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BVLCK_S550

BVLCK_S550

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Bluemustang

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It's massive. I prefer to set the ride/roll rates where I want them and get balance with alignment/rides/damping. Make the front spring stiff enough to support brake dive and turn-in support The rear spring needs to be as soft as you can for traction, but as stiff as you need to keep the total rear travel window within reason. The big squat is great for traction, but it takes a lot of patience to drive correctly. Many people won't care for it.

I run the front bar as big as I can, specifically because it helps exit traction. The rear I add for balance until it hurts traction. My go-to bar right now is off of a V6 and it measures 20mm. Keep in mind, at times, adding rear bar will improve traction because you will have arrived to the apex having done more total turning and with a better angle. If your hands are straighter, the rear can hook up better, even if it's taking more of the roll couple. A lot of times it's not how the statics of the equation work out in a steady-state scenario, but how all of the items work together through the transients.

The easiest way to improve the balance of a nose-heavy, understeering car is to get weight off the nose. Shifting the battery to the trunk is a no-brainer. Anything you can do to shift the weight distribution to the rear will be a benefit and you don't have to compromise any springs/bars/alignment. Don't sleep on this tool.
This is very interesting stuff! You set the Mustang up almost completely different from other people I've heard from. Can you explain in a little more detail how the big front bar helps exits traction? I'd love to hear more about your theories.
 
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BVLCK_S550

BVLCK_S550

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I want to again thank everyone for the information provided to me throughout this thread! Me and a buddy of mine got everything installed this weekend and should hopefully be getting an alignment installed sometime later this week.

 

TRDFurgesson

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This was very helpful. So basically you can just bolt one side of the endlink the strut, lower the car, and then adjust/ bolt the other side of the endlike to the actual sway bar.
I built stands for alignments and worked well for adjusting Steeda's end links

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