Search results

You are probably going to have to splice into your factory wiring to make it work, unless you can find some kind of factory amp integration adapter which will give you bare wires. If you could find a vehicle that originally had the B&O and cut off the harness further back it may make it easier...

In theory, i agree, but the crappy Sound Ordnance 3/4"ers I had in there were like a laser beam. If anything got in the way (like a grille) they became irritatingly harsh, reflecting everywhere. I cut them by 4-5dB, and they were sounding just OK. In odd contrast, their textured poly midbass...

The Focal stuff is always very nice. I believe the Flax series is their new flagship. I'd bet money that they sound amazing, but 6 bills is a bit too rich for my blood. I almost got a set of their components (lower end) for the stang, but reviews were saying the woofers either didn't have very...

Ended up going with the Infinity REF-375TX. They sounded REALLY good on the bench. They are edge-driven, and textile dome, which is similar to silk but an alternate material. Just got around to installing them in the A-Pillars. They basically came with no instructions and a tiny blow-up diagram...

Other than not removing the seat backs and the side trunk trim, pretty much exactly! :) I'll be doing that when I upgrade the rear fill speakers which are currently blown and crossed at 250hz to buy me time.

That was actually directed at @Chef jpd and their kickers, but I will take a look at the Clarus too.

I agree, it's a "jungle" out there, no pun intended. But they're from discountsjungle, which appears to be legit. Feedback for that specific item is 100% positive. https://www.ebay.com/fdbk/feedback_profile/discountsjungle?filter=feedback_page%3ARECEIVED_AS_SELLER&q=283401329667

Thanks. I'll keep a look out for those Alpines. Sounds like you went through a similar wiring mess as I did, although I have the 6-speaker system with 2-way components in doors. I had to patch into the factory door speaker wiring through the harness adapter which came with the dash install kit...

How exactly did you get these to fit? I have a set of the Crutchfield Sound Ordnance P67cb components I was trying to flush mount where the original grilles were. They list a frame diameter of 1.811", while those kickers are 2.045". The "threaded ring" on the flush mounts for my SO's wouldn't...

Never got a reply to my other question so can I ask you which model Type-R? Did you go with the full component set? Any idea if the Type-S will fit? They seem pretty stout with a frequency response down to 1000hz. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SS10TW/Alpine-S-S10TW.html?tp=107 Also leaning...

I'm not sure what you mean by add-on tweeters. There are plenty of high end separate tweeters available. I wasn't saying I bought a set of those $15 "niobium" (Piezo) tweeters and hacked them in. I've gone through two component sets. The Powerbass OE65C-FD sounded TERRIBLE. I switched to the...

They basically sounded the same when I had them wired from the aftermarket head unit amp and through their included external crossovers. The stockers were also similarly harsh but not as bad due to being larger (1" ?). But yes I do have a DSP, the equipment to take a measurement, and the...

I currently have aftermarket components (Crutchfield Sound Ordnance P67CB). The tweeters are extremely harsh, and I think it's because of how I had to install them in the A-Pillars. I used very thin butyl rubber rope which came with them to "weld" the surface mount cup (with tweeter installed)...

I removed the crossovers which came with the component set. I direct wired them to the amp and I'm going strictly active. I was assuming that mixing slopes would do strange things to the sound. For example, I accidentally had my bass amp set to 50hz LPF for a while (weeks) before noticing...

That's actually a really good idea! I'll have to try that on the other side. Just haven't had time to do the other door. After adding the sub, I hardly notice, though. I did bump the 6.5's up to 120z, with a 6dB active crossover, and 80hz for the sub. Seems to work very well. I upgraded to a CT...

I ended up going the way Cathul described. Removed the vapor barrier completely(and the one up by the window motor) and covered it with 2 layers of Siless 50mil deadener. I was hoping that filling in some mass in the those areas would improve sound. The metal actually flexed a bit around where...

I wasn't trying to knock on you for the term, but I was confused when the first google result came up as Damplifier, and you were using Ground Zero. Did you cut/notch the butyl where the feet went, or was it flexible enough to move out of the way? Is that your document? That is very well done...

Replacing the vapor barrier sounds like a good idea. That thing puffed around like a balloon when I tested the speakers out. Maybe my honky midrange is because of the lack of rigidity from the HUGE hole carved out of the door. I've read that automotive steel has a fairly high resonant frequency...

I actually have a pair of Behringer ECM8000 RTA mic's (non-matched), and an XLR PC interface. Measurements are definitely possible. What app did you use? I didn't recall there being many large openings (did you mean open areas of the door card). The vapor barrier covers most of the door area...

I thought a lot about going with a higher end set, but keep in mind, my DSP amp is only 40W per channel. The new tweeters being pushed back so far behind the grille is also making them harsh. I would like to flush mount tweeters in the A-Pillars, but can't seem to find anything that fits without...