UnhandledException
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the problem with those is they dont click. They show the maximum torque value.I'm not sure I'd spend this kind of money but PI has the
PRED2F150HM and PRED2F600HM does it not?
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the problem with those is they dont click. They show the maximum torque value.I'm not sure I'd spend this kind of money but PI has the
PRED2F150HM and PRED2F600HM does it not?
Exactly ^^^^I would definitely coat the electrical contact on top with dielectric grease. The grease keeps moisture and corrosion away from the electrical contacts. The contacts have built in interference and they scrub against each other to make a good connection when they are plugged together. This easily wipes through the grease, but the grease should still be there to protect from contamination.
I have a pickup with a Western plow and the directions say to coat all the contacts in dielectric grease prior to assembling them together. Those connections get more moisture, but really it's the same thing.
I dont understand why ft lb cant be used instead of in lb. its a matter of conversion of units.Exactly ^^^^
And for those that really want a better understanding of dielectric grease, this is an excellent read:
https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm
Every vehicle I’ve ever owned, even those old school engines that have the distributor and spark plug wires (I can here the young ones going, “what’s that”) and any modern EFI vehicle running COPs, I’ve always used dielectric grease on the dizzy terminal posts, external coil terminal post and spark plug terminal posts...
Never have I ever had any ignition problems, hard starts or performance issues from using dielectric greases directly on the terminal posts - and that even includes running aftermarket Crane ignition boxes too...
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**** Also folks should be very careful with torque values - don’t use ft-lb when the shop manual is calling for lb-in (Nm)... you could destroy the threads in a head or even snap a plug... Plugs also should be changed when the engine is either cold or luke warm, never when engine is hotter than luke warm.
I have a ft lb wrench that is 5-50 ft lbs which is 2% accurate on the 20% to 100% range. I dont think what you are saying applies to every wrench. Mine is precision instruments which I paid around $200 for.He was expressing don't use a tool that's designed for ft/lb ranges on an in/lb fastener. First, to prevent a bone-headed mistake in math, but second because a ft/lb wrench is likely to be quite inaccurate at the in/lb values called out.
Yes, your wrenches are accurate from 10ft/lb and up. You're one in 50,000 owners who spend that kind of money. Most buy the $40 specials which don't come with any kind of certification.I have a ft lb wrench that is 5-50 ft lbs which is 2% accurate on the 20% to 100% range. I dont think what you are saying applies to every wrench. Mine is precision instruments which I paid around $200 for.
well, call me stupid but I also just bought a CDI 0-300 in lb dial wrench and I will double check all the torques. I would not mess with this stuff considering I will do this every 20,000 miles and keep the car for a long time.Yes, your wrenches are accurate from 10ft/lb and up. You're one in 50,000 owners who spend that kind of money. Most buy the $40 specials which don't come with any kind of certification.