Steeda pro-actions (adjusting rebound)

[EFI]

Recently installed a set of Steeda pro action adjustable dampers with the matching Steeda sport linear springs. Also put on the adjustable bump stops and billet shock mount.

Have not aligned the car yet (have appointment later this week) but I can't help but notice that the car is still a bit bouncy on mostly smooth roads. The setup handles small imperfections quite nicely, but driving down the highway I feel it bounces quite often instead of being smooth. That was something I experienced with the stock PP dampers, and was hoping this would help that but not really.

For those running these dampers, what are you keeping the rebound adjustment at for the street? And would increasing or decreasing this affect the bounciness or is that strictly based on the shock valving itself?

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[Bluemustang]

Recently installed a set of Steeda pro action adjustable dampers with the matching Steeda sport linear springs. Also put on the adjustable bump stops and billet shock mount.

Have not aligned the car yet (have appointment later this week) but I can't help but notice that the car is still a bit bouncy on mostly smooth roads. The setup handles small imperfections quite nicely, but driving down the highway I feel it bounces quite often instead of being smooth. That was something I experienced with the stock PP dampers, and was hoping this would help that but not really.

For those running these dampers, what are you keeping the rebound adjustment at for the street? And would increasing or decreasing this affect the bounciness or is that strictly based on the shock valving itself?

I would try adjusting the rebound up in the rear. Do you have any other suspension or chassis mods besides springs and dampers?

 

[EFI]

I would try adjusting the rebound up in the rear. Do you have any other suspension or chassis mods besides springs and dampers?

So stiffer in the rear?

I have sway bars, cradle lockout and vertical links also.

 

[Bluemustang]

So stiffer in the rear?

I have sway bars, diff lockout and vertical links also.

Yeah. Increasing the rebound generally decreases the bounciness in my experience having KONI Sports. Where do you have them set now?

I see you don't have cradle modification which can definitely transmit some of the forces into the driver seat. I have a cradle lockout and a bearing in the rear LCA so thats where my "bounciness" effect comes in.

In your case, it might be inadequate rebound damping. Increasing the rebound should resist the spring's natural movement back upward, making it move up slower. However, increase rebound too much and the car may feel "jacked down" and more harsh than it needs to be.

Also, bear in mind that you have a much stiffer and RESPONSIVE setup now and it will react more to road inputs, and thus it will transmit more of a feeling through chassis and into the driver seat. It could be it's just more responsive or you need to tweak your shock settings. It is most likely a bit of both.

 

[Norm Peterson]

What did you set them to when they were installed? Or were they left on full-soft?

Steeda suggests one turn up from full soft. And I agree that you need to first set full soft and turn from there (do this for any future adjustments as well). Keep in mind that you may want either more or less rebound damping than what +1 turn from full soft provides, and that it's perfectly acceptable to adjust the front and rear to different settings.


Norm

 

[EFI]

I see you don't have cradle modification which can definitely transmit some of the forces into the driver seat. I have a cradle lockout and a bearing in the rear LCA so thats where my "bounciness" effect comes in.

Sorry I was wrong, I have the BMR cradle lockout CB005 and also the FRPP knuckle toe link bearing. So these could be culprits for what I'm experiencing seeing how it was like this on the stock dampers and these items?
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And I have these set 1 turn from soft as Steeda suggest initially. But they don't really specify what effects are seen if you deviate from that both softer and stiffer.

 

[Bluemustang]

Sorry I was wrong, I have the BMR cradle lockout CB005 and also the FRPP knuckle toe link bearing. So these could be culprits for what I'm experiencing seeing how it was like this on the stock dampers and these items?
.
And I have these set 1 turn from soft as Steeda suggest initially. But they don't really specify what effects are seen if you deviate from that both softer and stiffer.

Yeah the cradle lockout could be reason you are feeling this. It may be in fact nothing wrong with it. 1 full turn off of soft sounds good. That's a good starting point. You can still make adjustments and see how you like them. I still think you will end up liking them at or near where you currently have them.

