

As for the amp, it does NOT need to be a DSP. There are non DSP amps that accept high-level input.

I did dynamat extreme in the entire trunk for road noise and exhaust drone. I think I’ve got 3 sheets left? Maybe use them up on the parcel shelf(didn’t do underside in trunk) and what I can in the doors?

 

[Evolvd]

I did dynamat extreme in the entire trunk for road noise and exhaust drone. I think I’ve got 3 sheets left? Maybe use them up on the parcel shelf(didn’t do underside in trunk) and what I can in the doors?

Look into SoundShield or Sound Skins. Dynamat isn’t bad, but you can find others just as good or better for less money. Here’s my doors using both above (they are built the same so you can use one or the other, or both)

 

[Tecronix]

Here’s my personal experience and opinion if you want it. Sound deadening. Adding sound treatment to the doors makes a significant difference in the OEM system. The 6.5” mid bass have more punch and and provides a deeper sound. If budget is a concern just doing this alone makes a huge difference and can be done at home by amateurs.

As for the amp, it does NOT need to be a DSP. There are non DSP amps that accept high-level input.

Infinity primus 6002A?

 

[Ben James]

Infinity primus 6002A?

The Primus 6002A would be a great match , compact and can take up to 15v speaker input for signal. This is the exact same amp as the JBL Stage A6002 just with a different cover plate so just pick the cheaper one

 

[Tecronix]

The Primus 6002A would be a great match , compact and can take up to 15v speaker input for signal. This is the exact same amp as the JBL Stage A6002 just with a different cover plate so just pick the cheaper one

Sweet. Crutchfield website has a note saying to disable the active noise canceling. Is this the forscan fix I keep reading about or is that something entirely different?

 

[Evolvd]

Sweet. Crutchfield website has a note saying to disable the active noise canceling. Is this the forscan fix I keep reading about or is that something entirely different?

As far as I understand it the convertibles are the only ones with ANC. @Cathul might know better though.

 

[Tecronix]

As far as I understand it the convertibles are the only ones with ANC. @Cathul might know better though.

I sure do appreciate all the input.

 

[Evolvd]

I sure do appreciate all the input.

There is a mic under the headliner just forward of the rear glass. You could unplug it if you desired. Mine is still connected and I haven’t noticed and weird issue. But, I’m also using the PAC Amp Pro interface unit so all the stock equalization has been bypassed.

 

[Decible]

Just my two cents....

My OEM system was the premium with the Shaker sub setup. When I took the entire sound system out and replaced them I found out some things...

A set of Focal K2 3 ways up front, K2 coaxials in the back, through a Helix P Six Ultimate amplifier with NO subwoofer and a little extra sound proofing is soooooo much better than the OEM system even with the OEM subwoofer. It had more sub bass than the OEM system despite having no sub.

The OEM shaker sub has next to nothing below 50hz... at all... I didn't realize how crap the OEM system was until I had just replaced the factory amp, fronts, rears (with no centre channel or sub), and it sounded awesome.

If Ford just had a quality set of speakers in the OEM spots they could have gotten away without the need for a subwoofer. I guess it comes down to marketing....

If you want to add a sub into a system which doesn't have one from factory I think there's been a few issues with regards to the OEM head unit not providing enough sub bass signal unless its settings have been changed in FORScan.

I was headed towards a complete active system using JL C7’s and my 2 JL w7 8’s. I have an HD 1200/1 for the subs but I think I’ll look into picking up 2 helix p six ultimate amps. Can you use the built in dsp to control the sub amp like you can with the VXi amps?

 

[Evolvd]

I was headed towards a complete active system using JL C7’s and my 2 JL w7 8’s. I have an HD 1200/1 for the subs but I think I’ll look into picking up 2 helix p six ultimate amps. Can you use the built in dsp to control the sub amp like you can with the VXi amps?

That HD1200 is a perfect amp for those two subs. I have no knowledge of the Helix ones though. Maybe @Ben James does.

 

[Decible]

That HD1200 is a perfect amp for those two subs. I have no knowledge of the Helix ones though. Maybe @Ben James does.

Yeah I’ve been holding on to it yeah I meant to tag Ben, I’m hoping it does

 

[Evolvd]

Yeah I’ve been holding on to it yeah I meant to tag Ben, I’m hoping it does

You did, I was just butting in with my .02

 

[Decible]

You did, I was just butting in with my .02

 

[Ben James]

I was headed towards a complete active system using JL C7’s and my 2 JL w7 8’s. I have an HD 1200/1 for the subs but I think I’ll look into picking up 2 helix p six ultimate amps. Can you use the built in dsp to control the sub amp like you can with the VXi amps?

I absolutely love JL Audio’s stuff!!! I’ve never had a bad item from them and they seem to punch well above their weight.

The JL Audio DSP software is great and you can get a mobile phone app to tweak little things on the fly.

About the Helix P Six Ultimate, it really is phenomenal but you’ll have to have a laptop to interface with it for the best way to change settings. I have my P Six in the footwell so it’s easy to make adjustments in the listening position. You can get a Bluetooth dongle but it costs extra.

The P Six has 6x125WRMS output, plus you have an optical line out, digital line out, and 4x low level (4vrms) line outs for other amps, plus two separate configurable 12v signal power out for the other amps.

I have mine setup to run a set of Focal KX3s semi active up front (4x125wrms), with 2x125wrms running the rears. I then use two line outs that go separately to two Alpine X-A90M mono amps to give the two Focal E30KX subs up to 1000wrms each.

It has been an absolute dream using the P Six amp to set everything up. There is nothing it can’t do. It can turn the sub amp off with preset time delays, it can turn itself off/on intelligently (I have it set to turn off/on with the OEM Head Unit, and to turn the other amps off after 30 secs of no use). All time alignment, crossovers are done through the P Six, which then feeds into the other amps.

I think that the current generation of JL, Helix, Audiocontrol DSP amps are the best sounding amps I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with. No graininess or harshness at all.

my dream setup would be to use the C7 comments for a full active front stage, however I went with the Focal KX 3 ways so I could use the crossover on the mid and tweeters. I just couldn’t justify using 125wrms per channel just for the tweets and having to get another amp for the rear stage.

my perfect amps would have been all JL Audio, but as such there’s no availability of the 600/2 in Australia (at the time), which I particularly wanted to run the front mids. Because I couldn’t get exactly what I wanted through the JL rep, I chucked a man tanty and went with Focal/Helix.

As it turned out, I was supposed to have two Helix C-one amps running the subs but a stock shortage at the time forced me to go with the Alpines. The X-A90Ms are pretty good still though . I just would have loved to have the Helix Amps to show off in the trunk instead of the Alpines which look a little out of place.

There is one major advantage of having an all active setup, and that’s being able to control the phasing of the components individually. At the moment I have everything sounding beautiful, however there’s a little bit of vagueness in the front staging above 4khz, but I can’t do anything about it without affecting the mids staging. That’s getting really picky though You’d probably only be able to pick it if you were sitting there with test tones…

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