Should I add upgraded rotors while doing Track pads?

[gone_n_60]

I know now I'll be saving that money for the new wheel fund and some Steeda dual rate lowering springs. This is why I love this forum.

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[tosha]

I'm finishing up my first (of many to come) track season. Last outing I totally wiped out my OEM brakes (fyi started this season with 5k miles on the GT) and had to get some Duralast stand-in's to finish the weekend. So I'm getting new track type pads front and back and was thinking about adding upgraded drilled and slotted rotors so I can start next season with solid braking setup. Two questions 1) is it really worth it? and 2) Pricing on D&S rotors are all over, from $225 to $800??? why and what is reasonable?

thx as always.

I'm planning to get a set of DBA rotors once my stock ones are done. These are priced well and seem to be a tested good option for hpde: https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/...A+T3+4000+Series+Slotted+Rotor+-+Single+Rotor

Having said that, I upgraded recently to a set of track pads and kept stock rotors ( I have brembo brakes on front). They work great and just needed some sanding. Until they are cooked, I plan to keep them.

 

[Ryan P]

I have run centric blanks with great success. Hop over to trackmustangsonline for a comprehensive list of part numbers. Rock Auto has them at a VERY affordable price. The pads will be far more money than the rotors.

 

[Ewheels]

@gone_n_60 please don't listen to that Andy guy.
You've asked a track-related question and he's giving you an answer with zero track experience.

Not trying to be an A-hole here but that's just giving out wrong and misleading information.
There's a lot of people on this forum who are new to the track scene and when they ask a serious question and someone who "has driven really fast on the street once" is giving out false opinion as fact, it really bothers me. I want you to get safe and accurate information.

1. Drilled rotors WILL crack sooner than slotted or blanks. Fact.
2. Slotted rotors can give a bit better initial bite and can clean up partially glazed pads but they will also chew through pads a bit quicker. Your call.
3. Certain rotor manufacturers have better cooling vane designs than others. Whether 1 pc or 2 pc.
4. 2 pc do in general cool better and weigh less than 1 pc rotors.
5. 2 pc rotors are technically better but 1 pc blanks will work just fine too. It all depends on your budget.

I personally love DBA T3 4000 slotted rotors. They're fairly inexpensive and work great. Other folks with deeper pockets have no problem buying the $1000 Girodiscs.



PS: if you want solid, honest, and technical information, go to TrackMustangsOnline.com
Mustang6G has A LOT of misinformation. I try to keep my mouth shut most of the time but other times, I have to speak up.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

You asked in the hpde section so…. Buy the cheapest non coated centric blanks from rock auto.

Replace them every time you burn through pads.

use your extra money for track days and instruction.

edit: also forgot the rears are even cheaper on eBay right now.

 

[K4fxd]

Once you go 2 piece you will never go back.

 

[tosha]

How do you like the AR-1's and which tires did you have before them? there's not many people using them here in NA, but the pricing is good and I'm very interested in these for next season.

 

[txgt]

I got my 2018 GT in Jan 2021 with 9k miles on her. I got a set of drilled and slotted rotors for the street (’cause they look good ) and reserved the factory blank rotors for track days paired with Hawk HP Plus pads.

This way I have a dedicated set of rotors and pads for the street and another for the track.

A big benefit of this is that I can have the factory blanks turned after I’ve burned through a couple of track day pads and the rotor squealing is unbearable.

I’d love to throw more money at 2 piece rotors, but trying to keep the spend in control. I’ve done 8 track days with this setup and it works great for me

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