Track Night: anything I should do?

[ElAviator72]

Hi,

I'm entertaining the idea of doing an SCCA Track Night in America event. I would be entering as a novice, since I have no prior racing/track experience.

I've got a dead stock Ecoboost PP car...

I'm currently checking into the cost of track insurance for the event.

Any tips on prepping the car? Looks like it'll be 20 minute track sessions. As I understand things, in the novice class, there are limits on when and where you can pass...

Also, wondering if this would turn into a big deal at the track (it hasn't been on the street/highway...):

It was a tiny piece of gravel that got imbedded in the tire tread. I popped it out with a key, and it left the mark shown above And yes, those are the stock P-Zeroes...it's on the Left Rear.

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[Impulsed7]

I track on the stock P-zeros (gt rears), no that rock mark shouldn't be a problem.

And just a hint, the stock tires like 36 psi hot, anything more and they tend to get greasy.

 

[ElAviator72]

I track on the stock P-zeros (gt rears), no that rock mark shouldn't be a problem.

And just a hint, the stock tires like 36 psi hot, anything more and they tend to get greasy.

Cool. So do you air them up to 36 before racing, or just let them do it on their own by getting hot, and then let air out if they go over that pressure? ;)

 

[Dirty-EB-Chicago]

expanding on this thread (if thats alright), any other general track tips regarding the EBM would be greatly appreciated. I'm hitting the track on monday and i honestly haven't driven my car at the limit in terms of handling or really any dimension. you can only do so much on public roads before you realize its not ok. i consider myself a fairly skilled driver but bypassing any nuances that id otherwise have to learn by surprise would be great. ill owe you a beer impulsed

 

[Impulsed7]

Good oil - for the eco, either redline, or the motul xcess. Both have low calcium, and are designed for sustained high rpms.
drive it in sport mode at least, anything else will eat up the rear pads.

 

[GTP]

I really want to drive my car on a track, and we have TNIA nearby.

However, I went autocrossing first. Got a new helmet, passed basic tech/safety inspection, etc. The good thing about starting out with AutoX is that the runs are short, so nothing will overheat. You can drive your car to the limit, or past it. You can only spin out or hit cones. Speeds range from 20-60mph. You can try the different drive modes. You can practice different lines, trail-braking (to get the damn car to turn in).

At a track, speeds will be higher, there are other cars around you, and there is the higher likelihood of damaging your car. From what I have heard, there is the chance for engine, trans, or diff overheating. IOW, your car may not want to do a continuous 20min run, so become familiar with your gauge readouts.

Although I have not gone yet, I just know I will prefer to run my car on a track.

 

[M3Convert]

3 x 20 minutes at Novice group speed/braking is no problem for the cars driveline fluids and stock brake pads. I would recommend changing the brake fluid if it is >6 months old as per various car club guidelines. No need to go overboard with racing fluid and pads until your are more experienced. If the brakes get mushy (unlikely), that is the time to pull in, not try and squeeze out another lap.

Try 32 psi at "arrival" temperatures (impossible to do cold!) at the valve, not the TPMS, as a start. Also, torque your lug nuts prior to your first session.

 

[NightmareMoon]

3 x 20 minutes at Novice group speed/braking is no problem for the cars driveline fluids and stock brake pads. I would recommend changing the brake fluid if it is >6 months old as per various car club guidelines. No need to go overboard with racing fluid and pads until your are more experienced. If the brakes get mushy (unlikely), that is the time to pull in, not try and squeeze out another lap.

Try 32 psi at "arrival" temperatures (impossible to do cold!) at the valve, not the TPMS, as a start. Also, torque your lug nuts prior to your first session.

Great advice.

Keep the tires around 37psi hot, or a bit lower for the rears (35psi), and do whatever you have to do to lower the pressure if they're climbing beyond about 38psi. Traction won't fall off much at higher pressures, but you won't like your tire wear afterwards.

The PZeros grip well, but they in my experience they seem to have a narrow range of slip angle they like, so things can happen quickly if you push them too far over the edge.

Insurance is recommended, especially if you're a novice. Since you probably won't have an instructor in the car (my least favorite thing about Track Night events), its probably a really good idea to leave some of the traction control nannies on.

If you are looking to make some car changes, I'd recommend getting a bit more front camber by either investing in camber plates or slotting the front strut. That mod alone really helps reduce the factory understeer by increasing front grip.

 

[ElAviator72]

3 x 20 minutes at Novice group speed/braking is no problem for the cars driveline fluids and stock brake pads. I would recommend changing the brake fluid if it is >6 months old as per various car club guidelines. No need to go overboard with racing fluid and pads until your are more experienced. If the brakes get mushy (unlikely), that is the time to pull in, not try and squeeze out another lap.

Try 32 psi at "arrival" temperatures (impossible to do cold!) at the valve, not the TPMS, as a start. Also, torque your lug nuts prior to your first session.

Thanks. Anyone know the torque specs for the lugnuts? Haven't broken down and bought a shop manual yet

 

[Competition Orange]

150

 

[M3Convert]

Thanks. Anyone know the torque specs for the lugnuts? Haven't broken down and bought a shop manual yet

Yes, 150. It's in the regular manual. I thought it was a misprint. I think they use F-150 hubs.

Be careful to make sure that the socket is firmly engaged on the nut. I have ruined 4 lug nuts with the shitty outer coat buckling.

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