Sai Li System Help

[higdominator]

I don't know, I thought I had it fixed yesterday as I pulled the MAK tube then drove for 20 mins trying to get it to knock on tip in and it wouldn't. I did a 2-4 pull WOT and it ran like a monster. Then, shortly after... knock. I've read things like this and how people just give up and pull the car apart and sell, I kind of understand why now.

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/mak-inlet-removed-chopped?log=0&data=7-8-13-14-16

Is the knock generally after a solid pull? What is your PCV setup? Have you thought about 1 more step colder plugs?

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[higdominator]

Also to note: I sent a question to Lund asking about my regulator and boost reference. I got a reply stating to set it at 55psi and RECONNECT my boost reference line.

Just thought I would help make this more confusing.

 

[wireeater]

I don't know, I thought I had it fixed yesterday as I pulled the MAK tube then drove for 20 mins trying to get it to knock on tip in and it wouldn't. I did a 2-4 pull WOT and it ran like a monster. Then, shortly after... knock. I've read things like this and how people just give up and pull the car apart and sell, I kind of understand why now.

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/mak-inlet-removed-chopped?log=0&data=7-8-13-14-16

It's time like these were maybe you take a little hit on your pride and take it to someone to figure out. I' hate not being able to fix something myself but sometimes you just gotta let someone else figure it out. Sometimes we over analyze shit only to find out it was something simple/small. :cheers:

 

[venumous]

Just swapped the plugs to what Lund recommended. NGK6510. I had the PC oil catch setup but took that off and hooked it up like PC install and no change, did that before changing inlet. What is your setup where they told you to hook up boost reference? What blower?

I don't have a pride issue here. The guy I can take it to uses AED so if I wanted to go that route, he would likely want to use Shawn to make sure it isn't the tune. It's on the table.

 

[higdominator]

Just swapped the plugs to what Lund recommended. NGK6510. I had the PC oil catch setup but took that off and hooked it up like PC install and no change, did that before changing inlet. What is your setup where they told you to hook up boost reference? What blower?

I don't have a pride issue here. The guy I can take it to uses AED so if I wanted to go that route, he would likely want to use Shawn to make sure it isn't the tune. It's on the table.

I was just curious to see if it could be the plugs not shedding enough heat after a multi-gear pull to 8K then getting hot and potentially causing some detonation when the pressures went up again.

As far as catch can, I was curious to see if you had one on the setup as you could have potentially drawn in some oil vapor from the hard pull and it dinged your octane a bit shortly thereafter.

It's a stretch but it's just things I evaluate and eliminate as they are relatively simple affairs. You can check the plugs to see how hot they are getting.

My setup is a Paxton on 3.48 and E85. I'm running GT350 pumps and a F.A.S.T regulator. Basically identical to the Sai Li kit, I just sourced my own parts and DIY (Saved about $300 and got my preferred hose/fittings/regulator)

 

[dubster99]

So the car doesn't see knock when you do a single gear WOT pull, only knock on gear change and throttle tip in?

 

[venumous]

So the car doesn't see knock when you do a single gear WOT pull, only knock on gear change and throttle tip in?

Yes and no. Sometimes it will knock instantly on WOT tip in in 3rd and others no. Same with 4th.

 

[venumous]

Anyone know what this plug is just to the right of the stock intake box? Mine looks cut, just wondering if it was always that way or if that was somehow done when they did fuel system? I'm thinking of pulling the pump out, hooking up BAP and testing old tune.

http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/2014/...he-2015-ford-mustang-gt-engine-bay-in-detail/

 

[higdominator]

Anyone know what this plug is just to the right of the stock intake box? Mine looks cut, just wondering if it was always that way or if that was somehow done when they did fuel system? I'm thinking of pulling the pump out, hooking up BAP and testing old tune.

http://mustangsdaily.com/blog/2014/...he-2015-ford-mustang-gt-engine-bay-in-detail/

I believe my car has that dead end plug as well. It was that way from the factory.

Have you logged OSS and compared it to RPM to see if there is any clutch slip/chatter that coincides with the knock event?

 

[venumous]

Ok good deal, looked like a chop job. I'm going to log 5th gear later to do that. Lund says it has to be 1:1 gear.

 

[higdominator]

I see it in the previous log, forgot to look at the bottom and select the parameters I wanted, lol. When you had the big 5KR event, right prior to it the OSS got a little ugly compared to RPM (and compared to the previous multi-gear pull). That very well could be your cause.

 

[venumous]

I see it in the previous log, forgot to look at the bottom and select the parameters I wanted, lol. When you had the big 5KR event, right prior to it the OSS got a little ugly compared to RPM (and compared to the previous multi-gear pull). That very well could be your cause.

Do you see it in the other knock events around the +5?

What about here?

http://www.datazap.me/u/venumous/50...og=0&data=7-16&trim=0&tmin=132.98&tmax=147.00

 

[higdominator]

In the log you just posted there is the same thing in the OSS right before the 7KR event. Select RPM, KR, and OSS, slick on the green KR line to enlarge it and you can see the OSS go funky at the top of the gear. It also appears to be when you let off the throttle. I'm at work so I'm not looking too closely, but it's something to look at a little closer for sure.

 

[smokinzx14r]

Just swapped the plugs to what Lund recommended. NGK6510. I had the PC oil catch setup but took that off and hooked it up like PC install and no change, did that before changing inlet. What is your setup where they told you to hook up boost reference? What blower?

I don't have a pride issue here. The guy I can take it to uses AED so if I wanted to go that route, he would likely want to use Shawn to make sure it isn't the tune. It's on the table.

NGK6510 is what I use , I have 5000 miles on them and no problems ..I also have no catch can ( never had one ) and zero problems ...You guys keep saying GT350 pumps ? My Sai Li kit has GT500 pumps , is there a difference ?

One thing I have read over and over is problems with email tunes , I'm sure you have read that also ..The tuner in most cases say the tune is spot on and it's your install or your car has a problem or bad fuel .. I got sick of hearing that and had mine done on a dyno with the tuner .. The tuner also offered to come to the track to see the car run and log the runs and make any adjustments if needed at no extra cost .. I never had to do that because the car ran so good after his dyno tune ..

My point is the procharger is a very good unit and I'm sure your install is just fine .. You have all the parts to make it run like a raped ape ...The only thing you don't have is a good face to face dyno tune .. You clearly have a problem and sending logs to (MR blank) are getting you nothing ...:frusty: I have also spent 500 bucks with (MR blank) so I have 500 reasons for posting about shit email tunes ..

 

[venumous]

I agree with you. I am taking the car to the localish dyno on the 5th to be tuned by Shaun @ AED. Then I can at least say that it is definitely not in the tune, however possible that may be. I'm going to try to do some other things in the mean time. I plan to hook up the stock pump and disconnect from the return line and test the old tune with the BAP while I have time this weekend. Shouldn't take more than 30 mins to get that good to go.

I believe the GT350/500 pumps are indeed the same.

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