Replacement battery suggestions?

txpat3

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Looks like I may be in need of a new battery for my 2019 GT. Stuttered on cold start yesterday. I let it idle and went to my destination. Two hours later I'm ready to head home and car dies upon startup. I was able to start it after that, but voltage dipped further to 14.1 volts. Was back up to 14.5 volts by the time I got home. Haven't started it today, but would rather replace the battery than get stuck somewhere or need a jump while out and about. Is the consensus here that my battery is on the outs? If so, what are some good replacement battery suggestions? I don't need anything special, just a good quality battery for a decent price. Thanks!





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Elp_jc

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Get a 96R AGM, which is the OEM size. I just replaced it on my 2019 Bullitt too (sat too long at dealer). I got it at Advanced Auto. The only other I found is an Odyssey, but it's more expensive, and 10 lbs heavier. Your call. Hope this helps.
 

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I'm not sure those symptoms are the battery. If it's turning over then stuttering or dying the battery already did it's job, and something else isn't right. While it's not impossible especially if it sat on the dealer lot, a 2019 shouldn't be dying already. I still have the factory battery on my 2016.

If you do find it's the battery, Costco and Sam's Club are good options if you're a member. The 96R our cars use aren't cheap, and Costco's Interstate is $97; the Duracell at Sam's is $100. Any lead-acid from the big-name auto parts stores are probably going to be $130-150. The other poster mentioned AGM, but the one referenced from Advanced is $200. Are the benefits of AGM worth twice the price to you?
 
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txpat3

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Appreciate the replies about replacement options!

Any thoughts on a separate diagnosis if the battery tests fine? No changes to the car since I put on the cai and tuned it 4 weeks ago.
 

Elp_jc

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I admit not reading your post, since the title was straight to the point. Sorry :D. But after seeing the above responses, I agree it's not the battery man. Or it could be by now, but that's not the root cause of your problem indeed. I'd immediately suspect the tune. If you're getting 14.xx volts, your charging system is functioning properly. Talk to your tuner; something went wrong there. You should post who it is too, for better feedback. And also ask a moderator to change your title for something more appropriate :). Good luck.
 
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txpat3

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It's a Lund tune that should be pretty basic. My car just has exhaust and a cai. Maybe I should do some datalogging.
 
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txpat3

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Just went out to start the car for the first time today and it promptly fired up. Pre-ignition voltage was 12.5, then crept up to 14.1, before resting at 14.5 at operating temp. I suppose I'll hold off on an expensive battery replacement for now. I'll keep an eye out for any stuttering or stalling issues, but hopefully yesterday was just a fluke. If it happens again I'll be more concerned and will definitely reach out to Lund.
 

Torched10

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Just went out to start the car for the first time today and it promptly fired up. Pre-ignition voltage was 12.5, then crept up to 14.1, before resting at 14.5 at operating temp. I suppose I'll hold off on an expensive battery replacement for now. I'll keep an eye out for any stuttering or stalling issues, but hopefully yesterday was just a fluke. If it happens again I'll be more concerned and will definitely reach out to Lund.
Auto zone will load test battery for free.agree with others.seems its not battery
 

DickR

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Just went out to start the car for the first time today and it promptly fired up. Pre-ignition voltage was 12.5, then crept up to 14.1, before resting at 14.5 at operating temp. I suppose I'll hold off on an expensive battery replacement for now. I'll keep an eye out for any stuttering or stalling issues, but hopefully yesterday was just a fluke. If it happens again I'll be more concerned and will definitely reach out to Lund.
I've owned a 2015 GT which was traded on my current 2018 GT. Your instrument panel voltage readings look normal to me for these cars. In fact after a few days of not being run the instrument panel voltage prior to starting for the first time may be slightly below 12 volts even though a good voltmeter at the battery would read slightly over 12.0 volts. Remember these are 12 volt batteries so the voltage will drop to around 12 volts when the engine hasn't been running for a few hours. The higher 14 volt readings at the instrument panel are because the alternator output voltage is higher than 12 volts. The charging voltage fluctuates thanks to modern voltage regulation, etc. which can control the voltage to maximize battery life.

FYI I haven't checked but I would guess that the battery and charging system are covered by at least the 36 month warranty..
 

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