Replaced Voodoo Engine

[Creedog]

Anyone know or aware of those with blown engines which had piston slap issues before the engine went down? I do not see this concern listed on the sheet. Or how many of them were tracked or modified and if so to what degree?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OAo0VezzcZEOoaKeS1SyE15uS8osi0zJ_mOuxQSaATw

 

[stanglife]

Every coyote, boss and voodoo motor that I've heard has some degree of piston slap. The only time it's a concern is if it doesn't completely (or almost completely) go away after you get some heat in the engine.

 

[Creedog]

Yes mine has the cold hard piston slap until oil temp reaches approx 200 degrees then it decreases dramatically. I do not go hard (keep it below 3k rpms) at all until reaches this temp range. Just wondering if this was a known precursor to failed engines.

I plan on purchasing an extended warranty coverage plan very soon for the powertrain (mostly for the engine and transmission).

 

[johnny1]

A lot of performance cars have piston slap and I've never read where it interfered with longevity of engine what so ever. My 2005 GTO had it from day one and still had it the same when I traded it years later. Car never used a drop of oil. I just didn't accelerate fast on a cold engine and it went away after about a block even in cold weather.

 

[MulhollandMonster]

Anyone know or aware of those with blown engines which had piston slap issues before the engine went down? I do not see this concern listed on the sheet. Or how many of them were tracked or modified and if so to what degree?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OAo0VezzcZEOoaKeS1SyE15uS8osi0zJ_mOuxQSaATw

No relationship.

 

[stanglife]

Yes mine has the cold hard piston slap until oil temp reaches approx 200 degrees then it decreases dramatically. I do not go hard (keep it below 3k rpms) at all until reaches this temp range. Just wondering if this was a known precursor to failed engines.

I plan on purchasing an extended warranty coverage plan very soon for the powertrain (mostly for the engine and transmission).

It's the heat generated by combustion that heats and expands the piston. I've been doing this trick for a while. Wait until the engine is up to say 160-180 and then start putting the engine under medium load as you go through every gear. Will get the heat into the piston a bit faster and you'll notice that the sound goes away sooner.

 

[300blackout]

It's the heat generated by combustion that heats and expands the piston. I've been doing this trick for a while. Wait until the engine is up to say 160-180 and then start putting the engine under medium load when shifting every gear. Will get the heat into the piston a bit faster and you'll notice that the sound goes away sooner.

Perhaps this motor is intended to be driven hard and Ford engineered in extra clearance.

Anyhow, since the oil pan is composite material a regular block heater wouldn't work. Perhaps a dipstick oil warmer will help get the oil/engine up to temps faster?

 

[stanglife]

Perhaps this motor is intended to be driven hard and Ford engineered in extra clearance.

Anyhow, since the oil pan is composite material a regular block heater wouldn't work. Perhaps a dipstick oil warmer will help get the oil/engine up to temps faster?

I'm sure that is the case. Most performance engines have short piston skirts which is partially why they rock a bit when cold.

There's no amount of external warming that would get them up to temp faster. One trick that people do on street cars (and I understand why with this car, as it takes a long time to get the oil up to temp) is to partially block the oil cooler.

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

I'm sure that is the case. Most performance engines have short piston skirts which is partially why they rock a bit when cold.

There's no amount of external warming that would get them up to temp faster. One trick that people do on street cars (and I understand why with this car, as it takes a long time to get the oil up to temp) is to partially block the oil cooler.

Does it take yours a long time to get up to temp though? I've actually always thought the opposite. Maybe it just perspective, but after I've driven for less than 10 mins the oil is up to 65-75 degrees C* (88*C FYI is when redline is allowed to reach 8250 over the initial 8000 rpm ceiling). I've always thought that this was warming up quite fast?

I know that with my CLA45, oil temp. didn't turn from blue to white (ok to use race start) until it hit 85 degrees C*, but it would sometimes take a half hour to reach that. On cooler days it sometimes never reached that unless you actively tried putting some medium load on the engine and getting it working.

