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Should I add anything while doing lowering springs?

bluestar

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So I just purchased a set of RTR Lowering Springs for my Mustang. They're a progressive rate spring that will drop the Mustang 1.1' in the front and 0.8' in the rear. Also plan on adding the BMR Cradle Lockout Kit. How does this setup sound to you guy's? Not planning on tracking the car, just want a little better stance and handling. Should I do anything else? Thanks!
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tj@steeda

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1 old racer

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Add a set of bump steer links. Lowered Mustang get very twitchy when you hit some bumps and bump steer links correct this .
 
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bluestar

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Add a set of bump steer links. Lowered Mustang get very twitchy when you hit some bumps and bump steer links correct this .
Good to know! I'll look at a set. Thank you!
 

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Bluemustang

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Good to know! I'll look at a set. Thank you!
If doing the bumpsteer kit, I HIGHLY recommend a set of Steeda lateral front control arms. It raises the roll center back up after lowering. Less body roll, better steering and more front grip. You don't need it but as long as you're doing the bumpsteer kit, this is the time to do that. You need an alignment anyway and bumpsteer adjustment. When used in conjunction w/ the control arms it reduces bumpsteer even more. You may not need it, but trust me you'll be very glad you did.

This would also be a good time to get that subframe under control. Pickup a BMR cradle lockout. And of course, dampers. Ford Performance track dampers or Steeda Pro Actions would probably work very well.
 

Norm Peterson

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I was told that I wouldn't really need camber plates as the drop wasn't too drastic...….
This depends on where the cambers are now (don't assume "factory preferred" here, measure them), and on how much negative camber best suits you/your driving.

There are several inexpensive DIY methods for measuring camber.


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Yea Norm the S550 platform is restrictive for front camber and for track use at least these cars need camber plates for more neg camber. The rear is fine.
 

Norm Peterson

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Yea Norm the S550 platform is restrictive for front camber and for track use at least these cars need camber plates for more neg camber. The rear is fine.
The thing is, all we really know about OP's driving is that he's NOT planning any track driving. We don't know anything about where his car's cambers are now, nor whether OP has any objection to easily-noticeable amounts of negative camber.


Norm
 
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bluestar

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Thanks for all the informative responses!

I've never done lowering springs before so I'm kind of a newb. As mentioned, the shop stated I wouldn't need camber plates as the drop wasn't extreme. Does this sound accurate? I was also thinking about doing the struts and shocks too. Was specifically looking at the above referenced Steeda's.

In terms of driving, I live in Chicago and the streets are pretty much garbage. Just want it to handle a little batter on the highway. Nothing too crazy. Also want to get rid of the gap between the body and tires.

As it stands right now...I have the RTR Springs and I ordered the BMR Cradle lockout. The install date is in mid August so I have a little time to put everything together.
 

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Norm Peterson

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Thanks for all the informative responses!

I've never done lowering springs before so I'm kind of a newb. As mentioned, the shop stated I wouldn't need camber plates as the drop wasn't extreme. Does this sound accurate? I was also thinking about doing the struts and shocks too. Was specifically looking at the above referenced Steeda's.
What I'll give the shop is that you may not need the plates. But that still depends on whether front cambers that are 0.5° - 0.75° further negative than they are right now will remain suitable for your driving.

Yeah, I suppose it sounds like I'm spending somebody else's money here. But part of what you'd be buying is the ability to easily change the camber settings should you find whatever they get set to on the first go-round isn't entirely suitable.


Norm
 
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bluestar

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What I'll give the shop is that you may not need the plates. But that still depends on whether front cambers that are 0.5° - 0.75° further negative than they are right now will remain suitable for your driving.

Yeah, I suppose it sounds like I'm spending somebody else's money here. But part of what you'd be buying is the ability to easily change the camber settings should you find whatever they get set to on the first go-round isn't entirely suitable.


Norm
Good advice, thank you sir! Also, thoughts on vertical links? Thanks!
 

Norm Peterson

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For the driving you described, vertical links would be a low-priority item at best. They don't have much influence on handling, and there may be something to the notion that leaving a little compliance in the VLs makes "shocking" the tires (under harsh shifts, panic braking, perhaps even ABS interventions) a bit less likely.


Norm
 

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For a drop around 1" that will only be used for daily and occasional spirited driving, if you need any camber adjustment, you can always put in camber bolts which is a much cheaper solution. If dropping much more than 1", or tracking, then definitely get the camber plates.
 
 




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