Roush Stage II installation

[JK XLR8]

Yeah, it's more like you gonna lose the engine and 100% of hp if you keep pushing it under boost while overheated

True with any car.....never said anything about pushing it while it was overheating though, I was referring to the heat soak in the sc.

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[jon.smith76063]

Roush addressed the cooling issue in the 20+ RS3's. They added a bigger radiator, secondary heat exchanger cooler, engine oil cooler, trans cooler, and a rear diff cooler. They can be purchased from Roush as a kit but it's not cheap. If you are tracking your car a lot I would go with a centri type or better yet turbos.

 

[tosha]

True with any car.....never said anything about pushing it while it was overheating though, I was referring to the heat soak in the sc.

No, that's not really what I meant. It's true with most cars that were designed and started as NA and then got forced induction added without changing any internals. You may want to start with these posts and take it from there, these threads explain what is happening with stock rings:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/knock-at-10-and-light-throttle-uh-oh.90251/post-2165426
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mixed-info-about-coyote-hp-limit.100124/post-2185164

You don't need to overheat entire system to blow up the engine and doing multiple very long pulls is a row is completely possible on many tracks.

 

[JK XLR8]

No, that's not really what I meant. It's true with most cars that were designed and started as NA and then got forced induction added without changing any internals. You may want to start with these posts and take it from there, these threads explain what is happening with stock rings:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/knock-at-10-and-light-throttle-uh-oh.90251/post-2165426
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mixed-info-about-coyote-hp-limit.100124/post-2185164

You don't need to overheat entire system to blow up the engine and doing multiple very long pulls is a row is completely possible on many tracks.

Got it, thanks for the mechanical breakdown. I'll take it easy on mine from now on!!

 

[hlfbkd420]

Second post in that thread is pretty clear. A couple of WOT pulls and you’re done for a while. Adding heat from being on track for 20 minutes isn't going to help.

Edit to add: to be clear, I’m not suggesting one system over another. I wouldn’t take my Whipple car on a road race track and expect it to give me full power for 20 minutes either.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...y-have-the-the-roush-kit.127474/#post-2640169

That post is also about the P1 kit and tune. Shortly after that thread was started (and about 300 pages later) Roush released the P2 upgrade. An upgraded LTR and a few tune revisions later and it handles heat *MUCH* better than the P2. Granted. I live in AZ so 115 degree temps affect about all cars here in the summer. Especially at the strip or a track.

Roush addressed the cooling issue in the 20+ RS3's. They added a bigger radiator, secondary heat exchanger cooler, engine oil cooler, trans cooler, and a rear diff cooler. They can be purchased from Roush as a kit but it's not cheap. If you are tracking your car a lot I would go with a centri type or better yet turbos.

I'm very curious how this helps with the heat soak. I can definitely feel when the power is down in the summer. Mainly after the 1/8th mile at the strip. Not sure if it would help much in my case.

I know this thread is about road racing so I can't offer any input there. I do know that the kit is awesome with proper tires and cooler weather. Ran a 10.8 @ 130 the other night on 20" drag radials and took multiple back to back runs. Make sure get some good rubber! Street tires suck.

 

[hlfbkd420]

No, that's not really what I meant. It's true with most cars that were designed and started as NA and then got forced induction added without changing any internals. You may want to start with these posts and take it from there, these threads explain what is happening with stock rings:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/knock-at-10-and-light-throttle-uh-oh.90251/post-2165426
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mixed-info-about-coyote-hp-limit.100124/post-2185164

You don't need to overheat entire system to blow up the engine and doing multiple very long pulls is a row is completely possible on many tracks.

Well.. This makes me rethink taking my car down to the air strip for some 1/2 mile runs.. I think I'm skipping that now.

 

[trackd]

No, that's not really what I meant. It's true with most cars that were designed and started as NA and then got forced induction added without changing any internals. You may want to start with these posts and take it from there, these threads explain what is happening with stock rings:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/knock-at-10-and-light-throttle-uh-oh.90251/post-2165426
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mixed-info-about-coyote-hp-limit.100124/post-2185164

You don't need to overheat entire system to blow up the engine and doing multiple very long pulls is a row is completely possible on many tracks.

