Slightly Loose Rear Lug Nuts on CFTP

[kilobravo]

To install the RokBlockz guards, I put the car on the QuickJack and pulled the front wheels. Did the guard install, cleaned the inside of the fronts, and noticed that the splined cylinder and outer cap were completely covered in surface rust.

Mr. OCD couldn't have that <smile> so a few minutes and some Dremel time solved that issue. I knew they would need a couple coats of primer so I set about making a paint mask out of a flat piece of cardboard to ensure that I didn't get paint on the rotor or BRIGHT RED caliper, <laughing>. I marked the studs, cut crosses in the holes and pushed it on the hub. Worked great, then all I had to so was cut out a circle slightly larger than the axle cap and I was in business. Got the paint, warmed it up, and in a couple minutes the job was done.

I Let the car down and torqued the front lugs to 150. Decided to follow Ford's recommendation and re-check the rear lugs after 500 miles. Surprisingly, many if not most were not up to spec and were probably in the 130-140 range so any of you who have taken delivery might wanna check yours if you haven't already.

But I can't WAIT to get Terrance's Black Titanium lug nuts, those cheap factory chrome nuts stand out like a sore thumb, IMHO.

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[Epiphany]

The hub faces, as you noted on the wheel/rotor register and splined area, corrode very quickly. Just know that if you had it there it will also be doing the same thing where the hub and rotor hat make contact. Only way to get at that is to remove the caliper and slide the rotor off as well.

 

[Tomster]

Anytime I torque my lugs, I will always follow up with checking torque again after a complete driving cycle. Usually the lugs require a re-torque.

 

[Snoopy49]

Retighten the lug nuts to the specified torque at 500 mi (800 km) after any wheel disturbance (tire rotation, changing a flat tire or wheel removal).

Lug nut size: M14 x 1.5
Torque: 150 ± 15 (200 ± 20) lb-ft (Nm)*

 

[RapidResponder]

I thought I would post these items "for the good of the order"...

WARNING:
When you install a wheel, always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign materials present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub, brake drum or brake disc that contacts the wheel. Make sure to secure any fasteners that attach the rotor to the hub so they do not interfere with the mounting surfaces of the wheel. Installing wheels without correct metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the wheel nuts to loosen and the wheel to come off while your vehicle is in motion, resulting in loss of vehicle control, personal injury or death.

Carbon Fiber Wheels (If Equipped)
Carbon fiber wheels offer significant weight savings, while maintaining the structural integrity of aluminum or steel wheels. These wheels have been specifically designed for your vehicle, and are not recommended for use on other vehicles or Mustang variants. Due care should be taken when mounting and balancing new tires to avoid damage. Ford Performance recommends only using your Ford authorized dealer for service.

The front carbon fiber wheels have a thermal barrier coating on the back of the spokes and on the inner rim barrel. The coating works best when clean. Maintain these areas with Motorcraft Tire and Wheel Cleaner and warm soapy water.

 

[Tomster]

Hmm.... so according to the manual, I shouldn't check my lug nut torque during an entire 3 day track weekend.

Come on guys, apply a little common sense.

 

[Classic Lover]

To install the RokBlockz guards, I put the car on the QuickJack and pulled the front wheels. Did the guard install, cleaned the inside of the fronts, and noticed that the splined cylinder and outer cap were completely covered in surface rust.

Mr. OCD couldn't have that <smile> so a few minutes and some Dremel time solved that issue. I knew they would need a couple coats of primer so I set about making a paint mask out of a flat piece of cardboard to ensure that I didn't get paint on the rotor or BRIGHT RED caliper, <laughing>. I marked the studs, cut crosses in the holes and pushed it on the hub. Worked great, then all I had to so was cut out a circle slightly larger than the axle cap and I was in business. Got the paint, warmed it up, and in a couple minutes the job was done.

I Let the car down and torqued the front lugs to 150. Decided to follow Ford's recommendation and re-check the rear lugs after 500 miles. Surprisingly, many if not most were not up to spec and were probably in the 130-140 range so any of you who have taken delivery might wanna check yours if you haven't already.

But I can't WAIT to get Terrance's Black Titanium lug nuts, those cheap factory chrome nuts stand out like a sore thumb, IMHO.

I think it’s pretty common for new vehicles to have lug nuts a little down on the torque spec. It’s probably a good idea to check over any new car you buy and make sure everything is up to spec.

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