Speaker upgrade question

[Samiamthemustangman]

I dont have a budget on this project

Us amps has a good combination. They also have great amps. In the 90s orion changed the competition game. They made the best chea4er amp. My 50x50 watt amp pushed 800 watts. Orion also had a 1 watt per channel amp that was only sold to stero shops. Before competitions got the chance to regrade their classes us amps jumped in and did a good job making cheater amps also. Us amps have mid and high combo speakers. Orion, Punch, jl audio, and Polk audio also have great reasonable speakers.

Sponsored

 

[joe603]

I did a complete build in my 21 GT...There are a few guys on this forum that have been through it that can help. I didn't go DSP, but others have.

You cannot just replace the OEM speakers with aftermarket...they use speakers with different OHM values than normal...and the way they power the 3-way system is pretty bad. Swapping the OEM sub with aftermarket is pretty easy, but the rest of the system is a bit more involved.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stereo-build-finally-finished.194495/

 

[blackk3389]

Total agreement on the OEM subwoofer, it is the source of the poor muddy boomy bass in the car. I did not go with the Pioneer driver as suggested, I used the Redline driver. It plays louder with less power than the Pioneer. I'm very happy with it. But there are also a lot of members on here that are happy with the Pioneer. So I don't think the brand of driver matters as much as getting a good quality driver in the box. Search this forum and you'll find plenty of threads on upgrading the subwoofer in the B&O, especially which drivers fit within the OEM enclosure, there are not that many. As far as the rear deck speakers go, they are influenced by the DSP's stereo vs surround modes. In stereo the rear deck speakers only add fill and the sound stage is in the front. If you fade all the way to the rear they do sound like crap, just middle frequencies I guess. In surround mode they become more active and deliver a more pleasing sound. And the sound stage moves to the center of the car. I prefer stereo mode now that I disconnected the dash's center speaker. I fade slightly forward and don't really hear the rear speakers. Good speaker selection up front is important, and I would not bother with the rears. They are not worth it if you are staying with the OEM DSP and amps as I did. My experience has been, upgrade the A pillar tweeters, they make the most impact. Next the 3.5" midranges in the upper doors, they can add more clarity. The woofers in the lower doors are not all that bad really, once you upgrade the trunk's subwoofer, the bass is so much better so I left them for now. Add sound deadening to the doors and the subwoofer enclosure. Also disconnect the center dash speaker, it cleans up the midrange and highs.

This is how good the foor woofers are

 

[Trolly1]

I replaced the door speakers last year after one of them died along with the sub in the trunk. I have the B&O system. Works great and was improvement over the stock speakers. Sourced everything from Crutchfield.

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

This is how good the foor woofers are

How did they rust out so badly? Did you leave the windows down during a rain storm? How are the inner doors, do they show rust?

 

[joe603]

I put baffles on my door 6.5s...helps keep them dry.

 

[blackk3389]

How did they rust out so badly? Did you leave the windows down during a rain storm? How are the inner doors, do they show rust?

Never have the windows down. Trapped moisture is my guess. Car is kept outside under cover. More valuable cars are inside. If you ever look at your door sills after rain you can see moisture gets in

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Never have the windows down. Trapped moisture is my guess. Car is kept outside under cover. More valuable cars are inside. If you ever look at your door sills after rain you can see moisture gets in

Yeah good to know. I'll keep an eye on mine. I had them out last year when I upgraded the 3.5" speakers and I pulled out the 6.5" to have a look and they were fine. I was planning on swapping them at a later date, but now I may move the time line up. I did notice that my car cover has lost some of it's water repellency. I may need to spray it with some silicone spray.

 

[blackk3389]

Yeah good to know. I'll keep an eye on mine. I had them out last year when I upgraded the 3.5" speakers and I pulled out the 6.5" to have a look and they were fine. I was planning on swapping them at a later date, but now I may move the time line up. I did notice that my car cover has lost some of it's water repellency. I may need to spray it with some silicone spray.

What did you replace the 3.5" ones with? I did the 6.5" power base from crutchfield. But didn't see any good 3.5" options.

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

What did you replace the 3.5" ones with? I did the 6.5" power base from crutchfield. But didn't see any good 3.5" options.

I did a write up on using these. But the jest is to reuse the factory mounting ring. I got it to fit rather nicely. I reused the factor speaker connector as well. Don't overheat the pins the plastic is real soft. Crossover at 800hz use a 47uF capacitor. The vocals are nice and clear and guitars sound awesome.
https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-high-car-audio-sh-35fe-3-5-loudspeaker-with-carbon-fiber-cone-pair/

 

[blackk3389]

I did a write up on using these. But the jest is to reuse the factory mounting ring. I got it to fit rather nicely. I reused the factor speaker connector as well. Don't overheat the pins the plastic is real soft. Crossover at 800hz use a 47uF capacitor. The vocals are nice and clear and guitars sound awesome.
https://skyhighcaraudio.com/sky-high-car-audio-sh-35fe-3-5-loudspeaker-with-carbon-fiber-cone-pair/

Those are 4 ohm. Our system is 2ohm?

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Don't get hung up on the ohms. You have to know how to read the speaker's dB rating. The dB rating tells you how loud it will play for a input voltage of 2.83V at a distance of 1 meter, the accepted specification. So if you do some Ohms law you will see that the 2 ohm speaker will need twice the amount of power to achieve the same dB level as a 4 ohm. Also, and this is a biggie, the ohms of a speaker is not constant with frequency. See blue line in the graph below. It's only 4 ohms in 2 spots, one of which the speaker will never reach.

 

[m3incorp]

If there is no budget, this can happen quickly

I dont have a budget on this project

 

[DM_BK]

If there is no budget, this can happen quickly

Did you do the install yet? Any issues with fitting rhe Focals?

 

[m3incorp]

The box labeled Sounds Good Stereo contains adapters that are made for a simple install of the Focal Mids (any aftermarket mids). No other adapters were needed.

Did you do the install yet? Any issues with fitting rhe Focals?

Sponsored