Something is wrong Car Alignment

[BmacIL]

Everything was lined out by AMR automotive in Baton Rouge. My stance is back, tires are in the fenders, and ride is much better. BmacIL your alignment specs were very helpful. After they reindexed the bushings it dropped 2-3/16 inch. Adding negative camber tucked the tires. I thank all for their input. I'm a little wiser when it comes to suspensions now.

Awesome!

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[CEHollier]

Before and Current

 

[BmacIL]

Before and Current

Yes! That is very good.

 

[JayHij]

Hey Guys I know this is an old thread, and while I don't have the same exact issue as the OP, I do believe I am having alinement issues.

Long story short, I felt the car was off, and took it to an alignment shop, and after two attempts (and the removal of spacers in between), the car now fishtails severely when accelerating. Like really bad.

For the longer story, read the following text, if not interested, skip to the Alignment sheets below that. I would love your feedback. Since the alignments, this issue arose, and I am afraid to go back with out some real suggestions.
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Long Story:

So to get right into it, I have a good amount of work done suspension wise, I started off with

• Eibach Sportline lowering springs all around,
• Yellow Koni Sport front struts (middle setting)
• Yellow Koni Sport rear shocks (middle setting)
• front and rear Eibach Sway Bars with BMR endlinks (middle setting)

Then I installed

• Steeda Front Control Arms (Lateral and Tension Links w/ Bushings),
• Steeda S550 Mustang Bumpsteer Kit,
• Steeda Billet Aluminum Vertical Links with Polyurethane Bushings .

Could not put my finger on it, but the car did not drive the same after the second list of items installed. One thing that happened that bugged me, is if you turned the wheel all the way to make a turn, unless your turned it back all on your own, the car would get stuck like that. Anyways so months go buy, and I go off a huge curve, and I could tell the car needed an alignment after that, so took it to a shop in to what I thought was a legit suspension shop for an alignment and took the opportunity to the some part swapped out/installed

• Ford Performance Performance Pack Rear Toe Link Kit,
• Hub Centric 25mm Spacers,
• replaced the controls arms with the Ford Performance Front Control Arm Kit Performance Pack (just felt like the steeda ones were off),
• and camber bolts.

So the car drove straight as an arrow but a few issues arose, one I can hear the left front strut when over a dip at higher speed, the steering felt very tight when turning, and when hitting a bump or dip on the freeway, the car in the rear feels like its going to fall apart, like very wobbly (this was my biggest concern). Don’t feel it in the steering, but rather in my rear in my seat.

Took it back to the shop (the last place I had the other items installed), and they saw nothing wrong but decided to give it another alignment. The issue was still there. Took it to another shop (lost hope in the last one). They told me my tires were bald in the rear, but the fronts were ok (oops), so they suggested I buy two new tires of the same brand (pilot sport 4s), put the new ones up front, the old fronts in the rear, gave it another alignment lol, removed the spacers, and now its the worst than it's ever been.

Now if I accelerate hard, or give it gas, the rear feels like it's going to fall apart. It is a side to side (kind of wobble) sensation. Also, still feeling over bumps and long turns (curves on the highway).

Took to a 3rd shop, and after some inspection, he thinks it's my "carrier" bushings in the rear! I asked to please look at my axel bolts, but he insisted he didn't think it was that ( I was annoyed).

I need help guys! I am desperate! I just want my baby to drive well again! Also, I am located in Socal (please any known good mustang shops would be greatly appreciated.

PS - I have a Ecoboost Premium Convertible with FP Tune.
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Alignment sheets:

 

[Roadway 5.0]

@JayHij

You rear toe measurements are way off. You want .12 for each tire. Thrust angle needs to be zero.

I also suggest 0.00 to 0.06 of toe-in for each of the front tires.

 

[BmacIL]

And this is why I say 'in the green' is completely meaningless.

 

[JayHij]

@Roadway 5.0 appreciate the input!

Is the cross camber value high as well? I have seen less than .5 on our vehicles with similar setups?

 

[Roadway 5.0]

@Roadway 5.0 appreciate the input!

Is the cross camber value high as well? I have seen less than .5 on our vehicles with similar setups?

Your front isn’t bad, and of course you’ll need plates to have perfect symmetry anyhow. The rears are pretty off — good thing is that a skilled alignment tech can adjust these to be more/perfectly symmetrical. I’d shoot to match the -1.1 in each considering your front camber is so mild.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Your front isn’t bad, and of course you’ll need plates to have perfect symmetry anyhow. The rears are pretty off — good thing is that a skilled alignment tech can adjust these to be more/perfectly symmetrical. I’d shoot to match the -1.1 in each considering your front camber is so mild.

Make sure they fix your rear camber, not just the toe. A lot of alignment techs don't know where the rear camber adjustment is on our cars and think its fixed. It is not, they just need to get an education. That much rear camber discrepancy between left and right will cause your car to always step out to one side when you break traction with the rear tires, even if your toe is symmetrical and good.

 

[shogun32]

A lot of alignment techs don't know where the rear camber adjustment is on our cars and think its fixed. It is not

Rear Camber Adjustment.

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