Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[D12DirtyDozen]

Stupid question but I don't know the answer
I have the base model with the 4 inch screen, if I want to upgrade the screen do I need a new bezel, or do the sides on the right/left of where the 4 inch screen snap off, making it bigger?

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[Fenix]

New bezel is required for the sync 3 swap

 

[Vivian!5]

I had some wiring to do, so I thought I'd put together a diagram that hopefully simplifies the 401a system. The first pic shows the physical amp in the drivers kick panel with the plugs labeled, and the second shows the overall system. In the wiring, I didn't put any colors because a lot of the colors listed in this sticky didn't match what was actually in my plugs... so, I just concentrated on the pin numbers and functions. Hope this helps somebody

Amp photo

Diagram

http://s1206.photobucket.com/user/eirvin60/media/PremDiagram.jpg.html

Dude!!!! This post was exactly what I needed to finish my audio install!!! Now i cant wait to finish. Thank tons dude!

 

[mumbles]

Dude!!!! This post was exactly what I needed to finish my audio install!!! Now i cant wait to finish. Thank tons dude!

Glad to help!

 

[floydbanks28]

I recently Replaced all of the Speakers added an infinity Bass link and Replaced the factory amp.In my 16 Ecoboost Premium 200A, I took some pictures of the various parts and thought someone might find them helpful.
Installed equipment.
Front
3.5 JBL 329
6.5 and A pillar JBL 609C
Rear Deck JBL 638
Amp Fosgate PBR300X4
Sub Infinity Bass Link.

Total cost $598.26
Very worth it!
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0xb8cxzilvp3n9f/AAAzTWwM0mJFGeWWbM-BI3HMa?dl=0

This is exactly what I want to do,
Did you keep the noise cancellation?
Also does your cell phone and sync voice controls work the same?

 

[ronnieb1958]

This is exactly what I want to do,
Did you keep the noise cancellation?
Also does your cell phone and sync voice controls work the same?

ditto...i was thinking of upgrading the speakers as well...only difference is i want to go with the JL Audio Stealth Box subwoofer.

 

[floydbanks28]

I'll repeat again do NOT use LOCs on these cars. The ACM has line level out and once you flash it properly with FORScan you basically have a Clarion HU.

Could you give a brief explanation of what this means? I barely know what a LOC does, it makes speaker level input change into low level input so that your amp will process it correctly. You are saying the pre amp input is already low level so you don't need a loc, but you are also saying you should reprogram the signal?? would getting an equalizer pretty much do the same thing?? Also whats the cost associated with these options? Thanks man this is the most I've ever learned from a thread, still feel like a noob tho

 

[floydbanks28]

Could you give a brief explanation of what this means? I barely know what a LOC does, it makes speaker level input change into low level input so that your amp will process it correctly. You are saying the pre amp input is already low level so you don't need a loc, but you are also saying you should reprogram the signal?? would getting an equalizer pretty much do the same thing?? Also whats the cost associated with these options? Thanks man this is the most I've ever learned from a thread, still feel like a noob tho

Also what does ACM stand for

 

[floydbanks28]

I am adding a 12'' mojo512d4 sub (1100 rms) that's going to be getting 1000 rms from a mono sub.
I want to add a 2 way or 3 way set of 6.5 inch speakers that are driven by an amp to keep up. I found some kenwoods that are 100rms each and an amp to match that perfectly.

The options I am thinking of are
1) replace the rear deck with the 2 ways so that I don't have to tear apart my doors, or risk loosing sync interface with all my other speakers. Also very easy to hide the amp and to install.

2) replace the 6.5's in the doors but I would have to tear apart my doors and re wire the speakers as well which ive heard on here is a pain (assuming the stock wires cant handle 100 watts rms). But at that point I feel like I might as well replace the 3.5's and tweeters while I'm at it and have them all be powered by my amp. It would probably require new wiring for all of them, also I may loose my sync three sounds (back up monitor, voice control feedback, phone calls)

I'm leaning towards the rear deck, but If I can re use the stock wiring (which I don't think I can) Ill probably do the fronts.

I have the shaker premium btw.

 

[HextallS550]

Using nominal handling power (W RMS) is a poor way to build a system. I've put three times the RMS into high quality drivers for years.

 

[floydbanks28]

Using nominal handling power (W RMS) is a poor way to build a system. I've put three times the RMS into high quality drivers for years.

I literally read everywhere that you should be within 20 percent above or below the rms of your drivers, How should I build my system then? My amp is a 2000 watt mono D class 1 ohm that can also push 1000 at 2 ohms. If my sub is rated at 1000 rms and I have the option to do either, which should I push? Also do you have any more info on the low level coming from the stock HU on the premium trim?

 

[HextallS550]

I literally read everywhere that you should be within 20 percent above or below the rms of your drivers

Where exactly is "everywhere"?

1. Be prepared to spend money.
2. Buy high quality drivers. Find local people who will let you listen, take notes, do not go into stereo shops and expect what they have on the soundboards to sound as it will in car, that should really only be used as a comparison tool sparingly. There are many ways to compare speakers; Thiele/Small parameters, manufactures specs, what some guy on the internet said, what some guy in a competition runs, however, the only true way is to listen to what people have and decide for yourself. My caveat to that is to educate yourself on what you should be listening for. Most big box brands such as JBL, Kenwood, Polk, certain Alpine, certain Pioneer do not reproduce midbass properly.
3. Don't waste money on rear speakers, they skew the image and ruin the staging. (Unless you're running a DSP that's 5.1)
4. Don't waste money on mids in the factory location. That location was a styling decision.
5. Use DSP to compensate for the problems of the automobile as a basis for proper sound reproduction. You can buy miniDSP for the car for less than $250

LOC = line out converter. A passive device that attempts to take an already amplified signal and attempts to reduce its voltage to less than 5V in order to use an outboard DSP or amplifier. There is no reason to do this on these cars because you can use FORScan to output line level (an un-amplified signal) and either build a harness with RCAs or purchase one.

ACM = Audio Control Module, the brain of the Ford system, the CD player, amplifier, tuner module that sits below the Sync 3 touchscreen or 4.2 screen. In the Premium cars this is connected to the DSP/Amplifier module. This should be completely bypassed. As far as wiring to keep the tones only the tweeters need to have wire run to them. If you bypass the DSp/amp and flash the proper as built data the ACM will act as if its a base car with line level out and no EQ.

 

[GTP]

If you bypass the DSp/amp and flash the proper as built data the ACM will act as if its a base car with line level out and no EQ.

[MENTION=28081]HextallS550[/MENTION], do you know how to do this?

 

[HextallS550]

Make a bypass harness to physically bypass the DSP/Amp
ACM 727-01-02 x0xx xx

 

[GTP]

Make a bypass harness to physically bypass the DSP/Amp
ACM 727-01-02 x0xx xx

I can make the necessary harness.
Does that code disable the EQ? Is this covered in another thread?

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