Steeda CAI Review and Install Notes:

[moarhorsepower]

Good write-up. Couple things I would add for someone looking into this intake:

- Yes, the weatherstripping around the box sucks to put on but after a few deep breaths, I got it on in about 5 minutes. Actually, I didn't like how it sat the first time so I pulled it off and started again to get the "break" where I wanted it. I would recommend visualizing how it will sit in the engine bay and putting the break in the stripping somewhere it might be less noticeable. That's where I would start. Also, not sure if it was supposed to be cut to size but mine was a bit longer than needed so I had to cut a bit off.

- I love everything about this intake and the company. However, to be fair, I think it should be made more clear to potential customers that they will need to permanently modify their factory cold air duct. In all my research, I did not see that anywhere. Maybe that's my fault and I missed it somewhere. It's not a big deal at all but I was a bit surprised when I got to that part in the instructions. I'm the kind of guy who keeps all of his stock parts just in case so having to permanently modify the duct was a little disappointing. That being said, I'm assuming it's a cheap part to replace and frankly, it can still easily be used with the factory airbox as Steeda supplies a grommet to seal the hole (although it's pre-filter anyway).

As a side note, I would have gladly paid some extra $$$ for the kit to have come with it's own duct but that's just me.

- The sound is great. Not much at low RPM's. Sounds the same more or less other than some whistling that can be heard at very low throttle inputs. When you go WOT though, watch out! This thing sounds mean!

- Last thing is closing the hood when you're finally finished. I had problems. Right before installing the intake, I had installed the Steeda hood struts, however, I had already tested open/close with no issues. After the intake, however, the hood would not latch. I checked and rechecked everything and everything appeared to be installed correctly. Finally I just put some weight into it (like a lot of weight into it) (like I thought I might bend my hood - weight into it) and it finally latched. Next day I popped it open and noticed that the weatherstripping had left an impression on the hood insulation which proves that this thing really does seal to the hood. At that point, the hood closed perfectly fine. I think the weatherstipping just needed to "break-in". However, I haven't heard many people say they've experienced this so maybe it was just my particular car (surprising, I know, since Ford's quality control ensures every single one of our cars is perfectly to spec!).

I installed mine this weekend. Definitely having the same hood latch issues as I just don't think it's sitting completely right. The hood is slightly more raised on the one side now. Much harder to latch but it is secure.

I definitely wish the seal was preinstalled. Kind of annoying for an intake that MSRP's at close to $400.

Also, the restrictor sits a couple inches away from the velocity stack where in pictures it seems to line up right against it. Made fitment of the reducers quite tight and had to put some muscle into getting it all sealed. Once I get my tune it won't be an issue as I'll just remove the reducer.

Also, the QC on the box could have been better. Lots of plastic spurs from the holes that were drilled. Not a huge issue but that should be caught during the manufacturing process.

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[Khyber]

took my first road trip on the steeda intake and tune.

ALL good! it was almost 80 yesterday and temps were fine.

 

[Brad Michaels]

I installed mine this weekend. Definitely having the same hood latch issues as I just don't think it's sitting completely right. The hood is slightly more raised on the one side now. Much harder to latch but it is secure.

I definitely wish the seal was preinstalled. Kind of annoying for an intake that MSRP's at close to $400.

Also, the restrictor sits a couple inches away from the velocity stack where in pictures it seems to line up right against it. Made fitment of the reducers quite tight and had to put some muscle into getting it all sealed. Once I get my tune it won't be an issue as I'll just remove the reducer.

Also, the QC on the box could have been better. Lots of plastic spurs from the holes that were drilled. Not a huge issue but that should be caught during the manufacturing process.

The insert or restrictor should fit flush against the velocity stack. Lube up the rings with Vaseline should slip right in flush. You may have drivability issues if you do not correct this..

 

[moarhorsepower]

The insert or restrictor should fit flush against the velocity stack. Lube up the rings with Vaseline should slip right in flush. You may have drivability issues if you do not correct this..

It was the only way to get the MAF sensor holes to line up. If it was completely flush, the hole for the MAF would have been way too small to fit in. O-rings weren't an issue as I lubed them up before installation.

 

[Evolvd]

Motor oil works great for those o-rings and is easily found ;)

 

[Need 4 Steed]

I was getting fairly high inlet temperatures when I first installed the CAI, but I went to the local hardware store and found a quick fix for about $5. Added some foam pipe insulation around the far driver side. Also opened up a few more hexes in the grill. Now I'm running about 5 over ambient and at stops the AIT don't climb nearly as fast.

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[Stang Racer]

Closing large air cap

Finished sealing front and drivers side up to hood.. Great for Drag Racers First pic before adding to air box, Last 3 pics after making ABS piece to fit the hood.

 

[Need 4 Steed]

Looks great. Any way you could make some templates or even sell prefabricated ones [emoji16]


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[jefc73]

Finished sealing front and drivers side up to hood.. Great for Drag Racers First pic before adding to air box, Last 3 pics after making ABS piece to fit the hood.

Nice. that's how the box should be from the beginning.

 

[Khyber]

how does the hood close much less not get pushed up... my box was 3mm too tall on one corner and pushed my hood up and had to be replaced

 

[Sasuketr]

I think if Steeda wanted to, they could have sealed the box completely to the hood but the vent also allows heat extraction from the engine bay as well! Thats the main reason Ford put the two vents on the hood! If we sacrifice one vent entirely for the intake then we might alter the heat extraction and aero dynamics of the car! Lol maybe i am over thinking things!

 

[5starr0]

Makes me wonder that since my hood had gaps where the dealer had to adjust the hood side to side if that will affect it in any way. Just loaded my tune today, going to install this weekend

 

[Stang Racer]

Looks great. Any way you could make some templates or even sell prefabricated ones [emoji16]

Thanks but it is a DIY project each air box is a little different for perfect fit;)
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Nice. that's how the box should be from the beginning.

how does the hood close much less not get pushed up... my box was 3mm too tall on one corner and pushed my hood up and had to be replaced

It takes some time to get the fitment just right! A lot of mods a little at a time for perfect fit :doh: Addressing a few other issues next before Drag Strip

 

[Need 4 Steed]

What plastic do you use?


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[stoli]

It takes some time to get the fitment just right! A lot of mods a little at a time for perfect fit :doh: Addressing a few other issues next before Drag Strip

Nice work!

how does the hood close much less not get pushed up... my box was 3mm too tall on one corner and pushed my hood up and had to be replaced

Like I said in the other thread, there's a huge gap along the front and drivers side as you can see in his fab work. Same thing with JLT. Yours was a tiny bit higher in the back corner, closest to the passenger firewall. Based on how thick the hood liner is and the gap between it and the hood I suspect had you given it some time yours would have been fine. The tolerances of just the rubber gasket is more than 3mm.

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