About these potential mech issues I wonder how much Roush spent on the development of these kits for reliable road course lapping, not just drags. It’s a somewhat ‘safe’ tune I believe, hence the warranty.

I’m going to talk to a reputable Ford installer about these concerns. Bottom line is, at this point I need a CARB legal package without too many driveability issues.

 

[trackd]

That post is also about the P1 kit and tune. Shortly after that thread was started (and about 300 pages later) Roush released the P2 upgrade. An upgraded LTR and a few tune revisions later and it handles heat *MUCH* better than the P2. Granted. I live in AZ so 115 degree temps affect about all cars here in the summer. Especially at the strip or a track.

I’m really hoping these upgrades help quite a bit in the current version. Again, will discuss with the techs. Thx

 

[tosha]

I’m really hoping these upgrades help quite a bit in the current version. Again, will discuss with the techs. Thx

Please circle back to this thread, I'm very interested to hear what they say as well.

As far as ring gaps and potential issues, I am no mechanical expert and what they discuss in these links just makes sense to me. I guess there are reasons why Predator is so much more expensive while providing very similar power output, but I still really enjoy what a supercharged Coyote can give.

 

[tosha]

About these potential mech issues I wonder how much Roush spent on the development of these kits for reliable road course lapping, not just drags. It’s a somewhat ‘safe’ tune I believe, hence the warranty.

I’m going to talk to a reputable Ford installer about these concerns. Bottom line is, at this point I need a CARB legal package without too many driveability issues.

I guess, just don't pull too hard in long straights and closely monitor CHT's an Maybe it's just my impression, but you mind seems to be set on it. I wanted to add that despite all of these concerns, I truly enjoy having Roush Stage 2 on my car and I'm totally blown away by how great it is as far as drivability at this power level.

 

[hlfbkd420]

Yeah. I agree with that and I live in the hottest state in the nation. The Roush P2 is a hell of a kit and I have had it on two 2018+ cars. This will be last "sports" car I own for awhile so I plan to push it to it's limits. It is not the same kit it was when it was released. If I was to do it all over again? I may go with a centri for shits and giggle's but there aren't too many cars at the strip that beat me.

 

[hossman]

The early Roush Phase 1 kits with the smaller LTR and calibration had heat issues for sure and a lot of critics still say this even though the larger LTR and revised calibration have really improved the heat soak issues and throttle body closing and reducing power around 120 degree IAT2. It is one of the most durable and reliable set ups if your staying on pump gas and the warranty is a plus for sure. Now this is not the setup if your looking to make big boy hp which isn’t really usable on the street. I ran 10.78 @ 136 and 10.85 @ 135 on 93 octane on a drag radial on the Roush tune which is pretty impressive. With a quality custom tune and Boostane or other reputable octane booster this will probably run low 10’s at around 140.

 

[jon.smith76063]

That post is also about the P1 kit and tune. Shortly after that thread was started (and about 300 pages later) Roush released the P2 upgrade. An upgraded LTR and a few tune revisions later and it handles heat *MUCH* better than the P2. Granted. I live in AZ so 115 degree temps affect about all cars here in the summer. Especially at the strip or a track.



I'm very curious how this helps with the heat soak. I can definitely feel when the power is down in the summer. Mainly after the 1/8th mile at the strip. Not sure if it would help much in my case.

I know this thread is about road racing so I can't offer any input there. I do know that the kit is awesome with proper tires and cooler weather. Ran a 10.8 @ 130 the other night on 20" drag radials and took multiple back to back runs. Make sure get some good rubber! Street tires suck.

I have a 20 Stage 3 and i see little to no hear soak on the street, stirp or road course. They really went over the too with the engineering of the current stage 3’s.

 

[hossman]

I have a 20 Stage 3 and i see little to no hear soak on the street, stirp or road course. They really went over the too with the engineering of the current stage 3’s.

I have a 19 Roush Stage 3 and would’ve loved to have the powertrain cooling package they rolled out on the 2020 so thanks for your real world feedback. Definitely helpful for guys exploring adding the Powertrain Cooling Package. It’s probably around a $3200 cost for parts and labor to get that installed so that’s definitely a consideration. What color RS3 do you have?

 

[tosha]

Are you guys referring to this one?
https://www.roushperformance.com/pa...1-roush-supercharged-max-cooling-upgrade.html

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