 

[MrCincinnati]

Does it take yours a long time to get up to temp though? I've actually always thought the opposite. Maybe it just perspective, but after I've driven for less than 10 mins the oil is up to 65-75 degrees C* (88*C FYI is when redline is allowed to reach 8250 over the initial 8000 rpm ceiling). I've always thought that this was warming up quite fast?

I know that with my CLA45, oil temp. didn't turn from blue to white (ok to use race start) until it hit 85 degrees C*, but it would sometimes take a half hour to reach that. On cooler days it sometimes never reached that unless you actively tried putting some medium load on the engine and getting it working.

in cooler temps mine won't warm up to 180f unless I leave it in lower gears on the highway.

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

in cooler temps mine won't warm up to 180f unless I leave it in lower gears on the highway.

Interesting. What do you consider cooler temps? The coldest I'll take mine out is around 8-9 degrees C* which is pretty normal for beginning of spring here. Working away I don't get a lot of time home per summer (less than 8 weeks) so I have to use it soon as the summer tires allow it haha

But even in those temps, its no sweat to stay above 80*C, or a couple degrees below the 8250 redline temperature (88 C*). My oil pressure at idle is also around 2 Bar, maybe a hair over, so essentially 30psi. Thought someone mentioned on here that idle oil pressure should be close to 50psi? My car rarely ever gets over 102-103 C* either even when it reaches 30 C* outside.

 

[MrCincinnati]

Interesting. What do you consider cooler temps? The coldest I'll take mine out is around 8-9 degrees C* which is pretty normal for beginning of spring here. Working away I don't get a lot of time home per summer (less than 8 weeks) so I have to use it soon as the summer tires allow it haha

But even in those temps, its no sweat to stay above 80*C, or a couple degrees below the 8250 redline temperature (88 C*). My oil pressure at idle is also around 2 Bar, maybe a hair over, so essentially 30psi. Thought someone mentioned on here that idle oil pressure should be close to 50psi? My car rarely ever gets over 102-103 C* either even when it reaches 30 C* outside.

Around 4c or so. The oil coolers work really well in hot weather, I've found - so in cooler weather even more so. In fact - I've had the temps go above 180 during my warmup routine in cool temps (leave it in 5th on the highway cruising @ around 70-75mph) then cool back down below 180 not long after I get back to 6th or stay at constant, but lower speeds in the town.

 

[Ronp]

Would you please provide a little detail.

model year
Build date
Engine builders
Problems: ie..loss of oil pressure, high oil consumption, seized motor, etc.
Resolution provided by Ford?

2018
not sure how to find build date
not sharing names of engine builders
On a Sunday afternoon drive with the oil level normal, no loss of pressure, excess oil temp or anything else out of the normal, engine starting a light ticking noise at 45 mph in 5th gear and gradually started to get louder. Check engine light came on. Stopped driving it within 5 miles, called roadside assistance, and it was towed straight to Ford. On Monday Ford found a lot of metal in the oil and authorized a new engine immediately. New engine arrived Wednesday and I had the car back on Friday. 6 day turnaround on a engine replacement and car has been fine in the 600 miles put on it since. The original engine did not burn any oil.

 

[CANTWN4LSN]

2018
not sure how to find build date
not sharing names of engine builders
On a Sunday afternoon drive with the oil level normal, no loss of pressure, excess oil temp or anything else out of the normal, engine starting a light ticking noise at 45 mph in 5th gear and gradually started to get louder. Check engine light came on. Stopped driving it within 5 miles, called roadside assistance, and it was towed straight to Ford. On Monday Ford found a lot of metal in the oil and authorized a new engine immediately. New engine arrived Wednesday and I had the car back on Friday. 6 day turnaround on a engine replacement and car has been fine in the 600 miles put on it since. The original engine did not burn any oil.

So much for Ford figuring why this is occurring and fixing it at the production level. You would think if it were a defectively produced part that would have been nailed down from all the pre-2018 failures but doesn't appear so as this story is the feared one, not the maybe didn't check the oil level often enough.

 

[Caballus]

Wonder if this has anything to do with why 2019 GT350 availabilty dates haven't been announced...