Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Fogg]

Just wanted to update the team here....
The vendor sent me another harness after I explained what my situation was. And hooray, that new harness started working immediately. So the cartec-option is definitely a good option as well.

Unfortunately, trying to push all in I broke some connection and it stopped again. Waiting for a new harness, but I know it was working just fine. All CAN-Bus things work perfectly, speakers all great, DSP setting etc. All up and running.

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[FooSchnickens]

Is the DSR1 still the go to for a no-fuss aftermarket amp install?

I've had an aftermarket sub installed for a couple years now using a simple LOC off the rear channels and love the extra oomph, but now I want to replace all the door/rear deck speakers as well. Back when I did the sub install it seemed like the DSR1 was the only show in town and it looks like that is still the case, but I'm happy to look into other options if they exist.

 

[Cathul]

Base or Shaker as starting system, i.e. 6, 9 or 12 speaker?

 

[FooSchnickens]

Base or Shaker as starting system, i.e. 6, 9 or 12 speaker?

Shaker, 9 speaker version.

 

[Cathul]

Then just get the idatalink harness for that system and have it modified (or modify it yourself).
With slight modifications you can attach any DSP or DSP amplifier to that harness, no DSR1 needed.

 

[Samiamthemustangman]

I am installing a kenwood dvd player. The jl audio 6s have already been installed. I've got a jl 12" and a scar 800 watt amp. It requires the turbo touch deck conversion. Any surprises that are unexpected with the turbo touch? What is cool is not I'll have digital ac and heat. Also some screens show tire pressure. Is that comparable with the nonpremium?

 

[iapng56]

Colleagues, hello!
I have a basic configuration 2.3 6 restyling.
I installed an Android radio (Ekiy KK5 instead of Sync3 4" "calculator").
The old ACM module is hidden deep in the panel, connected by a T-adapter + canbus.
Problem:
- ANC / ESE disappeared (no sound from the fifth cylinder from the speakers).

Note:
In forscan everything is active, "as build" is done.
But in ACM, when connecting "android", errors appear with the codes: B1A01:13 - B1A04:13
Audio control module.
Break in the electrical circuit of the speaker "1-4".

Please help and advice.

 

[TonyT930]

Is the DSR1 still the go to for a no-fuss aftermarket amp install?

I've had an aftermarket sub installed for a couple years now using a simple LOC off the rear channels and love the extra oomph, but now I want to replace all the door/rear deck speakers as well. Back when I did the sub install it seemed like the DSR1 was the only show in town and it looks like that is still the case, but I'm happy to look into other options if they exist.

Well, the two JL Audio amps i used didn't have DSPs in them. I connected the two factory harnesses that go to the two factory modules under the drivers side kick panel to a idatalink maestro cable. Then that cable connects to the RF DSR1. Then i ran the rcas from the RF DSR1 to the amps. Works perfect. Note, don't forget to program the idatalink cable and do a software update for the DSR1 from the RF web site. For me, that was the hardest part because of computers. Lol

 

[stangdrive-g]

Hey everyone, I was looking for a wiring diagram and ended up in this forum. I'm posting my problem in this thread, as I'm sure most people here know about the subject (unfortunately, I don't...) and might be able to help me.
I live in the EU and I'm driving a US Mustang FL 18 (premium sound- no shaker), and at the same time, the bass speakers in the doors on both sides failed. All other speakers work good.
However, I'm also having some problems with the sync, which won't update yet and always rejects manual update attempts with a SIGN error (probably has something to do with the US to EU conversion, which was done by the previous owner). I have no idea if it could be related to that.

What I've already tried:
-Checked the fuses in the footwell
-Unplugged and plugged in all the connectors on the amp several times
-Removed the passenger door panel and connected the woofer to the midrange speaker channel as a test: The woofer worked this way.
What other possible cause could be here?
How can I proceed?
Does it make sense to check whether a signal is coming from the corresponding speaker output of the amp? And if so, how can I do this with a multimeter?
Could this also be caused by a software error, or could it generally be fixed with a software update?
Thanks in advance!

 

[TonyT930]

Hey everyone, I was looking for a wiring diagram and ended up in this forum. I'm posting my problem in this thread, as I'm sure most people here know about the subject (unfortunately, I don't...) and might be able to help me.
I live in the EU and I'm driving a US Mustang FL 18 (premium sound- no shaker), and at the same time, the bass speakers in the doors on both sides failed. All other speakers work good.
However, I'm also having some problems with the sync, which won't update yet and always rejects manual update attempts with a SIGN error (probably has something to do with the US to EU conversion, which was done by the previous owner). I have no idea if it could be related to that.

