Anything else I should install while doing new springs/shocks?

[2015Etrac]

Is there anything else I should consider installing while I'm doing this? Something that will be easy to add while in the process of doing the springs/shocks? I have a BMR Cradle Lockout which will be added during the install. I was thinking about new sway bars to replace the stock GT ones, but now sure if I really need them.

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[sigintel]

Brakes?
List exact spring n shocks n consider PM BMR?

 

[2015Etrac]

Brakes?
List exact spring n shocks n consider PM BMR?

I'd like to add Brembo PP brakes up front but that's not in my budget right now. I'm using GT350R springs and Koni Sport shocks.

 

[Dominant1]

Camber plates!

 

[West TX GT]

Might as well do the diff lockout while you are lowering the cradle for the cradle lockout. It will save you from doing the same work later and BMR's new poly kit is down right cheap at 60 bucks.

 

[Bluemustang]

Maybe want to consider a LCA bearing upgrade and Ford Racing toe to knuckle bearing. That should really solidify your rear suspension. In my experience it's added to the "handle like on rails" feeling.

 

[West TX GT]

Maybe want to consider a LCA bearing upgrade and Ford Racing toe to knuckle bearing. That should really solidify your rear suspension. In my experience it's added to the "handle like on rails" feeling.

I agree with this. In my opinon it is the best thing I have done to my car. I didn't suggest it because it is no trivial install (but very doable). I installed the toe links, LCA bearings and diff lockout at the and time I did the springs and dampers. It was like getting a new and much better car.

 

[2015Etrac]

Thank's for the replies. Should I worry about the stock GT sway bars?

 

[BmacIL]

Thank's for the replies. Should I worry about the stock GT sway bars?

IMO, no, although you may want a PP rear to take a small bit of understeer out. The springs you've selected take a ton of roll out of the car.

 

[2015Etrac]

IMO, no, although you may want a PP rear to take a small bit of understeer out. The springs you've selected take a ton of roll out of the car.

Thanks. Good to know. I really don't have the money to be spending on anything that's not necessary.

 

[Burkey]

The diff inserts form Steeda (fro example) require dropping of the subframe. Plenty of other really good bits don't eg. LCA bearings etc.
If you don't like doing things twice, church te diff inserts in while you have the subframe lowered. CB005 also, obviously.
I did the springs first and then added all the rest of the bits. It's ok to do it that way, but double dipping.

 

[PamAndJim]

FWIW, when I did my spring install, I also added Steeda subframe braces (which you have covered with the cradle lock out), Steeda IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, and the Steeda Subframe Alignment kit (they make one specifically for the BMR lockout). The other little parts required almost no extra labor to install.

 

[Jon|3.7]

FWIW, when I did my spring install, I also added Steeda subframe braces (which you have covered with the cradle lock out), Steeda IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, and the Steeda Subframe Alignment kit (they make one specifically for the BMR lockout). The other little parts required almost no extra labor to install.

hey i have all those except steeda braces, and i have the steeda sway bars, could you tell me the function for those braces?

 

[PamAndJim]

hey i have all those except steeda braces, and i have the steeda sway bars, could you tell me the function for those braces?

The braces perform a similar/same function as the BMR cradle lockout. They basically reduce the movement of the subframe to help reduce wheel hop.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-irs-subframe-brace-2015-coupe-555-5754.html

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