V00D00
Well-Known Member
you would think there is a place we could find liek minded indiviuals to collectively gather resources to supply material, equipment, knowledge and finances to persue such an informative endeveor..We have indeed touched on this before. I may be getting old quickly but I haven't forgotten it yet.
I've never been a fan of turn counting and that's why I suggest measuring stretch. ARP favors stretch as the best measure too. This is exactly what I would do Tom.
- Weld the appropriate nut size socket to an adapter (crow's foot, etc) that you could fit on the end of a known accurate torque wrench. Calculate the correction factor for using the adapter length you are using.
- Install a wheel in place 4 out of 5 nuts torqued as you normally would with a wrench.
- Thread the remaining nut on its corresponding stud by hand to where it just makes contact with its seat on the wheel.
- Slip the socket into place over the nut in the wheel and attach the torque wrench.
- Set up a dial indicator that would go through the socket and touch the end of the stud. Zero it out.
- Torque to a corrected 150 (I'd also do 135 and 165 just for data points) and measure the amount of stretch. I'd try this a few times on different studs for backup.
- Start over again, this time lubricate with ARP thread lubricant.
- Pay attention to the torque value as you tighten, matching the dry stretch value.
This would allow you to impart the same amount of preload on the factory wheel studs, albeit at a different torque figure due to the added lubrication. Assuming everything else remains constant (same lube, applied in the same amount at the same location, etc) you should now have a figure to use with your torque wrench.
i bet we could get this done
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