I think you may be just feeling forces that you weren't feeling before and it's not the spring or damper's fault. Like I said on my car - I get a bit of bouncy feeling at times on the highway. It's just how it is. And I also have the billet shock mounts (that everyone said would take it away). It's just a stiffer setup and making the IRS more rigid and connected lends to the road forces being transmitted to you - instead of being absorbed. Those who says the NVH with the cradle lockout is 0. I say 100% not true on that - 100%. It will definitely transmit more noise and a stiffer feeling through the chassis.

How bad is the bounce? There's typical bounce (which is not enough damping) and there's I think what you have, which is just you feeling what's happening on the road beneath you. Unless it's very underdamped, which seems false based on your setup, or it's the IRS mods.

You are using the smallest bumpstops correct?

 

[Norm Peterson]

Dialing them up a little further slows down the speeds at which the springs rebound and makes them overshoot the static ride height positions by smaller amounts. Dialing them down can be used to reduce objectionable harshness (the car will "move around on its suspension" a bit more when you do this). Try a quarter turn more in the rear for starters.


Norm

 

[EFI]

How bad is the bounce? There's typical bounce (which is not enough damping) and there's I think what you have, which is just you feeling what's happening on the road beneath you. Unless it's very underdamped, which seems false based on your setup, or it's the IRS mods.

You are using the smallest bumpstops correct?

It's not too bad, but it's the same as it was with the PP dampers which I always heard are underdamped so I figured these quality dampers would not have the same characteristics. So it may be very well be the IRS mods as you state.

And yes I only used half the bumpstop on each corner.

 

[Bluemustang]

I agree with Norm. Try increase the rear rebound about a 1/4 turn and report back. It's not likely the bumpstops because you're using the small one. If your bumpstops were too large you'd be hitting them a lot and that can cause some bounce and harshness, but in you case that can't be it.

 

[NightmareMoon]

If you feel the car kind of sticking to the ground as you crest the bump and then slamming on the other side of the bump, then lower the rebound setting (the car is jacking down). If you feel the car is a bit bouncy on both sides of the bump or oscillates more than once, then try a slightly firmer rebound setting. My rear shocks are _always_ set a bit softer than the fronts.

Both sides of perfect will be a bit uncomfortable. I don't have the Steedas, I have the Konis and they're valved a little differently from the Steedas, but if you start ~2-3 quarter turns (a bit less than one full turn) and slowly increase the rebound you should find a setting you like. On my car, for commuting on highways, I run the Konis at 1 turn from full soft in the front and a bit less than that in the rear.

 

[SteedaTech]

Recently installed a set of Steeda pro action adjustable dampers with the matching Steeda sport linear springs. Also put on the adjustable bump stops and billet shock mount.

Have not aligned the car yet (have appointment later this week) but I can't help but notice that the car is still a bit bouncy on mostly smooth roads. The setup handles small imperfections quite nicely, but driving down the highway I feel it bounces quite often instead of being smooth. That was something I experienced with the stock PP dampers, and was hoping this would help that but not really.

For those running these dampers, what are you keeping the rebound adjustment at for the street? And would increasing or decreasing this affect the bounciness or is that strictly based on the shock valving itself?[/QUOTE

Where are your settings now?

Steeda Tech

 

[EFI]

My initial settings were at 1 full turn from soft as stated in the instructions.

I just turned up the rears another half turn and will take it out for a drive later to see how it does.

 

[Bluemustang]

My initial settings were at 1 full turn from soft as stated in the instructions.

I just turned up the rears another half turn and will take it out for a drive later to see how it does.

Just be aware for shocks like this a small amount making a big difference. Ideally you might want to start by doing a 1/4 turn or even a 1/16th of a turn if you can manage. To get right where you want you may need to make finer adjustments.

I have to say I miss the adjustability of the KONI sports. But it's nice with the Ford Racing shocks being set and forget. More adjustability is nice though.

 

[SteedaTech]

My initial settings were at 1 full turn from soft as stated in the instructions.

I just turned up the rears another half turn and will take it out for a drive later to see how it does.

Go full soft front and rear to start. Firm up from there.
I have the Dual rate springs and for daily driving i'm full soft. When i go to the HPDE events i firm them up a bit.
Quarter turn makes a noticeable difference
What tire pressures are you running?
Steeda Tech

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