Safe to drive with busted strut tower brace stud?

[Anyone3505]

I've had my 2020 GT convertible for almost 2 months and realized i'd never actually seen the engine because of the stupid engine cover. THis evening I unbolted the brace bar, ripped out the cover, and then busted a stud re-attaching the brace bar. Probably read all the threads and posts about that- not sure if i should be happy that I'm not the first (or 1000th) person to do this, or pissed at Ford- but repair is likely beyond my expertise and/or desire.

What's the risk of sheering off the remaining stud on that side if I keep driving the car? I know the brace isn't critical to vehicle safety, but I don't want to cause more damage. Ideally I'd drive it for a few more months until I need an oil change to take it to a dealer (I get a few oil changes for free) and have them look at it. If they want to replace that entire top/cap piece (to which the stud is welded) then I'll look for an indy shop willing to do actual work.

I don't drive every day and can take a different vehicle if needed. Just want to know what to expect.

Also, is there a way to take the brace off without removing the positive battery cable? I'm hoping to get another 4 or 6 weeks with the car before the weather turns, and figure I could drive without the brace for a bit.

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[17MagMetal]

Yes.

The brace is just an added brace you’re good to go.

Are you a victim of the suspiciously high torque spec on those nuts? I just hit it with hand tight and a little shove with a 1/2 ratchet and call it lol.

 

[Anyone3505]

Yes.

The brace is just an added brace you’re good to go.

Are you a victim of the suspiciously high torque spec on those nuts? I just hit it with hand tight and a little shove with a 1/2 ratchet and call it lol.

My harbor freight torque wrench never clicked for either of those nuts. The driver's side torqued right up to 40. I should have done 30 lol.

 

[17MagMetal]

My harbor freight torque wrench never clicked for either of those nuts. The driver's side torqued right up to 40. I should have done 30 lol.

Yeah, i’ve had a hard time with a HF wrench and a Snap On digital wrench. Those studs are definitely not happy being cranked on multiple times.

All non-essential, stationary component hardware gets hand tight and a little push from me.

There’s DIYs for replacing the stud. I think the worst part is dropping the fender liner, but you could probably put it back relatively quickly.

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

I hate those nylock nuts.. can never tell how tight you're gettin em. I can see why people break these.

 

[Anyone3505]

So there's little risk of breaking the other stud on that side if i continue driving it? I assumed the brace added lateral rigidity and would put pressure on the remaining stud.

 

[Wolfys11]

So there's little risk of breaking the other stud on that side if i continue driving it? I assumed the brace added lateral rigidity and would put pressure on the remaining stud.

I would say it will be fine.
Maybe if you hard tracked the car, its possible to move it and shear the other stud but shesr strength on these studs are what they are made to handle, its probably near impossible to hit it hard enough to flex the chassis enough to shear that stud

Id run it

I had a huge huge pothole that bent my frame a 1/2” almost, i installed this bar afterwards and it almost wouldnt go on, i bend the frame back a bit to force it on and it never gave me issues with that force on it so I can safely say youll be fine brother

 

[GTP]

If you search the site you will find threads on this.

You can DIY repair it yourself because it is not hard to tap out the broken stud and put in something equivalent from the HW store. Of course you will have to slowly lower the strut out of the tower hole with a floor jack.

 

[robvas]

So there's little risk of breaking the other stud on that side if i continue driving it? I assumed the brace added lateral rigidity and would put pressure on the remaining stud.

Hoon around a parking lot a bit and see if the stud breaks and that should prove if it does or not

 

[Anyone3505]

All good. Drilled out the stud, then threaded the hole so the replacement bolt won't fall out. Will no longer be torquing the nuts down and will be re-using the same lock nuts. hand tight is good enough. I don't understand why we care about that. The studs provide mostly lateral support anyway. and with how often the brace needs to be removed for general maintenance tasks- even once a year or 2- I won't be worried about them loosening up.

Do you really think dealerships replace all 4 lock nuts every time they remove the brace?

 

[MustangNoob]

All good. Drilled out the stud, then threaded the hole so the replacement bolt won't fall out. Will no longer be torquing the nuts down and will be re-using the same lock nuts. hand tight is good enough. I don't understand why we care about that. The studs provide mostly lateral support anyway. and with how often the brace needs to be removed for general maintenance tasks- even once a year or 2- I won't be worried about them loosening up.

Do you really think dealerships replace all 4 lock nuts every time they remove the brace?

Hey do you mind providing details on how you fixed it?
* Did you progressively drilled it out ?
* What size of drill did you use?
* Can't the stud be hammered out?
* Type of bolt , how you mounted it / hold it underneath.
* What will happen if you remove the nut , will it drop ? How does it hold etc..

I go the same issue with my s650 recently. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/how-to-fix-snapped-stud-in-strut-tower.167829/#post-3370585

Thank you

 

[robvas]

Strut towers will collapse inward the first time you take a turn, sending you flying off the road. Park it.

 

[DougS550]

I've had my 2020 GT convertible for almost 2 months and realized i'd never actually seen the engine because of the stupid engine cover. THis evening I unbolted the brace bar, ripped out the cover, and then busted a stud re-attaching the brace bar. Probably read all the threads and posts about that- not sure if i should be happy that I'm not the first (or 1000th) person to do this, or pissed at Ford- but repair is likely beyond my expertise and/or desire.

What's the risk of sheering off the remaining stud on that side if I keep driving the car? I know the brace isn't critical to vehicle safety, but I don't want to cause more damage. Ideally I'd drive it for a few more months until I need an oil change to take it to a dealer (I get a few oil changes for free) and have them look at it. If they want to replace that entire top/cap piece (to which the stud is welded) then I'll look for an indy shop willing to do actual work.

I don't drive every day and can take a different vehicle if needed. Just want to know what to expect.

Also, is there a way to take the brace off without removing the positive battery cable? I'm hoping to get another 4 or 6 weeks with the car before the weather turns, and figure I could drive without the brace for a bit.

Totally Safe. The two studs are only for the Strut Tower brace. When You have time, replace the two studs with a Press in Studs, stronger ones.

 

[MustangNoob]

Totally Safe. The two studs are only for the Strut Tower brace. When You have time, replace the two studs with a Press in Studs, stronger ones.

I have seen in another post the original stud is welded (?). Someone hammered it out, but hammering might induced any bending in the surrounding area...

 

[DougS550]

I have seen in another post the original stud is welded (?). Someone hammered it out, but hammering might induced any bending in the surrounding area...

Then use a Dremel cutoff disc or Gride it out from underneath and it wont take much to punch out. I wouldn't hammer hard with a 2lbs hammer that's for sure, to thin of metal in the strut tower rim.

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