Brian@BMVK
Well-Known Member
Only on the inside point. All GTs regardless of PP have the pp toe link. This bearing fits in the knuckle as mentioned above.
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fatbillybob
Well-Known Member
The word salad confuses me. These dorky multi-link suspensions have a 100 parts with weird names. The unequal length A-arm design is so much better and makes so much more sense. Then people call different arms different things and makes matters worse. I need a diagram of the front and rear with every part labeled.
Brian@BMVK
Well-Known Member
There is only one link that is a toe adjustment link: the most forward and lower one. It has the eccentric bolt on the inside as built. Even double wishbone setups have toe links.
Burkey
Well-Known Member
Hopefully you’re able to read the descriptions.
Personally I prefer camber arm over lateral link and vertical link over integral link.
Note where the toe link attaches to the knuckle (outside end). Regardless of spec, this point is a rubber bush From the factory. This is where we fit the FR Toe/knuckle bearing.
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Norm Peterson
corner barstool sitter
I'd give you "camber link" but not "camber arm". A link is geometrically free to rotate in off-axis directions where an arm is not.
If your "camber arm" was really an arm, there would be no need for the vertical link (or integral link, I don't much care which) because the now upper arm would be able to resist fore-aft movement of the knuckle at its attachment. Of course then the suspension would be called a short-long arm suspension . . .
Picky? Probably. But that's how confusion can be at least minimized.
Norm
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Burkey
Well-Known Member
Ok. However, strictly speaking, the camber link itself (arm?) isn‘t designed to allow off-axis rotation (Eg, at the subframe end, any off-axis rotation that does occur is purely the result of bushing deflection.) Ergo, the camber links are in fact generally marketed as camber arms...I'd give you "camber link" but not "camber arm". A link is geometrically free to rotate in off-axis directions where an arm is not.
If your "camber arm" was really an arm, there would be no need for the vertical link (or integral link, I don't much care which) because the now upper arm would be able to resist fore-aft movement of the knuckle at its attachment. Of course then the suspension would be called a short-long arm suspension . . .
Picky? Probably. But that's how confusion can be at least minimized.
Norm
Semantics.
The reality is that the camber arm/link operates exactly like an arm, until you bolt the knuckle to it. The camber arm itself moves in a prescribed arc and there is no intended off-axis rotation of the arm itself.
If we were to apply the same logic to the lower control arm, which acts in the same way at the subframe end of the equation as the camber arm does, but also allows the knuckle to move off-axis via the simple fact that there is only one point of connection via a spherical bearing, it also would have to be considered to be a link rather than an arm because it allows off-axis rotation of the knuckle also.
Food for thought.
TeeLew
Well-Known Member
To get back to the original topic, I've now driven on SuperPro poly bushings for 4 hours on the street and 2 days of autocross runs. I know this isn't as good as having sphericals, but it's a hell of a lot better than stock. This is a no-brainer. Yes, there are theoretical stiction/bind issues, but I didn't feel any of it (maybe I would if I had spherical experience to compare?). On the street, I feel no additional NVH and when pushing, it's definitely more composed. All in all, I think these bushings are probably 75% of the performance of a spherical and if it keeps you legal in whatever class you're running or keeps you happy on the street I just don't know why you wouldn't do it.
Burkey
Well-Known Member
Out of interest, how many miles would you typically expect to get out of the spherical RLCA bearings before they become an issue? I have a feeling one of mine might be giving up at 15,000 miles.
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TeeLew
Well-Known Member
We'll see what Brian says, but I think it's going to related to the environment they're run in. 15k miles seems like a pretty good number of miles to me. Consider the life when they're used in racing, 5k miles is about the limit. You'll be putting less stress on it, but a similar number of up/down cycles. You need to pop it out and give it a wiggle to see if it still feels good.
NGOT8R
Well-Known Member
That’s a very good question. I wonder If the road grime needs to be cleaned from them on occasion and/or the bolt torque checked as well? Were you able to actually torque them to spec? I had to use a 3/4” monster torque wrench to torque mine. I have also read that some people just get them good-n-tight. I hope I get plenty of miles out of mine before they need attention.
TeeLew
Well-Known Member
I don't have a lift, so there's no way I can torque mine. I would definitely clean them if you could from time to time. You're not suppose to use an oil lube, which actually attracts dirt, but once it was cleaned up (with, say, brake cleaner), you can shoot it with some moly/graphite dry lube to help keep it free. If you can wiggle it and feel axial motion, that's a problem. If you can hear clicks, it's dead.
Brian@BMVK
Well-Known Member
Bogey is probably about right. I think my BK055 may be making noise but I need to check. It's not an easy thing to inspect. I will almost certainly replace with the Superpro bushing or similar to make the car a little more comfortable. Sharp impacts are definitely felt more with the bearings.
Burkey
Well-Known Member
I’m thinking along the same lines. I love the way the car feels on the bearings, but if they’re going to need replacing at that frequency I’ll opt for the poly bush next time around. Not having to remove the RLCA‘s every couple of years has a certain appeal.
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