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Street Setup

TeeLew

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I'm honestly struggling to grip these concepts so I'll quote what the author of this video
That response was incorrect. You do not have to overcome that 45# preload every time the shaft goes into compression. That would only be the case if there were 45 pounds of stiction in the system, which there is not. You only break that preload from full droop (dampers fully extended), which is why it will marginally raise the static ride height. If you were to compress the damper to some middle point of travel, it will have that 45 pounds (plus a little) of force trying to extend the shock lifting the chassis. The rest of the corner load will be taken by the corner spring.

This gas pressure issue is something that basically every reasonable racecar on the planet (save the very highest levels) copes with quite nicely.
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Jonyxz

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installed this setup today. I'm so happy...honestly I expected the 200/800 springs +bilstein to be stiffer but the ride is as comfortable as stock yet when you push the car its so much more controlled. The ride frecuency is really very close to stock and the change ridewise is hardly noticeable. I'm so happy I went this route. Its just the perfect street setup in my books.
The mass of this car needs this kind of setup as a minimum to be handled correctly at its potential. I now understand why ppl with bmr handling+ track dampers are so happy...this car can really take it.
Thanks to all the people that contributed with their content and advice to help me reach this goal. Some of them I especially want to nominate and thank are: @Brian@BMVK, @Norm Peterson, @Bluemustang, @Roadway 5.0 thank you guys!!!:inlove:
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Brian@BMVK

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installed this setup today. I'm so happy...honestly I expected the 200/800 springs +bilstein to be stiffer but the ride is as comfortable as stock yet when you push the car its so much more controlled. The ride frecuency is really very close to stock and the change ridewise is hardly noticeable. I'm so happy I went this route. Its just the perfect street setup in my books.
The mass of this car needs this kind of setup as a minimum to be handled correctly at its potential. I now understand why ppl with bmr handling+ track dampers are so happy...this car can really take it.
Thanks to all the people that contributed with their content and advice to help me reach this goal. Some of them I especially want to nominate and thank are: @Brian@BMVK, @Norm Peterson, @Bluemustang, @Roadway 5.0 thank you guys!!!:inlove:
20200807_174515.jpg
20200807_174505.jpg
20200807_174425.jpg
Bilsteins and ~1.4-1.5 Hz springs = butta!
 

TeeLew

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Went for allignment today. Toe is good but the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Shop said its because the toe is not zeroed and steering wheel cannot be centered independently. Is that true or do I need to change shop?
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Went for allignment today. Toe is good but the steering wheel is not perfectly centered. Shop said its because the toe is not zeroed and steering wheel cannot be centered independently. Is that true or do I need to change shop?
20200808_113130.webp
Good shops are supposed to lock the steering wheel during alignment. Not true that they can't fix it, but to be honest if they're telling you this, take it elsewhere.
 

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Of course the steering wheel can be corrected with the steering knuckles... but only a small amount. If it's too bad, it's better to reposition the steering wheel where it's more or less straight, then get it perfectly straight with the alignment. By the way, I wouldn't accept any more than a 10th difference in the camber, if at all.
 

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id take it some where else they can def center it out if they actually try
 
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These guys centered it on the second try but said they needed to put front toe to 0 to do it.
 

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These guys centered it on the second try but said they needed to put front toe to 0 to do it.
Which is fine, but it wasn't necessary. They just had to lengthen one tie rod and shorten the other by the same amount.
 

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Jonyxz

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Which is fine, but it wasn't necessary. They just had to lengthen one tie rod and shorten the other by the same amount.
Thats what I thought, thanks for confirming.
0 is not bad but the first run with 0.05 toe in felt much better. Will take it to a more knowledgeable and cooperative place next week.
 
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Jonyxz

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Well, went for a good drive early this morning on back roads where I can really push the car. The car is planted and controlled at all speeds.
When stock the limit felt like it was the whole car especially the nose which wondered, pitched and felt unstable making you feel the tires almost werent touching the ground at most times giving the driver to lack confidence and pull off the accelerator. I almost felt like I was on a boat in high seas.
Now the limit is focused on the tires. Today I easily took curves 20-30 miles faster than before before I progressively felt tires starting to loose grip. The car always moves composed and asks for more, almost feels as you are part of the car. Fantastic! It gave me goosebumps...
Car felt like a cruiser before, now its a sports car. Incredible what results you can achieve on this car with just a little inversion.
I can tell the limit of this car is much higher and understand that a more hardcore setup will help to reach it but for street use I think this setup was the perfect choice. Not uncomfortable at all(it honestly feels so close to stock in that sense)yet so rewarding. I just love it!

Now, something negative happened at the end: after pushing the car for 10-15 minutes engine started limping and limiting rpm at 5k. Went straight back slowly as I thought something was overheating but all gauges reported normal operating temps. Noticed the shift pads on digital dash were showing permanently (even after turning car off and on again) so that makes me fear its something realed to the tranny. Going to let it cool off and see it goes back to normal. Going to surf the issue forum section to see if I find out something. What could it be?
 

Norm Peterson

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Thats what I thought, thanks for confirming.
0 is not bad but the first run with 0.05 toe in felt much better. Will take it to a more knowledgeable and cooperative place next week.
Sounds like what your shop did was make all of the centering adjustment on the same side that the steering wheel was 'off' in (i.e. left side tierod adjusted toward toe-out for a steering wheel pointed left to go straight). Very small adjustments in the 'toe-in' direction (on both sides) will bring the toe in to a decent street setting . . . guessing about one flat (1/6 turn) if you were to try doing this yourself.

Having right side front camber a little more negative than the left side front is sometimes done intentionally to compensate for road crown. I wouldn't worry about that at all.


Norm
 
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Jonyxz

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Well, went for a good drive early this morning on back roads where I can really push the car. The car is planted and controlled at all speeds.
When stock the limit felt like it was the whole car especially the nose which wondered, pitched and felt unstable making you feel the tires almost werent touching the ground at most times giving the driver to lack confidence and pull off the accelerator. I almost felt like I was on a boat in high seas.
Now the limit is focused on the tires. Today I easily took curves 20-30 miles faster than before before I progressively felt tires starting to loose grip. The car always moves composed and asks for more, almost feels as you are part of the car. Fantastic! It gave me goosebumps...
Car felt like a cruiser before, now its a sports car. Incredible what results you can achieve on this car with just a little inversion.
I can tell the limit of this car is much higher and understand that a more hardcore setup will help to reach it but for street use I think this setup was the perfect choice. Not uncomfortable at all(it honestly feels so close to stock in that sense)yet so rewarding. I just love it!

Now, something negative happened at the end: after pushing the car for 10-15 minutes engine started limping and limiting rpm at 5k. Went straight back slowly as I thought something was overheating but all gauges reported normal operating temps. Noticed the shift pads on digital dash were showing permanently (even after turning car off and on again) so that makes me fear its something realed to the tranny. Going to let it cool off and see it goes back to normal. Going to surf the issue forum section to see if I find out something. What could it be?
Well, after reading some tranny and diff topics seems its pretty normal to overheat and limp mode after 10-15 mins of pushing a base GT
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