What I've already tried:
-Checked the fuses in the footwell
-Unplugged and plugged in all the connectors on the amp several times
-Removed the passenger door panel and connected the woofer to the midrange speaker channel as a test: The woofer worked this way.
What other possible cause could be here?
How can I proceed?
Does it make sense to check whether a signal is coming from the corresponding speaker output of the amp? And if so, how can I do this with a multimeter?
Could this also be caused by a software error, or could it generally be fixed with a software update?
Thanks in advance!

Did you try a reset? I believe if you go in under settings, you can do a reset. Its somewhere in there because I did a reset before

 

[stangdrive-g]

@TonyT930 thank you!
You mean that reset of the Sync, right?
I've already tried that - unfortunately without success

 

[stangdrive-g]

Hey everyone, I was looking for a wiring diagram and ended up in this forum. I'm posting my problem in this thread, as I'm sure most people here know about the subject (unfortunately, I don't...) and might be able to help me.
I live in the EU and I'm driving a US Mustang FL 18 (premium sound- no shaker), and at the same time, the bass speakers in the doors on both sides failed. All other speakers work good.
However, I'm also having some problems with the sync, which won't update yet and always rejects manual update attempts with a SIGN error (probably has something to do with the US to EU conversion, which was done by the previous owner). I have no idea if it could be related to that.

What I've already tried:
-Checked the fuses in the footwell
-Unplugged and plugged in all the connectors on the amp several times
-Removed the passenger door panel and connected the woofer to the midrange speaker channel as a test: The woofer worked this way.
What other possible cause could be here?
How can I proceed?
Does it make sense to check whether a signal is coming from the corresponding speaker output of the amp? And if so, how can I do this with a multimeter?
Could this also be caused by a software error, or could it generally be fixed with a software update?
Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'll get back to my problem:
The sync problems were completely resolved by replacing the sync module.
But the bass speakers from the "Premium Sound System" in the front doors are still silent.

With the wiring diagram from the beginning of this thread, I noticed that my plug with the speaker outputs (gray) is assigned completely differently: only 8 of the 16 pins (5-8 and 13-16) have cables leading out of the plug. I found out by trying with a third-party amplifier: 4 cables lead to the rear speakers and 4 cables to the front door bass speakers. The door bass speakers also work perfectly with the external amplifier...
So I thought the bass output stage in the factory amplifier must be defective, so I got an identical replacement amplifier and connected it as a replacement - result: No difference (everything works except for both bass speakers in the front doors).

Any idea what that could be?
Why are my plugs assigned completely differently than in the diagram? ( Surely the same amp was always installed during the facelift?)
I really hope for your help

Images of the assignment:

or

https://postimg.cc/gallery/wHmRcXz

 

[stangdrive-g]

Hi, after we've sold our mustang, here is my last update, because we fixed the "no sound out of the front door woofer problem:
Although several experts initially diagnosed different things, in our case, it was ultimately the door speakers. The coil was completely fixed. After replacing the speakers, everything was fine again. I used cheap Pioneer Woofer, and the sound afterward was much better than with the original speakers. everything else, including the amplifier, was definitely not defective.
I think in many cases the solution is: put the crappy original mustang woofer-coins in the thrash, were they belong to...
Hope this helps the ones, with similar problems...

 

[Shane361]

Hi, after we've sold our mustang, here is my last update, because we fixed the "no sound out of the front door woofer problem:
Although several experts initially diagnosed different things, in our case, it was ultimately the door speakers. The coil was completely fixed. After replacing the speakers, everything was fine again. I used cheap Pioneer Woofer, and the sound afterward was much better than with the original speakers. everything else, including the amplifier, was definitely not defective.
I think in many cases the solution is: put the crappy original mustang woofer-coins in the thrash, were they belong to...
Hope this helps the ones, with similar problems...

Nice! You just have to be careful when replacing stock speakers with aftermarket speaker due to power handling requirements. It would be too easy to put in aftermarket speakers and they sound horrible even compared crappier stock speakers.

 

[Daz86]

Higreat thread, although I can’t find exactly what I’m looking for after searching through many pages.

I have a 2016 ecoboost with the shaker audio system with subwoofer. I have replaced the factory speaker in the sub box with a pioneer TS-A2000LD2 which is an 8” shallow sub with 2 Ohm DVC.

currently, I have wired up exactly as the standard speaker was with a pair of wires to each side of the sub. So each channel is seeing 2 ohms.

My question is and I can’t find the answer, what is the best way to make use of the standard amp? I know I cannot bridge the 2 channels and I’m getting conflicting information on whether I should:
1)run it as I do now using both channels to power a voice coil each

or

2)do I wire the sub in series to show a four ohm load and just use the one channel of the amp? Information of come across suggest the amp is not a true two channel amp and the coils could be fighting each other in the way I’ve got it set up at the moment

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